Part 2 June 5-19 Coast to Coast England
......Emotions fleeting..,the burst of feelings as Clive leaves for home and me onto the train for my walk, settling into today, excited and comfortable on my own..actually missing mom and home ...though adventure spirits takes over and ready for a new adventure. Anxious to hear Lynda's news and meet up
The sky and weather change like your feelings...sun, cloud, cold and finally sunshine. Today ?a metaphor for my experience or feelings today......
Day zero Enjoyed the train to St. Bees...going...on my own...competent...happy Met Lynda after finding the bed and breakfast. She is equally buoyed up for the next adventure. Great BandB at Abby Farm.
Day one st bees to ennerdale bridge
29 km six and half hours. Picked up after dinner in pub at ennerdale bridge to go to Ghyll farm. Walked most of the day with Mike who knew the route like the back of his hand. Brilliant sunshiny day with a perfect temperature... a great way to start. And following the coast for the first while.
Finding the trail is not very well marked. Lynda managed to find how to work the GPS. We don't have Mike tomorrow so we will have to rely on our GPS. It would have a been a good idea if I had remembered to get a map while in England. Hope that it goes smoothly as the rain is supposed to be here. We are definitely doing a sun dance and hoping that the wonderful weather continues.
Excited and full of anticipation
Ghyll farm was also a very special wonderful place to stay with warm hosts.
Day2 27 km 8 hours ennerdale bridge to rostewaite
Lots of help from Ghyll farm pointing us in the right direction and giving us a couple of maps. GPS points invaluable as well as previewing the map and asking a couple of friendly passers by. They sorted us out - not quite as simple as finding the creek and following it. A massive mascochistic race of trail running... 23miles going at crazy speeds. There was a badly injured competitor in the hostel awaiting the rescue team. Some jerk in the hostel kept repeating that this was not a first aid station. Probably the only jerk we saw in all of our holidays - and he was staying in the hostel?
By the late morning it was pouring an unrelenting rain but it warm enough. People warned us about getting lost but we are going where we see others and pretty clear which mountain to go over. We were mighty glad to get to our destination. The last few km were long and we made a little navigational error and it was still raining. The rain gear worked great - jacket and rain pants though my feet were soaked in my new waterproof boots. A long day with a sense of accomplishment at the end - distance, weather and direction finding. This was the most expensive stay on our walk and probably the only place that disappointed. There was no meal choice but dining room full and pretty pleasant and relaxed in this wonderful old bldg. It was better in our room when we got the radiators going...shower not hot as too much demand on the tank...other than those things pretty good. This was Royal Oak hotel and each room had its set table in the dining room so they knew who missed a meal by where they sat! There was a drying room and the radiators to dry our boots and clothes.
Lynda has pretty sore shoulders but she doesn't say much.... as she has an ineffective waist belt....and complaining doesn't solve it, she tells me (so true) but I feel for her.
We are definitely feeling a little insecure about direction finding.... more by luck than management...so far and people pointing us in the right direction and some guesswork. The GPS points take way to long to enter and we need a map to relate them to. They need to be preloaded. Other people at the hotel could not believe that we got this far without a map or book! I definitely felt foolish and knew that we got here more by luck than management. Some were really concerned that we might get lost - we heard several tales of people being lost! So we are hoping to get a guidebook and map in Grasmere ---otherwise who knows ---as this is not a route that you see other walkers --- you see them at the end of the day but not during - and not that many.
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Day 3 15 km 7hr rostewaite to grasmere independent hostel lovely
A stellar day with the great endorphins going. Expected rain but it never came. Managed to happenl upon the alpine route. it was longer than expected but also amazing ...such a long ridge. A truly moving day of hiking for me. Went up the longest hill two on the route ...a nice steady climb for an hour or more and then ridge after ridge and then down. Lots of bog... In fact someone when in it up to their knees and someone to their thighs. Muddy wet boots again today...bog and must watch every single step due to uneven terrain. Many many times grateful for the poles. Thought we could be down for lunch but it was more like four or 4:30.
Hurrah! got a book and a Map about c2c ....so we both feel good about. Had a pint with an Aussie couple that we hiked up the hill with this am.
Ate at Jumbles the best restaurant I've ever been to in England....chicken with pumpkin stuffing, sweet potato and green beans and a ravioli with cream, lemon, amazing mushrooms, spinach and garnished with arugula. And a great waiter...family related....
Grasmere is a beautiful village...clean friendly, flowers, lots of slate and stone homes...Wordsworth home
Looking forward to day 4 ...may it not pass too quickly.
Day 4 grasmere to patterdale shepherds crook bunkhouse suite great
12 km 5.5 hrs
Lynda buys a pack in the am. Attempted bkfst in town but difficult to find. Grasmere looked better yesterday with all the people but still a friendly town.
Raining buckets so chose easiest route - two hours straight up this am, must watch every step all day. Wet feet but warm, a lot of rain today...locals are used to it.
Tired and satisfied tonight.
Great dinner and time at Water View Hotel...proprietor so interesting and enthusiastic, guests, food, ambiance all so wonderful and so much connection. Smoked haddock, roast lamb and original sticky date pudding - so great Lynda and I are sharing dinners that is swapping half way through. So Clive, I now have someone else that I can trade dinners halfway through with! This hotelier showed us what he considered an easier and more interesting route for tomorrow so Lynda took photos on her ipad of the topo map on the wall and we wrote directions down as best we could.
Day5. 20 km 5 hours to shap via a boat on ullswater lake making a more interesting and shorter day as recommended by the hotelier.
Great bkfst and a walk to the boat...a couple km ...and rode up the lake on the boat with nicely varnished decks. The sky was incredible - dark cloud moving around - the Lake District is famous for this, I guess - and the rain makes it so green. Anyways even better watching the cloud show and getting no rain! Then walked in sunshine...no longer the lake district...easy flat terrain just enjoying the sun, wind, cows, sheep. Navigating is proving perhaps the biggest challenge and Lynda is happy not to overextend herself but would prefer to arrive happy and tired but not exhausted. Beer and fish and chips tonight....how English.
Day 6 shap to Kirkby stephen
10hours with 20 min lunch. 36 km with 2 navigational errors
Walked most of the way that young Dane.
Fine sunny day a few bogs
Very tired at the end of the day ... a lot of steps even if they are easy steps...I underestimated the difficulty of this trip and also the navigational challenges!
Enjoyed tea and scones as a welcome here at 6:30 pm at the Jolly Farmer and met a group of 4 women... 3 from yyc...first women travelling together that we have met since starting ...usually see couples.
Wet feet and tired feet, legs, and shoulders today. Lynda and I agree that having bags transported would make the journey much less arduous and so more fun... the new pack really isn't working all that well for her though she really doesn't say much except that we could solve the problem by having bags transported. I totally agree. The women we met looked so fresh and relaxed and Lynda really liked that. I was happy that she made that decision for us.
After tea and time to recover, stretch and shower went for a one dish delicious Indian chicken dish and naan bread. It was absolutely wonderful food and so beautifully presented with white tablecloths, etc. Lynda and I enjoy sharing so that works well. Such a cute town.
Day 7 to keld
6.75 hr 21km
Awesome day sunshine breeze
Sent our stuff on in a plastic garbage bag and had no weight! Used Packhorse, the company with the best reputation - and better prices too for transporting! They would be the company of choice if you were planning this trip. Lynda was so much happier and the walking became so much more pleasurable for her...could tell sort of by her voice.. And for me too. Still enough walking by the end of the day. Great navigating today...relying on our navigational skills or rather following the book closely....an interesting challenge. We prefer walking without others and enjoy their comradeship in the evenings - now that we are equipped with book and map. Usually you are on your own anyways ...and people go different speeds but occasionally someone wants to join you.
Lovely breakfast...tried smoked haddock and poached egg today.
Absolutely relaxing and fun walking, navigating and jumping through the bogs.
Still ready to arrive when we did...not exhausted but pleasantly tired.
Went to keld lodge for dinner..fully booked but had a drink in a lovely sitting room social...and a young couple immediately gave us their booking. We enjoyed a drink in the sitting room/lounge and talked to the walkers and the young couple - he a shepherd and her a uni student. The whole room had one conversation and this lad became the centre of attention as he told us about sheep and sheep raising. It was so kind that they gave us their reservation as no there was nowhere else to eat.They said that they could drive elsewhere. So much fun sharing dinners with Lynda ...shared 3 kinds of salmon and a curry. Great food
Had the Keld bunkhouse to ourselves...and such great accommodation and a friendly proprietor....a whole house....he said that he would have made us dinner even though it was past the time. Such friendly hospitable people.
Excited and loving every minute
Day8. To Reeth 6.25 hours the austere high road 20 km
Walked with super fit Jerry (73) today...most other chose the low route. Cloudy most of the day but pleasantly warm. Enjoyed all of the walk without our bags. Overcast warm no navigational errors gaining confidence in reading our guidebook. Arrived at Cambridge house midafternoon for lovely tea and biscuits in the sunroom. A beautiful accommodation and food and owner...the absolute best...
Shoes soaked every day but feet in great shape
Saw grouse today several times and 8 baby grouse
An area of no growth due to lead mining
Every detail lovely here and dinner at he cute buck inn was pretty good
Passed the half way point today though not marked and over the Pennines
Day 9 17 km to Richmond Potter gate guest house. 5hr
Nice easy walk today. Rain threatened. Navigation and following on my own pretty good. Walked with Jerry for awhile. Afternoon in the village. Learned basics of compass use and today marked off a distance with Jerry. Feet a little tired underneath. Feeling a little tired and glad not to being carrying weight though feet still have to do the distance. Preferring to be on our own and use our own skills to navigate. Both of us had a lot of salty kippers toda- yuck.
Day 10. 36 km. Ingelby cross. And 3 more km to park house so definitely worth the effort
An early start for a long flat day. Breakfast times are generally from 7-8:30 in most of the accommodations and the owners suggest whether you need an early or late breakfast.. I could not believe the surge of energy I felt as we saw the farm house finally appear. I jumped for joy and let out a scream. I had no idea that arriving today would give me such a boost . So glad that we had no packs today! A wonderful finish with a glass of Prosecco in the most welcoming place with a tiny bar area.Great big roast dinner on 2 great slab tables sharing time with other walkers. Gorgeous room. So excited to arrive. The surge of energy upon arrival. Tired from putting on the km on flat ground. Some navigation required but in all quite long and boring.....it felt like a race against time to put in all those kms. It is the only day that we walked to put in all of the km and we did watch our time and distance...felt like the amazing race and definitely a sense of accomplishment at the end but not so much fun. Such a warm welcome and beautiful setting. The owners were both very special. How they had the energy to do this every day. You felt like their very first guests! They did know how to separate business from pleasure. After the greetings and dinner; we had our space and they theirs.
Day 11. To Blakey Ridge 4400 feet ascent and descent 34km in 8.75 hours and I am tired today and my arches hurt towards the end - I put in the better foot beds in and stretched my arches before the last few km. It is the first cold day and here we are out on the moors. Looked bleak out there (just like the movies the moors go on and on) and we were very happy to finish. Mist around just like you can only imagine. A cute large pub on the moors in the middle of nowhere the Lion Inn - so many cute spaces in this huge pub. Needed one dinner instead of 2...way too much meat. Quads and hamstrings tight tonight. Tired and relieved to be here. Stretching esp arches worked wonders
Spent dinner and breakfast with Jerry and another couple. So much fun and such a pleasant environment out of the elements.
Day 12. To Little Beck 17. 5 miles. 6.5 hrs good that I stretched esp my arches. Muscles in legs worked well even though muscles still tired. Mist on the moor so set out with Jerry just to be safe. And eventually picked up Graham who is 73 and has very little equipment and sends his tent on every day - he was happy for the company as his guidebook was really out of date and he was unsure of the route - and the mist initially made him think it best to go back - then we met up and he trusted our judgement and numbers. Good to have company on the misty drizzling moors as long boring start but we put on the miles fairly quickly and then the terrain got more interesting and my body working well. Arrived, the two of us relaxed and enjoying every last step today esp as we walked out of the last town and enjoyed the hills and terrain and the occasional spit of rain. The others went there own way when the weather cleared up and the terrain became more interesting. A great cup of tea at Intake Farm learning about farming in the messy kitchen. We were wondering what we were in for - this friendly lady inviting us into her messy kitchen - clutter everywhere but oh so welcoming. We chatted and learned something about cattle and sheep farming. Our part of the house was wonderful and her cooking was ok. Looking forward with mixed feelings about our last day. It sure would be nice to have some sun. Boots still as wet as ever
Day13. To Robin Hood bay. 18 km 5 hours pleasant walking sun shining. Walk along the coast to end . Took a couple of navigational changes to avoid bog using the map instead of book. Boy, the confidence that we are gaining with reading the maps and guidebook ...in this case the map allowed us to deviate quite successfully! Early arrival beer after an easy walk. We met Jerry and the other couple - they had more distance to cover than us.Sat in sunshine and then dipped our boot toes in water just as we had done at the beginning. Great day somewhat anticlimactic as weather so good today and walk not so long. A wonderful sense of achievement....many days longer and harder than I had expected, much more navigation required than I expected, incredible accommodation, great food, friendly people, changing weather - 4 days with rain, many overcast and a few sunshine. Wonderful memories created of northern England. Lynda was the perfect walking partner - and I like that she always had her primary goal as enjoying the doing and not just achieving the end. We made a great team! We took turns day by day with the guidebook and we consulted each other at turns to double check. I liked the way Lynda was able to make decisions easily that worked for her...the pack, which restaurant to eat in....life in perspective!
Day 14 From Scarborough to London on the train and then to the Travelodge. Got tickets for Les Miserables so that was wonderful for both of us. As Lynda caught the plane the next day, I wondered around London with my pack. I have never walked so far in London. Enjoyed going into the court of appeal for England and Wales and admiring the building and listening to a couple of cases. Wandered everywhere - even had a great time meeting people on the train to LHR.
Another wonderful vacation from start to finish. I am so grateful...and excited by the experiences that I have enjoyed on this wonderful journey of life.
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