Panama Jan.12-Feb.1, 2011

New Panama City from Old City


Why Panama? Why not Panama?
It all started with the idea of Clive wanting to see the Panama Canal, the great human engineering feat. So the possibility of a cruise existed - comfortable, easy...but only one day to go through the canal and experience the wonder. For me, cruises are about the cruise experience and not the destination, though in fact that may be changing a bit. I still think it is about the cruise and not the destination - all of these groups being shuttled around in tours and then returned to the boat.

So as per usual, I picked up from travel books from the library and took a look at what Panama might have to offer. Well, it looked to be an interesting destination - the biggest and most developed city in Central America, rainforests, mountains, two oceans not too far apart and all of this in a relatively small country. Then a world class surfing destination at the end of the road (when I came back I discovered that Jordie had spent 3 weeks surfing here and it had only changed somewhat in 12 years!) and an island that is an extension of the Galapagos only 20 miles offshore (1.5hours in a boat). So why not?
Then the added bonus that we had accumulated 37,000 air points with first North West, transferred to Continental and then to Delta. So it seemed we had Delta points that would evaporate in November. So those had to be put to good use!....and with the new online program it was easy to see that lots of flights were available for our points. Thus Panama!

We enjoyed Panama. The food was better than expected - it was not rice and beans all the time as Lonely Planet had suggested. There was an interesting array of various ethnic foods - one of the best pizzas at a Greek place, French food in the highlands at a creperie run by a Frenchman, a wonderful curried fish dish by a French Canadian with a restaurant in Bocas. Lots of good experiences including the night that it was raining and we ate at a table and bench under an extended roof right near our spot in St. Catalina (the nicest beach on the Pacific so they say - very tidal and grey sand and lots of surfers). A Swiss couple said that it was good. So we ordered fish (choice of grilled or fried) and the choice of chips or rice. We ordered a beer and he ran up to the shop to buy one. It was fresh and delicious and out of the rain. The next day I asked if he could do a coffee for us. It seems not. Only fish and fish or rice. Then I learned he did not even have a frige. So that was impressive that he could serve up dinner - and oh yes, at $3.00 a plate not the standard $7 or 8 for this kind of meal. A local being successful - and the Swiss couple there were all that we saw to entice us (and the rain) to stop. Seems that food is a pretty important part of travelling - from the food to the decor, location etc. We ate at a wonderful little restaurant twice in Old Panama and on both occasions he shortchanged us by the amount of $1. Why? White tablecloths, intimate, great service, reasonable food, awesome frappes. Then the blue cheese sauce on the beef tenderloin at our hotel in Bouquette, the only place that we had trouble finding accommodation. Lots of good food, but as always when you go out to eat, I never get enough vegetables. Enough to make us eat at home! Even the bus stations had reasonable food - fish and rice! But after nearly 3 weeks, food at home starts to sound better - mostly because of the veg. Certainly fun all of these settings.

Miraflores Lock

Through the Cut and the new bridge

We did the full transit of the Panama Canal - and it was very interesting and relaxing - starting in the Pacific going through 3 locks, through the Guillard Cut (we expected this to be narrow but it was wide open) and then across the manmade lake and through 2 more lakes but tying up in the Atlantic in Colon. The lakes put massive amounts of land underwater and even created an island with the mountain that did not get submerged. It took a few years to fill the lakes. We saw where they are making alternative channels to increase the size of ships that will be able to go through the Panama. A great commentary for much of the way. I am so glad that we were able to do the full transit as that only happens about one day per month. We tried to book through a travel agent in our hotel but he was adamant that there was no full transit this day. He told us this several times even when we named the company and so on. So we booked online and yes, the company and booking exist. You do have to get yourself to the starting point by taxi unlike the competitive company that has some kind of pickup service and does work through travel agents.

We enjoyed several days in the north east at Bocas and managed to rent a condo through VRBO - a change from a hotel. Up on the third floor 2 streets back from the water, we were able to sit and watch. A beach town with no beach! It was a bus or water taxi to the beach. Beautiful beaches when you get there!...except 3 weeks later I am still recovering from the sand fly bites. So I do not want to retire here! unlike others.

Beach near Bocas
Surfers at Santa Catalina

Canadians and Americans are retiring like flies in the highland region - no snow to shovel, pleasant climate year round, lots of flowers and plants, cheap housing with everything you could dream of (well granite counters and a gardener) seemed to be the formula, a community of expat friends from day one. Oh yes, cheap medical care, cheap beer, discounts on everything from hotels to restaurants... to who knows what with this residencial card. I guess that the theme is cheaper than home and a lifestyle for expats. Apparently gated communities are springing up in the highlands. The poor locals - who can no longer afford housing and land and who will one day be in the minority if this carries on. These Canadians and Americans are also choosing other places to settle depending upon their personal perferences. If they prefer the coast there are two to choose from - the Caribbean with the Caribbean influence (and sandflies) and the Pacific with great surf, etc., or the cooler highlands,or the developed city with restaurants and nightlife. Take your pick - but the decision as to where is personal but all like the price and apparent lifestyle. Think I'll give it a miss and just visit. I like home and family and that familiarity and those blue skies of Alberta (not today but then today is a warm winter day). We even stayed at a great B&B in Santiago on our way to St. Catalina (going from the east coast to the west coast). This 2 guys had a great place, great meals, good conversation and were great hosts. They arrived here (the only expats in the community) because they needed a place. One was Austrailan and one was American. They could not migrate to either country as the respective countries would not allow the other to stay. They managed for several years in Australia and several in the US but there time together had run out. They had explored Costa Rica on numerous occasions and apparently it is now more expensive than Panama. Then they found this place in Panama. You need a single income of $1000 per month or $1200 joint to stay. Other people explained bringing in so much money and staying, no land tax for 15 years, etc. Lots of incentives. Anyways these two found their new community of their landlord and a few people around. And then they set up the b&b. Everyone has a story as how they arrived or are going to arrive to set up in Panama.

Coffee Plantation Bouquette

Interesting money and development. We found that taxis may or may not want to take you for the designated rate. Often they attempt to increase it severalfold and when this happens they really don't seem to want to take you. For the standard $2 or $3 you could go locally. We paid $6 for a cab ride one way and someone from our hotel paid $30 for the ride in the opposite direction (and same distance). So eventually there will be a two tiered system (like Bangkok).
Another interesting thing happened at the bus station. Clive was in a long line to buy a bus ticket. I was scouting about and the bus driver said that there was space on the bus for me..and also Clive. So we went through the turnstile to the bus (the person there was angry) and we hopped onto the bus. Eventually the ticket person issued us tickets on the bus - so it all seemed to work out - and the bonus of no line. I never thought about it again until we were in another bus line and Clive was in the line that was not moving much and ever so long. I wandered about and then watched the ticket window for awhile. When I realized that neither ticket window was selling tickets (the agents were away from the window) so now I knew why the line wasn't moving. So I went around to the bus and the driver was organizing various single people without tickets to get on and so I got Clive and we got on (since the driver reassured me that there would be seats for us). We paid the correct amount and were issued tickets. We told this story to the guys at the b&b and they smiled and said that corruption was rampant in their experience. So many people had to be in the know for this to happen ...or was it legit?
I guess that there is corruption in most countries. It is interesting that we often seem something when we travel - mostly because people are poor.

We chatted with lots of people
- and the older generation ooutnumbered the youngsters travelling in this country. This is definitely a grey-haired destination - and so many thinking that this would be a good place to stay...and then some like us - just visiting.

toucan - only in a zoo though!













Panama Bus


















Bocas Del Toro

Island Beach Near Bocas


Capucin Monkey