Showing posts with label Camino 2008. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Camino 2008. Show all posts
Thursday, June 26, 2008
Sunday, June 22, 2008
Day 31 Portomarin 23.7km and lots more
Days 31-35 are from memory and a few notes written a month later. Feelings come up just sitting at the computer remembering the wonderful time and opportunity that I have had. I have done so much cool stuff in my life but this one has been so special. It is not for everyone but for me it a kind of retreat - better than sitting still or meditating in a cave! It suited me exercise, people, food, wine,nature, alone but not alone. Of course all vacations are relaxing and enjoyable from the point of view that they escape the everyday concerns of life - no phone, no bills, no obligations, etc. Rather a self-centred, self indulgent enterprise this travelling. Where do I want to eat? What do I want to do? Enjoy the sun (or the weather). Mind you sometimes quite a bit of physical exertion (which I love) and the relaxation that ensues from it all. So it suited me in all respects. Sleeping in dorms etc are never a concern - I sleep reasonably well though I was surprised that I was not as much as I had anticipated. I sometimes heard the symphony of snorers - you can't identify them by looking at them and then the symphony ends. Sometimes people get up at insane hours but not me. The refugios were always clean! except maybe Burgos and it was moving to a new one shortly. Some of the refugios were so special and had such character. The refugios definitely had a wonderful pulse - knowing that everyone there was doing the same thing maybe faster or slower or differently than you but all still walking everyday. A sense of commoness. I really enjoyed some of the smaller refugios where people enjoyed an evening meal together. Those were special times in special places.
The distances that I put everyday came from a sheet of paper that I got the first day with a list of refugios. I found that every source listed slightly different mileages. At the beginning I always wanted to know how far I went today. As time passed, I cared less and just really wanted to remember whether it was a short, medium or longer day in distance.
Walking to Portomarin was a day that started with torrential downpours and by the end it was just cloudy. I walked over and through the streams created on the path by the rain. It was pretty muddy. Another day that I was thankful for my boots - just go charging through with pretty sure footing and pretty dry feet. The first refugio was full so I got into the next one. It was huge - 110 beds in 1 massive room with curtains (like in a hospital) dividing the room in groups of about 30 bunks bedsin each section. Rows and rows of bunk beds and nice hot water in the showers. This place that had a roof covering (sort of inside, outside)to dry (or attempt to dry)washed clothing.
Everyday when you arrive the first stop is the shower and the next stop the sink to wash clothes, especially keeping those socks clean and dry. Three pairs for me just about worked. Sometimes, often, I put the almost dry pair in my sleeping bag to make bone dry. Often a pair of socks took 2 days to dry completely. I loved my socks - with lots of wool in them...and I loved my boots. Alison used to sing I love my boots - and hers were old, old, old - I gave her the insoles from mine and that them wearable. Heck I had some great insoles from MEC that I loved. So she was happy and so was I. Alison had a pack that barely stayed together. One day she through out the metal stays. It had no body. And I had my, rather Jennys pack that had all the bells and whistles - pretty much water proof. Alison finally bought a poncho after a couple of days of being soaked and there I was with waterproof pants, dry pack and pack cover and a jacket that I should have rewaterproofed. I did buy a plastic poncho to go over top but water leaked in everywhere. By the end, I mostly just stayed in the jacket, abondoned the plastic poncho and it was warm. When the rain stopped, the moisture evaporated from body heat and the air. I was never uncomfortable. The big brim on the sunhat sure worked well in the rain (especially because I wear glasses).
I found the restaurant recommended in the Lonely Planet, up some side street - quite difficult to find. I had a chat with an American there. He retired from the family business at 74 years of age, bought a bike at Wal-Mart and trained for a year. He then was cycling the Camino (on the road as opposed to mountain bike version of the route)and staying in hotels. His wife was not interested in joining him. He was talking to me and telling me that he would have no idea what to do with the rest of his life. After all, he is now retired and he has done this cycle trip, so what could he possibly do next. And he was missing his wife. I suggested that he carry on cycling. He had lost 30 pounds training and was much fitter than when he retired. He seemed so young and yet his experience of life was primarily working. Such interesting people...
I invited Helen and Alison to go to dinner with me. Alison was totally up for that but Helen saw a pizza place and wanted to go there. I suggested that we each do what we want. Helen was tired of the same food everyday and not too adventurous with her choices. (Try India and curry everyday for 4 months). Anyways she came with us because she did not want to go alone - compromising...internal dialogue that I observed. Alison and I ordered the two new things on the menu and shared (like Clive and I always do). We had the eel from the local lake fried and octopus. The octopus is similar to squid but the skin is fatty like chicken skin but thicker. It was a tiny restaurant and there were a few Aussies there and the friendly two East German lads that I always have a word or two with. A nice big window and a lake down below in the distance. All so much fun.
Day 32 San Xulian 28km
I saw a small poster while walking today advertising a refugio - small and privately run. It was a few km past the main town where there was a choice of refugios - out in a village. Having had wonderful and special experiences in some smaller out of the way places, I decided that I would go here. I also knew that most people would be stopping i town. So no choice of restaurants but rather the all-inclusive setting. (I had just had coffee 75 m. off the trail in a fairly modern very nice hotel - and no other peregrinos). That was a little different from the usual coffee stop. I sometimes like to get out of the regular routine. The refugio in San Xulian was perfect. Beautiful dark wood and stone walls, a friendly couple running the place that had moved here from Barcelona, a fireplace for me to sit beside to be warm. He called it 'muy tranquillo' and I had to agree. A room with only 4 bunks and a bed at the end that was not a bunk. I chose this one. A special place. Lots of showers here and nice washroom. They asked if I wanted dinner and breakfast here. Of course - unless you are not eating! and someone did make that choice. So five for dinner here this evening. Dinner was fine but the setting and company were great and I felt like I was in heaven. I chatted to a couple that was getting married on Saturday in Santiago. We didn't really include the Austrian couple in our conversation...but then we obviously didn't feel that we needed to. The gal was Swedish and he was Egyptian Canadian and they had worked and met in Uganda. He was looking at a career with the UN and going to Kabul. His parents spend 6 months in suburban Egypt and 6 months each year in Montreal. Of course I was interested in their African and life experience and plans.
I was enjoying every moment and I had time this afternoon to jot down a few things about the camino. I was recognizing that the end was in sight and today was another perfect day with time to wander the village and reflect. I took a few photos. When I left home I didn't know if I would use the camera and I thought about taking the instruction book with me. Well, I enjoyed the camera. It gave me the opportunity to look at things carefully sometimes and an excuse to slow down. I did not take it out in the rain to capture the deluges. The practicality of looking after the camera contributed to that decision - because I certainly had never experienced rain like I had on this trip. However this afternoon was perfect - it threatened to rain all day so that makes for an interesting sky. It did stop and start raining but finally gave up in the afternoon. The clouds were in constant motion. When I arrived at this refugio I sat by the fire and enjoyed the warmth and the pleasant small surroundings of dark wood, stone, a closed-in feeling similar to those that I enjoyed so often at the small coffee stops along the way. As it cleared I enjoyed the sun and the light and being the only peregrino in the village. I thought about how wonderful my experience had been and how I had done it the way that I wanted. I carried out my original intention of having time alone and time with people. I enjoyed so many days of walking on my own and considered only what I wanted. It took a while to recognize that - no compromises - rather self-centred but also reflective. I have hardly ever walked in Fish Creek on my own - for an hour and here I have enjoyed a month of walking! Interesting!
I had passed an area full of loud frogs and the sense of hearing took over. I thought of the blind fellow and his seeing wife that walked the camino at about the same speed as me. They were truly amazing. They are climatologists working in France from Australia and I learned a later from someone else that she is also a United church minister. They walked with him putting his left hand through her arm and a walking stick in the other hand. When it came to walking through streams (due to the rain) rather than walk from rock to rock they just walked straight through the water in their running/walking shoes. I thought about how he saw the camino and how his hearing and maybe other senses had to make up for the lack of vision. They slept in refugios and managed the washroom issue, etc. Amazing!
I thought about how I have enjoyed the terrific coffees in Spain - always lattes, the showers that felt so good after walking everyday - warm, relaxing, cleaning. I thought about where I slept, walked, who I met, chance encounters, how it felt walking in the ever changing landscapes, the loads of new experiences and generally the real intensity in daily living. All travel offers lots of stimulation to me but this time has been a little different. I recognized what an opportunity I have had and I also recognized that I have had no 'real' decisions to make, no plans for tomorrow, no bills to pay, no obligations, no commitments. I had enjoyed living in my 'bubble' ...and in a few days life might become a little more real....or certainly more complex anyways....It has been a time for introspection, reflection, and community - as the words just came out when I went to a pretty interesting church service at the German refugio a week or so back. The priest showed up in his chocolate brown robe with a rope around the waist and they did the washing of the feet - acting out a section of the Bible with some of the pilgrims. Lots of Germans here and a few people visibly moved by this activity. Never knew that the Germans could be so 'huggy' until this experience.
Belin, from Florida is a fifty something lady whom I met on Day 3. She introduced me to Betsy, her cart for pulling her backpack and her backpack, Yogi. She speaks English and it took 3 introductions before I understood her. She had large, large tortoise framed glasses and soon she was walking in old Avia running shoes as her hiking boots were too small and caused her toenails to go black and blue. She was up at 3:30am that first morning that she slept opposite me!...horrors.. She was always up early and I passed her sometime most days. She spent many hours walking quite slowly. When I never saw her for a few weeks, I assumed that she had slowed down a bit. But oh no, she was just at different refugios and not all that far from where I was. By now she had posted Betsy on as that caused her pulling arm to go black and blue. I asked her what the camino meant to her or what she had learned. She thought for a few seconds and then responded that on the camino you enjoy acquaintances and then let them go. I found that pretty thoughtful and inciteful - at least it kept me thinking for awhile... And most people had not really warmed to her.... and she was also fluent in Spanish. By the way, most propietors of the restaurants and coffee shops did not speak English.
In summary there is an intensity of living for me when I travel. On this trip, I was able to feel a lot and to feel grateful for so much every day. I am thankful that my life has been so wonderful so far. I enjoyed my own company so much. I am also proud of this accomplishment. I didn't realize at the beginning that it was going to be this physically demanding. I learned that packing light is important and that I may be strong but not that strong. My body probably needed a rest well before the end but it worked well and it felt strong and healthy. In fact, I no longer had to do yoga every day or even stretch very much. The muscles gradually learned and stretched, I guess. I enjoyed the process of walking more and more as time went on or rather I became less anxious to get to the refugio. Mind you, in Galacia there was not the same pressure on the refugios. I think that I also slowed down. The pack was comfortable and I liked my pace whatever it was.
I recognized only a month or so before I left home that after walking I feel relaxed. I had never noticed this before. We, or those I run with, have always recognized the relaxation and satisfaction after a run. It surprised me that when I paid attention some of that same feeling was there after a walk. As a kid I loved skiing because I could think of nothing else when I did it. I still love it when I am totally focused on it and my concentration is not elsewhere. It is not as much fun if I don't give it 100% of my attention. I always enjoyed the relaxation after a day of intense effort whether it was skiing or biking or hiking.
I did 'my camino' and I heard quite a few times the expression 'this is my camino'. Usually people trying to work out whether they were doing it their way or compromising and how much compromise they wanted.
...a few more people that I met...Voltrade, the German lady living in Denmark. We just connected even though we didn't spend all that much time together. She was with a Danish friend and they were having a wonderful time - probably the first time without their husbands. She was grateful that the camera she lost one day was mailed to her home in Denmark through giving her address to someone else on the trail. The wonders of the camino.
Michele, the German gal who walked for 35 days with someone she met even though she wanted to be alone because she didn't know how to tell this person that she wanted to be alone. Finally she just walked faster rather than confronting with her feelings. She was recognizing that she probably needed to learn to be more assertive. She was walking looking for faith and hoping to resolve issues about the possibility of marriage and the contentious issue of who wanted and who does not want children. Difficult issues for anyone.
Luce, the divorced French Canadian grandma whom I met at the airport going into town the first day. She was so warm and tried her English and I used my 16 words of French. She walked with a 'real' Frenchman - the beret cap, big belly. They enjoyed several weeks of walking together. He went back to his wife and family. She said that maybe he used to be like her husband but maybe he had improved now. They had a sense of comraderie. And of course, we often greeted in the street when we ran into each other. They were usually a bit ahead of me. I felt a sense of loss when he caught the train home about 1.5weeks before the end.
Joseanne, a wonderful 25 year old French Canadian - lots of French Canadians, a real sweetie. She and Luce were going to meet up again and walk to the coast, a 4 day journey. Joseanne liked the Italian fellow who had taken his mother walking and they got way ahead by taking the bus. She remained true to her camino walk and kept on walking... maybe they will meet again.
Brian the Australian who raced ahead every day and left his wife and her friend with the sprained ankle to walk at their own pace. Brian never acknowledged anyone or spoke with anyone. One day his wife asked if he could carry a few things for her injured friend and he said no. I asked the friend one day how her walk was and she was unhappy with the choice they had made that day. Another day the wife let off steam about how unhappy and compromising all of this was. What an unhappy trio but dammit they were going to all complete the camino come hell or high water. What ugly memories they will have - such torment, such lack of communication.
Mike and Margaret from Kamloops though he says South Africa. I laugh - he hasn't been there for 30 years! And then he says well I live in Vancouver...oh really I live in Calgary and you have MEC stuff (the way to identify Canadians) anyways it worked for him. They were pleasant and always first to the refugio when I saw them. He was the talker and she watched.
So many people....so many stories....short and long....so many things just to observe...
Day 33 Aruza 25.5km approx.
A great leisurely start to my day! Today was Sunday and I was visiting Malide in the morning. To celebrate Corpus Christi the flower petals and leaves were set out in the square in the shape of coats of arms. I saw the octupi being boiled in big vats in a restaurant, I ate the best raisin bun from the market and bought lots of fruit. My mind was pretty empty as I sort of summarized my thoughts yesterday.
I went right into the centre of town and found a brand new alburgue. I was recommended to a great little restaurant and I enjoyed calamari to start and lamb for the main course and of course red wine. I sat alone and enjoyed. In the towns it is harder to meet other peregrinos. I was happy, satisfied and relaxed.
Day 34 Arco 22km.
Today I am getting closer to the end. My choices are to stop in Arco and have 20 km tomorrow to meet Clive in Santiago or to carry on another 16 km approx and stay on the outskirts of Santiago in an albergue with 800 beds said to be quite 'military style'! Nothing in between so either a short day or a very long day. I had even considered walking all the way and having my backpack transported. But then I needed to find someone to ask and a phone and ...ah I would just walk and then decide. When I got to Arco it was around noon so I had lots of time. I decided that I would enjoy today here and not get really tired doing the extra distance. Besides that would mean mentally finishing a day earlier and I really wanted to enjoy the last evening and the walk in to Santiago, not just putting one foot in front of the other. I stayed at the new albergue though it had a few shortcomings - no kitchen (not for me but others), no sitting area (in the rainy regions this is helpful), showers that needed the temperatures upped..but it was clean and I was ready to enjoy every last moment.
As usual, I wanted a nice meal. I learned that there was a place back about 800m. I asked a few people if they wanted to join me in a great lunch and they all said that it was too far to walk. Not for me and food! So off I went alone. I ate at Bar Casa Rural o Acoviro, a small hotel (I would love to stay here) run by a young couple. The small dining room, the white table linen, the great service, great food, great ambiance. I enjoyed. Because I couldn't have the shellfish starters they made the best mushroom omelette I have ever tasted with a small grilled fish steak on the side, veal shank for mains (like 2 main courses but hey) and this cottagey-cheesy yogurty stuff with raspberry sauce all homemade and a bottle of wine (I only drank half in case you are concerned). It was wonderful way to savour my last afternoon on the camino - going out in style. I chatted with a small tour group for a bit - English speakers all 6 of them from all different countries. One could speak Spanish so they enlisted her help to tell me what was on the menu, etc. As is so often the case, people come out of the woodwork to help you with the language barriers. I was so glad that I was not on the tour!! all so predictable. Heck, today was a total surprise to me even as it was happening! Needless to say, I did not eat again today and missed the cafes in town.
By the way, I was again glad that I was walking alone as I could work out things at the last possible moment without reporting my plan or lack of a plan to anyone. I did see Alison and Helen in a coffee shop just before I checked into the Arco albergue. They had decided that they were bored and would walk to the outskirts of Santiago. I knew that if I had been with them that I would have probably gone along with their decision. Talking to them did not dissuade me at all, in fact I was really liking my decision though I did not know yet that I was about to have an amazing afternoon. I was also grateful that I was not in their frame of mind.
Day 35 Santiago 20.5km
It was a rather sleepless night for me. That always means something is going on in my mind. Yes, Clive is coming today and today is the last day of this experience. This albergue had a tree in the middle with a big 10footx10foot box around it. Light was shining on it, in it whatever it lit up a whole section of the room. Someone's phone kept on ringing. I was used to and expected snoring but not this. So I got up at 6:30am and quietly walked out. It was pitch black and when I got through town I found the trail. It was even darker as it was through tall trees. Initially I was unsure of my footing but it was straight forward. I got into quite a fast march and imperceptably morning and light came. After 10 or so km I had coffee in a hotel and met the French ladies again. Then I marched into Santiago. Alison and Helen were having coffee watching for me to come through. I thought they were pretty optomistic with their waiting as I had left so early in the morning.
The rest of the day I wrote about earlier.
Clive and I then enjoyed buses and trains, food and wine, beaches and wandering around Portugal. It got busier as we went further south and the Algarve is totally built up.
Then it was off to Bristol where we had a wonderful time spending time with family. We are getting to know the kids and enjoy seeing them as they and their families are growing up.
The distances that I put everyday came from a sheet of paper that I got the first day with a list of refugios. I found that every source listed slightly different mileages. At the beginning I always wanted to know how far I went today. As time passed, I cared less and just really wanted to remember whether it was a short, medium or longer day in distance.
Walking to Portomarin was a day that started with torrential downpours and by the end it was just cloudy. I walked over and through the streams created on the path by the rain. It was pretty muddy. Another day that I was thankful for my boots - just go charging through with pretty sure footing and pretty dry feet. The first refugio was full so I got into the next one. It was huge - 110 beds in 1 massive room with curtains (like in a hospital) dividing the room in groups of about 30 bunks bedsin each section. Rows and rows of bunk beds and nice hot water in the showers. This place that had a roof covering (sort of inside, outside)to dry (or attempt to dry)washed clothing.
Everyday when you arrive the first stop is the shower and the next stop the sink to wash clothes, especially keeping those socks clean and dry. Three pairs for me just about worked. Sometimes, often, I put the almost dry pair in my sleeping bag to make bone dry. Often a pair of socks took 2 days to dry completely. I loved my socks - with lots of wool in them...and I loved my boots. Alison used to sing I love my boots - and hers were old, old, old - I gave her the insoles from mine and that them wearable. Heck I had some great insoles from MEC that I loved. So she was happy and so was I. Alison had a pack that barely stayed together. One day she through out the metal stays. It had no body. And I had my, rather Jennys pack that had all the bells and whistles - pretty much water proof. Alison finally bought a poncho after a couple of days of being soaked and there I was with waterproof pants, dry pack and pack cover and a jacket that I should have rewaterproofed. I did buy a plastic poncho to go over top but water leaked in everywhere. By the end, I mostly just stayed in the jacket, abondoned the plastic poncho and it was warm. When the rain stopped, the moisture evaporated from body heat and the air. I was never uncomfortable. The big brim on the sunhat sure worked well in the rain (especially because I wear glasses).
I found the restaurant recommended in the Lonely Planet, up some side street - quite difficult to find. I had a chat with an American there. He retired from the family business at 74 years of age, bought a bike at Wal-Mart and trained for a year. He then was cycling the Camino (on the road as opposed to mountain bike version of the route)and staying in hotels. His wife was not interested in joining him. He was talking to me and telling me that he would have no idea what to do with the rest of his life. After all, he is now retired and he has done this cycle trip, so what could he possibly do next. And he was missing his wife. I suggested that he carry on cycling. He had lost 30 pounds training and was much fitter than when he retired. He seemed so young and yet his experience of life was primarily working. Such interesting people...
I invited Helen and Alison to go to dinner with me. Alison was totally up for that but Helen saw a pizza place and wanted to go there. I suggested that we each do what we want. Helen was tired of the same food everyday and not too adventurous with her choices. (Try India and curry everyday for 4 months). Anyways she came with us because she did not want to go alone - compromising...internal dialogue that I observed. Alison and I ordered the two new things on the menu and shared (like Clive and I always do). We had the eel from the local lake fried and octopus. The octopus is similar to squid but the skin is fatty like chicken skin but thicker. It was a tiny restaurant and there were a few Aussies there and the friendly two East German lads that I always have a word or two with. A nice big window and a lake down below in the distance. All so much fun.
Day 32 San Xulian 28km
I saw a small poster while walking today advertising a refugio - small and privately run. It was a few km past the main town where there was a choice of refugios - out in a village. Having had wonderful and special experiences in some smaller out of the way places, I decided that I would go here. I also knew that most people would be stopping i town. So no choice of restaurants but rather the all-inclusive setting. (I had just had coffee 75 m. off the trail in a fairly modern very nice hotel - and no other peregrinos). That was a little different from the usual coffee stop. I sometimes like to get out of the regular routine. The refugio in San Xulian was perfect. Beautiful dark wood and stone walls, a friendly couple running the place that had moved here from Barcelona, a fireplace for me to sit beside to be warm. He called it 'muy tranquillo' and I had to agree. A room with only 4 bunks and a bed at the end that was not a bunk. I chose this one. A special place. Lots of showers here and nice washroom. They asked if I wanted dinner and breakfast here. Of course - unless you are not eating! and someone did make that choice. So five for dinner here this evening. Dinner was fine but the setting and company were great and I felt like I was in heaven. I chatted to a couple that was getting married on Saturday in Santiago. We didn't really include the Austrian couple in our conversation...but then we obviously didn't feel that we needed to. The gal was Swedish and he was Egyptian Canadian and they had worked and met in Uganda. He was looking at a career with the UN and going to Kabul. His parents spend 6 months in suburban Egypt and 6 months each year in Montreal. Of course I was interested in their African and life experience and plans.
I was enjoying every moment and I had time this afternoon to jot down a few things about the camino. I was recognizing that the end was in sight and today was another perfect day with time to wander the village and reflect. I took a few photos. When I left home I didn't know if I would use the camera and I thought about taking the instruction book with me. Well, I enjoyed the camera. It gave me the opportunity to look at things carefully sometimes and an excuse to slow down. I did not take it out in the rain to capture the deluges. The practicality of looking after the camera contributed to that decision - because I certainly had never experienced rain like I had on this trip. However this afternoon was perfect - it threatened to rain all day so that makes for an interesting sky. It did stop and start raining but finally gave up in the afternoon. The clouds were in constant motion. When I arrived at this refugio I sat by the fire and enjoyed the warmth and the pleasant small surroundings of dark wood, stone, a closed-in feeling similar to those that I enjoyed so often at the small coffee stops along the way. As it cleared I enjoyed the sun and the light and being the only peregrino in the village. I thought about how wonderful my experience had been and how I had done it the way that I wanted. I carried out my original intention of having time alone and time with people. I enjoyed so many days of walking on my own and considered only what I wanted. It took a while to recognize that - no compromises - rather self-centred but also reflective. I have hardly ever walked in Fish Creek on my own - for an hour and here I have enjoyed a month of walking! Interesting!
I had passed an area full of loud frogs and the sense of hearing took over. I thought of the blind fellow and his seeing wife that walked the camino at about the same speed as me. They were truly amazing. They are climatologists working in France from Australia and I learned a later from someone else that she is also a United church minister. They walked with him putting his left hand through her arm and a walking stick in the other hand. When it came to walking through streams (due to the rain) rather than walk from rock to rock they just walked straight through the water in their running/walking shoes. I thought about how he saw the camino and how his hearing and maybe other senses had to make up for the lack of vision. They slept in refugios and managed the washroom issue, etc. Amazing!
I thought about how I have enjoyed the terrific coffees in Spain - always lattes, the showers that felt so good after walking everyday - warm, relaxing, cleaning. I thought about where I slept, walked, who I met, chance encounters, how it felt walking in the ever changing landscapes, the loads of new experiences and generally the real intensity in daily living. All travel offers lots of stimulation to me but this time has been a little different. I recognized what an opportunity I have had and I also recognized that I have had no 'real' decisions to make, no plans for tomorrow, no bills to pay, no obligations, no commitments. I had enjoyed living in my 'bubble' ...and in a few days life might become a little more real....or certainly more complex anyways....It has been a time for introspection, reflection, and community - as the words just came out when I went to a pretty interesting church service at the German refugio a week or so back. The priest showed up in his chocolate brown robe with a rope around the waist and they did the washing of the feet - acting out a section of the Bible with some of the pilgrims. Lots of Germans here and a few people visibly moved by this activity. Never knew that the Germans could be so 'huggy' until this experience.
Belin, from Florida is a fifty something lady whom I met on Day 3. She introduced me to Betsy, her cart for pulling her backpack and her backpack, Yogi. She speaks English and it took 3 introductions before I understood her. She had large, large tortoise framed glasses and soon she was walking in old Avia running shoes as her hiking boots were too small and caused her toenails to go black and blue. She was up at 3:30am that first morning that she slept opposite me!...horrors.. She was always up early and I passed her sometime most days. She spent many hours walking quite slowly. When I never saw her for a few weeks, I assumed that she had slowed down a bit. But oh no, she was just at different refugios and not all that far from where I was. By now she had posted Betsy on as that caused her pulling arm to go black and blue. I asked her what the camino meant to her or what she had learned. She thought for a few seconds and then responded that on the camino you enjoy acquaintances and then let them go. I found that pretty thoughtful and inciteful - at least it kept me thinking for awhile... And most people had not really warmed to her.... and she was also fluent in Spanish. By the way, most propietors of the restaurants and coffee shops did not speak English.
In summary there is an intensity of living for me when I travel. On this trip, I was able to feel a lot and to feel grateful for so much every day. I am thankful that my life has been so wonderful so far. I enjoyed my own company so much. I am also proud of this accomplishment. I didn't realize at the beginning that it was going to be this physically demanding. I learned that packing light is important and that I may be strong but not that strong. My body probably needed a rest well before the end but it worked well and it felt strong and healthy. In fact, I no longer had to do yoga every day or even stretch very much. The muscles gradually learned and stretched, I guess. I enjoyed the process of walking more and more as time went on or rather I became less anxious to get to the refugio. Mind you, in Galacia there was not the same pressure on the refugios. I think that I also slowed down. The pack was comfortable and I liked my pace whatever it was.
I recognized only a month or so before I left home that after walking I feel relaxed. I had never noticed this before. We, or those I run with, have always recognized the relaxation and satisfaction after a run. It surprised me that when I paid attention some of that same feeling was there after a walk. As a kid I loved skiing because I could think of nothing else when I did it. I still love it when I am totally focused on it and my concentration is not elsewhere. It is not as much fun if I don't give it 100% of my attention. I always enjoyed the relaxation after a day of intense effort whether it was skiing or biking or hiking.
I did 'my camino' and I heard quite a few times the expression 'this is my camino'. Usually people trying to work out whether they were doing it their way or compromising and how much compromise they wanted.
...a few more people that I met...Voltrade, the German lady living in Denmark. We just connected even though we didn't spend all that much time together. She was with a Danish friend and they were having a wonderful time - probably the first time without their husbands. She was grateful that the camera she lost one day was mailed to her home in Denmark through giving her address to someone else on the trail. The wonders of the camino.
Michele, the German gal who walked for 35 days with someone she met even though she wanted to be alone because she didn't know how to tell this person that she wanted to be alone. Finally she just walked faster rather than confronting with her feelings. She was recognizing that she probably needed to learn to be more assertive. She was walking looking for faith and hoping to resolve issues about the possibility of marriage and the contentious issue of who wanted and who does not want children. Difficult issues for anyone.
Luce, the divorced French Canadian grandma whom I met at the airport going into town the first day. She was so warm and tried her English and I used my 16 words of French. She walked with a 'real' Frenchman - the beret cap, big belly. They enjoyed several weeks of walking together. He went back to his wife and family. She said that maybe he used to be like her husband but maybe he had improved now. They had a sense of comraderie. And of course, we often greeted in the street when we ran into each other. They were usually a bit ahead of me. I felt a sense of loss when he caught the train home about 1.5weeks before the end.
Joseanne, a wonderful 25 year old French Canadian - lots of French Canadians, a real sweetie. She and Luce were going to meet up again and walk to the coast, a 4 day journey. Joseanne liked the Italian fellow who had taken his mother walking and they got way ahead by taking the bus. She remained true to her camino walk and kept on walking... maybe they will meet again.
Brian the Australian who raced ahead every day and left his wife and her friend with the sprained ankle to walk at their own pace. Brian never acknowledged anyone or spoke with anyone. One day his wife asked if he could carry a few things for her injured friend and he said no. I asked the friend one day how her walk was and she was unhappy with the choice they had made that day. Another day the wife let off steam about how unhappy and compromising all of this was. What an unhappy trio but dammit they were going to all complete the camino come hell or high water. What ugly memories they will have - such torment, such lack of communication.
Mike and Margaret from Kamloops though he says South Africa. I laugh - he hasn't been there for 30 years! And then he says well I live in Vancouver...oh really I live in Calgary and you have MEC stuff (the way to identify Canadians) anyways it worked for him. They were pleasant and always first to the refugio when I saw them. He was the talker and she watched.
So many people....so many stories....short and long....so many things just to observe...
Day 33 Aruza 25.5km approx.
A great leisurely start to my day! Today was Sunday and I was visiting Malide in the morning. To celebrate Corpus Christi the flower petals and leaves were set out in the square in the shape of coats of arms. I saw the octupi being boiled in big vats in a restaurant, I ate the best raisin bun from the market and bought lots of fruit. My mind was pretty empty as I sort of summarized my thoughts yesterday.
I went right into the centre of town and found a brand new alburgue. I was recommended to a great little restaurant and I enjoyed calamari to start and lamb for the main course and of course red wine. I sat alone and enjoyed. In the towns it is harder to meet other peregrinos. I was happy, satisfied and relaxed.
Day 34 Arco 22km.
Today I am getting closer to the end. My choices are to stop in Arco and have 20 km tomorrow to meet Clive in Santiago or to carry on another 16 km approx and stay on the outskirts of Santiago in an albergue with 800 beds said to be quite 'military style'! Nothing in between so either a short day or a very long day. I had even considered walking all the way and having my backpack transported. But then I needed to find someone to ask and a phone and ...ah I would just walk and then decide. When I got to Arco it was around noon so I had lots of time. I decided that I would enjoy today here and not get really tired doing the extra distance. Besides that would mean mentally finishing a day earlier and I really wanted to enjoy the last evening and the walk in to Santiago, not just putting one foot in front of the other. I stayed at the new albergue though it had a few shortcomings - no kitchen (not for me but others), no sitting area (in the rainy regions this is helpful), showers that needed the temperatures upped..but it was clean and I was ready to enjoy every last moment.
As usual, I wanted a nice meal. I learned that there was a place back about 800m. I asked a few people if they wanted to join me in a great lunch and they all said that it was too far to walk. Not for me and food! So off I went alone. I ate at Bar Casa Rural o Acoviro, a small hotel (I would love to stay here) run by a young couple. The small dining room, the white table linen, the great service, great food, great ambiance. I enjoyed. Because I couldn't have the shellfish starters they made the best mushroom omelette I have ever tasted with a small grilled fish steak on the side, veal shank for mains (like 2 main courses but hey) and this cottagey-cheesy yogurty stuff with raspberry sauce all homemade and a bottle of wine (I only drank half in case you are concerned). It was wonderful way to savour my last afternoon on the camino - going out in style. I chatted with a small tour group for a bit - English speakers all 6 of them from all different countries. One could speak Spanish so they enlisted her help to tell me what was on the menu, etc. As is so often the case, people come out of the woodwork to help you with the language barriers. I was so glad that I was not on the tour!! all so predictable. Heck, today was a total surprise to me even as it was happening! Needless to say, I did not eat again today and missed the cafes in town.
By the way, I was again glad that I was walking alone as I could work out things at the last possible moment without reporting my plan or lack of a plan to anyone. I did see Alison and Helen in a coffee shop just before I checked into the Arco albergue. They had decided that they were bored and would walk to the outskirts of Santiago. I knew that if I had been with them that I would have probably gone along with their decision. Talking to them did not dissuade me at all, in fact I was really liking my decision though I did not know yet that I was about to have an amazing afternoon. I was also grateful that I was not in their frame of mind.
Day 35 Santiago 20.5km
It was a rather sleepless night for me. That always means something is going on in my mind. Yes, Clive is coming today and today is the last day of this experience. This albergue had a tree in the middle with a big 10footx10foot box around it. Light was shining on it, in it whatever it lit up a whole section of the room. Someone's phone kept on ringing. I was used to and expected snoring but not this. So I got up at 6:30am and quietly walked out. It was pitch black and when I got through town I found the trail. It was even darker as it was through tall trees. Initially I was unsure of my footing but it was straight forward. I got into quite a fast march and imperceptably morning and light came. After 10 or so km I had coffee in a hotel and met the French ladies again. Then I marched into Santiago. Alison and Helen were having coffee watching for me to come through. I thought they were pretty optomistic with their waiting as I had left so early in the morning.
The rest of the day I wrote about earlier.
Clive and I then enjoyed buses and trains, food and wine, beaches and wandering around Portugal. It got busier as we went further south and the Algarve is totally built up.
Then it was off to Bristol where we had a wonderful time spending time with family. We are getting to know the kids and enjoy seeing them as they and their families are growing up.
Wednesday, May 14, 2008
Sunday, April 13, 2008
Getting ready for the Camino
Every now and then take a look at something not made with hands; a mountain, a star, the curve in a stream. There will come to you wisdom and patience, and above all the assurance that you are not alone in the world. Sidney Lovett
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