My 35 day retreat and experience ended on Tuesday when I met up with Clive. I got up very early in the morning because I could not sleep and started out at 630am. like I have heard so many others do. I did not know that it was still dark then. I found the trail and it was then quite dark as it was in the trees. Daylight came soon and I marched along pretty quickly. The last 20km and I felt like the racehorse going to the finish line. I did manage to stop for a cafe con leche on the way.
When I got to Santiago, the 2 girls that I had spent quite a bit of time with were sitting in a cafe watching to see if I would pass. Little did they know that I had started so early. Anyway we walked the last few hundred metre together and had to go to the mass today as a German group had paid for the big incense burner to be swung. Quite a sight. And just as it was finishing Clive arrived - in that crowd. It was a wonderful moment. We all had lunch and I said good-bye to the girls. We saw several pilgrims around town in the drizzle.
It was time to start emerging from my 35 day retreat. I will make another entry another day about the thoughts that I had then. Needless to say, the experience was a once in a lifetime thing and it was wonderful. My body is happy to be walking less these days and I am sleeping well.
Now in Portugal, we have been trying to find the sun. I can walk in the rain and live with the rain but after a certain length of time enough is enough. I do prefer the sunshine ...surprise, surprise.
There is much more English in Portugal that I discovered in Spain... and it is not much good trying my level of Spanish here. I am surprised at the differences between Portugal and Spain. Here in Portugal there is no siesta and the dinner hour starts about 7pm. In Spain it is much later unless you are a pilgrim. Clive noticed that quite a few of the l have been replaced by r in Portuguese. We, being so interested in food mostly appreciate some idea of what we are ordering. We have been enjoying eating and drinking. The coffee con leche, always espresso is as good as Spain. Meals portions here can be huge - lots of fish, stewed meats, potatoes, white bread (tasty), cheese with breakfast, wine (more taste than the Spanish when you go for the house stuff. So we are eating our way around and dousing it down with great liquids. Also lots of walking (but no pack).
Porto is a beautiful city - loads of up and down - a bit like Bristol - always another angle on the hill. We walked kms that day. Catching the bus or train is easy here. We catch whichever has the closer station. Yesterday we investigated another hilly, medieval university town, Coimbra and of course walked tons more. Today we are in a picturesque town - all white old houses built around an old castle and fortress. Lots of daytrippers here. We expect to get to Lisbon in 2 or 3 days and then on to the south coast. It is rather nice that the journeys on the train or bus are only a couple of hours so it seems like another form of entertainment.
Saturday, May 31, 2008
Wednesday, May 21, 2008
Day 30 Sarria, 21.4km approx. today
I found an internet cafe today - the first one since I left home. All the rest have been in the albergues.
It started out as a sunny day. I had a wonderful time walking - I am choosing to walk mostly alone these days. I do like my own company. One is also more receptive to one´s surroundings and other people. Also it allows me to slow down when I want, - smell the roses, meet others at coffee breaks and so on. I find myself more willing to stop and smile or chat with the old guys working in the farmyards, take photos, etc. I walked with a wonderful German girl for an hour today, then when I wandered the town I ended up chatting with 2 Danish women and sitting in their room in the pouring rain. Then I carried on and found this cafe.
I am savouring the moment - I love the walking, I feel so fit, I love stopping for morning coffee and chatting with others. I love the sense of becoming familiar with a whole community of walkers. People are losing their ethnic stereotype and all of the individuals are smiling and connecting even without language. I love eating in all of the little restaurants - dark wood or granite, small, very busy staff and just so great. I really don´t want it to end in some ways. 35 days of walking is amazing averaging 25km per day. At times I walked very quickly trying to get to the destination and enjoy the rest of the day there. There was also alot of pressure on the albergues for places to stay. Now the albergues are closer together and there does not seem to be the same pressure. I feel myself slowing down and just loving every moment of being out as a wanderer.
Each albergue has been a unique experience - some more memorable than others. For instance today is a very small place - 15 beds, lots of space, lots of hot water, a kitchen - if you want it, a small back garden and a restaurant next door for this evening. The owner has paintings from the retired british police officer who is settling up the valley that I chatted to this morning. I so easily meet and mix with the people everywhere.
I am thinking of what walk I would like to do next. There are lots of choices and I love it so much. I wonder if Clive would ever be interested?...and others. What an awesome world out here....so big and so small.
I can hardly keep the days straight and they all run one into another. However I will record a few details of the past week most recent memory first.
It started out as a sunny day. I had a wonderful time walking - I am choosing to walk mostly alone these days. I do like my own company. One is also more receptive to one´s surroundings and other people. Also it allows me to slow down when I want, - smell the roses, meet others at coffee breaks and so on. I find myself more willing to stop and smile or chat with the old guys working in the farmyards, take photos, etc. I walked with a wonderful German girl for an hour today, then when I wandered the town I ended up chatting with 2 Danish women and sitting in their room in the pouring rain. Then I carried on and found this cafe.
I am savouring the moment - I love the walking, I feel so fit, I love stopping for morning coffee and chatting with others. I love the sense of becoming familiar with a whole community of walkers. People are losing their ethnic stereotype and all of the individuals are smiling and connecting even without language. I love eating in all of the little restaurants - dark wood or granite, small, very busy staff and just so great. I really don´t want it to end in some ways. 35 days of walking is amazing averaging 25km per day. At times I walked very quickly trying to get to the destination and enjoy the rest of the day there. There was also alot of pressure on the albergues for places to stay. Now the albergues are closer together and there does not seem to be the same pressure. I feel myself slowing down and just loving every moment of being out as a wanderer.
Each albergue has been a unique experience - some more memorable than others. For instance today is a very small place - 15 beds, lots of space, lots of hot water, a kitchen - if you want it, a small back garden and a restaurant next door for this evening. The owner has paintings from the retired british police officer who is settling up the valley that I chatted to this morning. I so easily meet and mix with the people everywhere.
I am thinking of what walk I would like to do next. There are lots of choices and I love it so much. I wonder if Clive would ever be interested?...and others. What an awesome world out here....so big and so small.
I can hardly keep the days straight and they all run one into another. However I will record a few details of the past week most recent memory first.
Tuesday, May 20, 2008
Day 29 Tricastela 25 km
I walked alone all day! I separated myself from Helen and Allsion. It was wonderful. I walked through clouds, moving clouds, sunshine, pouring torrential rain, mud and so on. I wished that the day would never end. I was warm comfortable (except for the rain on my glasses), loving the changing weather and all. I walked with a couple of French ladies for an hour. One was walking in memory of her husband whom she had wanted to do this with but he passed away two years ago. Then I walked with a German guy for a short while and then on my own. Stopped for lunch in the pouring rain and had a wonderful bowl of soup. The food is changing slightly in Galicia - and the torrential rain that comes with warm soupl
Monday, May 19, 2008
Day 28 LaFaba -The Stuttgart confraternity 25.6km approx.
A day of brilliant sunshine with the last 2 km. straight up. A good workout at the end of our walk today. A little too much walking on the roadside today - I prefer country lanes.
Helen, Allison and I were going to have dinner at the small cafe overlooking the hills and then I invited 2 more. So we were 5 women over 40 with 3 languages and 4 nationalities. I thought that was pretty cool.
There was a chapel service that most of the 40 people in the albergue went to. It was a wonderful stone chapel and the priest in his brown cloth robe with the string around the middle. A few lines in German, English, French and the bulk in Spanish. Trying to bridge the languages and the commonality of humankind I guess.
Helen, Allison and I were going to have dinner at the small cafe overlooking the hills and then I invited 2 more. So we were 5 women over 40 with 3 languages and 4 nationalities. I thought that was pretty cool.
There was a chapel service that most of the 40 people in the albergue went to. It was a wonderful stone chapel and the priest in his brown cloth robe with the string around the middle. A few lines in German, English, French and the bulk in Spanish. Trying to bridge the languages and the commonality of humankind I guess.
Sunday, May 18, 2008
Day 27 Villafranca, 31.6km
The rain threatened and the clouds moved around but fortune was on our side today and we enjoyed the good weather. A little soreness in some tendon in my foot but nothing too significant. I see that blisters are no longer but that some suffer other injuries with tendons, ligaments, etc.
Enjoyed a communal dinner of a local speciality - a bunch of pork stuff in a sac and well who knows what - but hey try it all. Not great but great fun. The only albergue that I probably wouldnt recommend other than Burgos (and a new one is opening there soon).
A wonderful sunny afternoon speaking with a French Canadian who did a massive walk 2 years ago on a different route and then this one, also a South African. So it makes for an interesting sunny afternoon.
Enjoyed a communal dinner of a local speciality - a bunch of pork stuff in a sac and well who knows what - but hey try it all. Not great but great fun. The only albergue that I probably wouldnt recommend other than Burgos (and a new one is opening there soon).
A wonderful sunny afternoon speaking with a French Canadian who did a massive walk 2 years ago on a different route and then this one, also a South African. So it makes for an interesting sunny afternoon.
Saturday, May 17, 2008
Day 26 Molinaseca 26 km, Day 25 Rabanal 24 km
Day 26 Molinaseca 26 km,
Great walking in torrential rains!
Day 25 Rabanal 24 km
Stayed at the British confraternity here and it was wonderful. A great couple from New York City with an art gallery and stuff and volunteering here. Amazing people and so hard working making sure that everyone had the best experience. A wonderful garden and sunshine for the afternoon.
Great dinner in a wonderful restaurant.
Day 24 Astorga 17km
A great town to visit - home of chocolate making, the Gaudi museum, a great private hostel where the owners also were related to the first class Gaudi restaurant opposite the museum. If the town has a choice of restaurants I usually ask the host/propietor for a recommendation. I enjoyed the classy restaurant and we got a discount because there is a relationship between the refugio and the restaurant. White table linen (not the usual paper) and first class service (usually the poor waiter/waitress is running to serve so many tables. They do a great job but so many tables). I met two Canmore ladies whilst at lunch so when my friends left I continued socializing and having some wine with them. We, everybody, were so lucky that the sun managed to shine all day as rain was threatening. I enjoyed both the inside and outside of the museum and the Gaudi design. Gaudi seems to have a Disney, castle-like design in some of his buildings. I enjoyed it all so much today wandering the town and stumbling or finding another awesome refugio with lots of character.
Great walking in torrential rains!
Day 25 Rabanal 24 km
Stayed at the British confraternity here and it was wonderful. A great couple from New York City with an art gallery and stuff and volunteering here. Amazing people and so hard working making sure that everyone had the best experience. A wonderful garden and sunshine for the afternoon.
Great dinner in a wonderful restaurant.
Day 24 Astorga 17km
A great town to visit - home of chocolate making, the Gaudi museum, a great private hostel where the owners also were related to the first class Gaudi restaurant opposite the museum. If the town has a choice of restaurants I usually ask the host/propietor for a recommendation. I enjoyed the classy restaurant and we got a discount because there is a relationship between the refugio and the restaurant. White table linen (not the usual paper) and first class service (usually the poor waiter/waitress is running to serve so many tables. They do a great job but so many tables). I met two Canmore ladies whilst at lunch so when my friends left I continued socializing and having some wine with them. We, everybody, were so lucky that the sun managed to shine all day as rain was threatening. I enjoyed both the inside and outside of the museum and the Gaudi design. Gaudi seems to have a Disney, castle-like design in some of his buildings. I enjoyed it all so much today wandering the town and stumbling or finding another awesome refugio with lots of character.
Wednesday, May 14, 2008
Day 19 Terradillos de los Templos 26.5k, 20 Bercians del Real Camino 23.8k, 21 Reliegos 20.8k, Day 22 Leon 8k, 23 Villadangoes -Hospital de Orbigo 11k
It has been cool days recently threatening rain and sometimes spitting, windy, cool, overcast and sometimes real rain. I had hoped after a few days that it would be over but I guess that the forcast is the same for the next several days. So one is lucky if one walks without real rain. The darks clouds move about. As we travel by foot ¿or any holiday for that matter? weather is a major concern. It affects what you do and how you feel about it. Just sat in the sunshine for an hour and now the thunderstorms are here. So we shall go hour by hour and manage with it - since we canoçt change it. I do prefer sunshine though walking is better in the cool than sitting in cool spaces - the indoor heating is not on or does not exist. I now have a plastic rainjacket so any real wetness will be averted. All is great - feet in great shape, etc.
Had a couple of short days as we looked around Leon yesterday and took the bus through the city. I am travelling with a kiwi and a brit. We do not necessarily walk together but we are happy to eat and join together for getting through the city and making other decsions together. It works great - we enjoy each others company and yet we still all have space and time on our own. Enjoyed eating a few treats yesterday in Leon - ice cream and pastry and visited the cathedral with 2000 square feet of stained glass. I really prefer the walking and rural sites to the urban even though the spanish cities are very pretty in the centre.
Thought that I should give the body a bit of a rest - it doesnot really feel different but will start going further again tomorrow. Today was the first day that walking was not really enjoyable. Aside from the weather the path went beside the highway. Tomorrow it veers away and back to the countryside where one can not hear the traffic.
The maseta = the plains that we walked all last week were a great pleasure = some undulations and a wide open sky. I love that. Starting into the mountains in the next couple of days.
In Bercanios we stayed at a wonderful spot that had a volunteer from Hungary managing it. We all 40 of us helped cook Hungarian stew and the typical spanish salad of iceberg lettuce, tuna, tomato, a bit of onion. It gives a real sense of community = cooking and eating together in a restored old building. Every nationality there had to sing a song = and there were quite a few solos. I am getting used to different languages being spoken and trying to get something from the gesture and intonation. Something about the similarity of all people. That was one of those special nights with a real sense of community and global perspective. We are all pretty much alike, I guess though with some differences.
When the weather is fine, I notice the small things and pay attention to the enviroment. When it is cold and rainy and noisy, I tend to look in front of myself and just carry on. Interesting to observe one self.
I am wondering how the next two weeks will be = guess that time will answer that.
When I have a hot shower after a good workout that is walk, I feel like I have been to the spa. Comb my hair, brush my teeth, cream on my hands and face and soooorelaxed. I do not think that a spa could beat this. A really wonderful feeling. However when the atmosphere is cold or the water is not hot it is not the same wonderful experience. One is so relaxed after a day of walking. just like hiking in the mountains or running in Fish Creek Park.
Had a couple of short days as we looked around Leon yesterday and took the bus through the city. I am travelling with a kiwi and a brit. We do not necessarily walk together but we are happy to eat and join together for getting through the city and making other decsions together. It works great - we enjoy each others company and yet we still all have space and time on our own. Enjoyed eating a few treats yesterday in Leon - ice cream and pastry and visited the cathedral with 2000 square feet of stained glass. I really prefer the walking and rural sites to the urban even though the spanish cities are very pretty in the centre.
Thought that I should give the body a bit of a rest - it doesnot really feel different but will start going further again tomorrow. Today was the first day that walking was not really enjoyable. Aside from the weather the path went beside the highway. Tomorrow it veers away and back to the countryside where one can not hear the traffic.
The maseta = the plains that we walked all last week were a great pleasure = some undulations and a wide open sky. I love that. Starting into the mountains in the next couple of days.
In Bercanios we stayed at a wonderful spot that had a volunteer from Hungary managing it. We all 40 of us helped cook Hungarian stew and the typical spanish salad of iceberg lettuce, tuna, tomato, a bit of onion. It gives a real sense of community = cooking and eating together in a restored old building. Every nationality there had to sing a song = and there were quite a few solos. I am getting used to different languages being spoken and trying to get something from the gesture and intonation. Something about the similarity of all people. That was one of those special nights with a real sense of community and global perspective. We are all pretty much alike, I guess though with some differences.
When the weather is fine, I notice the small things and pay attention to the enviroment. When it is cold and rainy and noisy, I tend to look in front of myself and just carry on. Interesting to observe one self.
I am wondering how the next two weeks will be = guess that time will answer that.
When I have a hot shower after a good workout that is walk, I feel like I have been to the spa. Comb my hair, brush my teeth, cream on my hands and face and soooorelaxed. I do not think that a spa could beat this. A really wonderful feeling. However when the atmosphere is cold or the water is not hot it is not the same wonderful experience. One is so relaxed after a day of walking. just like hiking in the mountains or running in Fish Creek Park.
Saturday, May 10, 2008
Formista, May 9 23.5 km and Carrion de los Condes May 10 Day 18, 22km
..The past couple of days have had lots of thoughts about the weather. It was overcast and cool yesterday ... great for walking. Today was pouring most of the day. The sky is much less interesting when it is raining and the clouds do not have any color. The fields are still an intense green. The feet stayed quite dry in the boots, the waterproof pants were great and the pack stayed dry. Not quite so lucky with the jacket. It was soaked and so was the sweater underneath. The jacket has a nice brim so that I can see with glasses on whilst walking. Anyways I stayed warm and comfortable so the walking was fine. We did a couple of extra km to go the scenic way and not on the highway. So I guess that I am in reasonable shape.
Amazing 18 days of walking in a row and loving it. Halfway point. Apparently it is going to rain tomorrow so all will be well except for the jacket. We are staying at some convent or monastery convent I guess because there are little old nuns around. They dried my sweater and jacket in a drier so I am pretty happy with that. Do not know what I will do tomorrow if it gets this wet again.
Had a super lunch today and we are all trying to stay warm and dry. I usually snack at lunch and eat a big meal in the evening but did it the other way round today. Had lamb stew for the first time and it was great. The company was great, as usual. Will probably not do much tonight and this pm as I want to stay dry.
Amazing 18 days of walking in a row and loving it. Halfway point. Apparently it is going to rain tomorrow so all will be well except for the jacket. We are staying at some convent or monastery convent I guess because there are little old nuns around. They dried my sweater and jacket in a drier so I am pretty happy with that. Do not know what I will do tomorrow if it gets this wet again.
Had a super lunch today and we are all trying to stay warm and dry. I usually snack at lunch and eat a big meal in the evening but did it the other way round today. Had lamb stew for the first time and it was great. The company was great, as usual. Will probably not do much tonight and this pm as I want to stay dry.
Thursday, May 8, 2008
Burgos, 8th May
The walking is going great - all the kinks seem to be worked out and I am feeling great. Loving it. The weather has been incredible since the end of the first morning and it may be changing now. It poured last night so there was a pretty slow section walking with red mud clinging to the boots and shoes. So stopped after about 20k and found a nice albergue - the name for the refugios. It has rained somewhat this pm so hopefully it will rain again tonight and we´ll see what tomorrow brings. We are at the beginning of the maseta - the saskatchewan of spain. So I am looking forward to that - see how I like it. So far I love the openess but then it is not totally flat yet.
Burgos is quite small and has an incredible cathedral so a few of us enjoyed that. I love walking through the villages and out in the countryside - perfect for me.
The people that we saw at the beginning seem to change daily - sometimes you see familiar faces every few days. After a while there are new and some that you recognize.
Enjoyed chatting with a rather spiritual Portugese young fellow the other day whose aunt paid for his train ticket so that he could have a ´spiritual experience´´and whose family doesnt understand him. He feels that too many people are here as tourist and not pilgrims.
Last night I chatted with an American that is doing the camino in reverse (due to logistics) and he at 25 told me his story of giving up alcohol and then marijuana and drugs - all very interesting - recognizing, changing, and looking back at his lifestyle and how he no longer fits in with his friends at home.
Chatted with a Canadian interested in bird and photography today. And then I seem to have dinner most evenings with my kiwi friend and the minister from Didcott, UK. All very interesting.
Interesting seeing relationships and how people work things out. The Australian couple that I saw last week. He was so competitve and driving and she was trying to please but really couldn´´t keep up. He was so competitve that he raced past some German guys to prove a point (I don´t know what point). Then the Dutch couple who discuss and agree if one is tired then they stop. The young Canadian couple - he injured and she happy to wait out a couple of days for recovery. Groups of 3 are interesting - often 3 women or a couple and a woman. Sometimes there is resentment because one holds up the other and they don´t speak openly about their issues. So sometimes I might be hearing some stuff. Interesting how people link up, separate, get together, enjoy each other or not. Everything on the continuum exists.
I get to do it my way - and what a wonderful opportunity to discover what that might be. Anyways off on the maseta for the next week.
Burgos is quite small and has an incredible cathedral so a few of us enjoyed that. I love walking through the villages and out in the countryside - perfect for me.
The people that we saw at the beginning seem to change daily - sometimes you see familiar faces every few days. After a while there are new and some that you recognize.
Enjoyed chatting with a rather spiritual Portugese young fellow the other day whose aunt paid for his train ticket so that he could have a ´spiritual experience´´and whose family doesnt understand him. He feels that too many people are here as tourist and not pilgrims.
Last night I chatted with an American that is doing the camino in reverse (due to logistics) and he at 25 told me his story of giving up alcohol and then marijuana and drugs - all very interesting - recognizing, changing, and looking back at his lifestyle and how he no longer fits in with his friends at home.
Chatted with a Canadian interested in bird and photography today. And then I seem to have dinner most evenings with my kiwi friend and the minister from Didcott, UK. All very interesting.
Interesting seeing relationships and how people work things out. The Australian couple that I saw last week. He was so competitve and driving and she was trying to please but really couldn´´t keep up. He was so competitve that he raced past some German guys to prove a point (I don´t know what point). Then the Dutch couple who discuss and agree if one is tired then they stop. The young Canadian couple - he injured and she happy to wait out a couple of days for recovery. Groups of 3 are interesting - often 3 women or a couple and a woman. Sometimes there is resentment because one holds up the other and they don´t speak openly about their issues. So sometimes I might be hearing some stuff. Interesting how people link up, separate, get together, enjoy each other or not. Everything on the continuum exists.
I get to do it my way - and what a wonderful opportunity to discover what that might be. Anyways off on the maseta for the next week.
Monday, May 5, 2008
May 4 & 5 Ages and Viloria de Rioja
It has been a wonderful 24 hours. Such wonderful experiences! Yesterday evening in the refugio with 10 beds (8 women) in a wonderfully old building with bigger beds. We had dinner together made by the hostess. They are an Italian women and her Brazilian husband who met on the camino 9 years ago. They feed and house ´pilgrims´every night and rely on donations instead of a formal payment. It was a very touching dinner. Everyone introduced herself in her own language - one Slovanian, 3 German, 3 Dutch and the hostess who was in tears having all women. Then we talked a bit about the camino and what we didn´t like (for me the garbage that is gradually accumulating in the bush and of course for all the number of travellers. Then we were encouraged to ´sleep in´and not to rise before 7. I was so glad to stay here and be touched by it all. However as I walked today I thought about them embracing the ´camino spirit´and I thought about how the host left Brazil and his first wife with 4 children to raise. It also appeared that she did all of the cooking and since he found building stone walls too difficult so his wife did it all. Maybe he is just a loaf living a pleasant lifestyle. But while I was there I embraced it all including the quiet, the sunshine and the noise of trickling water.
Today since I started later, I saw next to noone all day. It was wonderful. I was going to stop after 20km because that is what my mind was thinking. However my body wanted to go on. So I walked 37km today and I feel incredible - probably a little tired. It started overcast and misty and then around noon the sun broke through. I went from rolling countryside through trees and then back to rolling countryside. You can see what is becoming important in my life these days!
I arrived in Ages at 5pm after walking really very fast and taking some great little breaks. Since the 2 refugios were already full, I ended up at a little very very old house with 6 matresses on the second floor and a lady who cooked supper in a real little old fashioned kitchen. A day from hundreds of years ago. We had a wonderful time and dinner with salad, soup and potato pie - tonight 3 Germans, l Austrian, 1 Kiwi and myself.
The most wonderful time - and without that dog bite and having lunch on a bench yesterday I would never have found last nights accommodation and then tonight if I had not been so late I would not be where I am. I definitely enjoy the small refugios - they seem a more authentic experience and get you away from á group´.
Today since I started later, I saw next to noone all day. It was wonderful. I was going to stop after 20km because that is what my mind was thinking. However my body wanted to go on. So I walked 37km today and I feel incredible - probably a little tired. It started overcast and misty and then around noon the sun broke through. I went from rolling countryside through trees and then back to rolling countryside. You can see what is becoming important in my life these days!
I arrived in Ages at 5pm after walking really very fast and taking some great little breaks. Since the 2 refugios were already full, I ended up at a little very very old house with 6 matresses on the second floor and a lady who cooked supper in a real little old fashioned kitchen. A day from hundreds of years ago. We had a wonderful time and dinner with salad, soup and potato pie - tonight 3 Germans, l Austrian, 1 Kiwi and myself.
The most wonderful time - and without that dog bite and having lunch on a bench yesterday I would never have found last nights accommodation and then tonight if I had not been so late I would not be where I am. I definitely enjoy the small refugios - they seem a more authentic experience and get you away from á group´.
Sunday, May 4, 2008
Viloria del Rioja, Sunday May 4, 2008
Well, life is certainly interesting and sometimes it is so relaxing and then so intense.
After the long day and then the short day my mind had a discussion with my body. I decided that my body was not getting stronger but rather somewhat tired - I think the heavy load was too much for the whole trip - seems fine in the Rockies for a few days but this is more than a few days. I was trying to figure out what I could get rid of and how. Soon I was thinking about my yoga mat and knowing how much I enjoyed it every day but also how much it weighed. After another km or so I stopped and cut 2/3 off. It felt liberating. I left detergent and underwear behind, I decided only to carry one liter of water in my camel back instead of 2 (saves another 1kg) and then I mailed 1.8kg to the hotel in Santiago. So now my pack feels much more manageable. Heck I can take if off and on anywhere and I think that my left calf is happier. When that muscle was getting tired, I knew that I was carrying too much. Now the distances seem shorter and I am feeling good. I pop blisters every day and they are getting good calluses - the liquid pressure hurts for a few minutes and popping relieves them. Blisters are caused by heat and friction so when I stop now I take off my boots and air dry them and let the boots and socks get a little drier. A great American gal volunteering in a refugio gave me those tips as well as specific exercises for my calf - she is a massage therapist and yoga teacher from Salt Lake and the camino meant so much to her that she is volunteering now. Her tips were great and she was great.
Yesterday I walked with the Methodist minister for the day - a good pace we had. Then dinner with a small group. I really don´t want to be part of a group as I find it somewhat limiting and missing following your own way. So today I chose to do as usual and walk alone. Unfortunately I got a nip that tore the skin when I passed a farm with a dog. I carried on to the next town, had coffee and a sandwich then figured out a plan. I called a cab and went back to the clinic at the previous town. Though a vet walking behind me reassured me that I could not get rabies, I thought it best to get checked out. So I took a cab back, got a tetnus shot (don´t remember when my last one was so this can´t hurt) and though they didn´t seem to understand the term rabies they obviously knew what to look for. Just like the vet they said that it was a superficial wound and treated that. So I was relieved. The cab driver then took me back to where he picked me up. I even passed some of the people again that I had passed in the morning so it didn´t affect my speed. Tears came easily after I started to make plans to find a cab. When you get physically tired, you feel some vulnerability. Several people offered to come with me but I reassured them that I was fine in spite of the tears. Quite a caring attitude around here though the Spanish are sometimes quite curt. I don´t blame them - there are always once only patrons and they do so much with so little staff. The cab was a nice treat, the reasssurance from the doctor (as well as the vet) were all welcome. The people around that I had met were all concerned. I am grateful that all is well. I
I have walked a few more km and had planned to go another 7 or 8 but I have walked into a private refugio with peaceful music, a computer, and only 12 beds and dinner is shared here. So though it is only noon I have decided to stay here and enjoy - may have to try the yoga on that small piece of mat. It will be a change from a room with a bucket load of beds. Also no-one can get up here before 7 am. In some of the places people race out at 5 am. Not me! I am here for the journey. So I didn´t really want to be with the same english group tonight and guess what - I won´t - taking time. They said that they would look out for me - I will be glad to see them in a couple of days.
Hard to believe that this is day 11 of walking. More in a few days.
After the long day and then the short day my mind had a discussion with my body. I decided that my body was not getting stronger but rather somewhat tired - I think the heavy load was too much for the whole trip - seems fine in the Rockies for a few days but this is more than a few days. I was trying to figure out what I could get rid of and how. Soon I was thinking about my yoga mat and knowing how much I enjoyed it every day but also how much it weighed. After another km or so I stopped and cut 2/3 off. It felt liberating. I left detergent and underwear behind, I decided only to carry one liter of water in my camel back instead of 2 (saves another 1kg) and then I mailed 1.8kg to the hotel in Santiago. So now my pack feels much more manageable. Heck I can take if off and on anywhere and I think that my left calf is happier. When that muscle was getting tired, I knew that I was carrying too much. Now the distances seem shorter and I am feeling good. I pop blisters every day and they are getting good calluses - the liquid pressure hurts for a few minutes and popping relieves them. Blisters are caused by heat and friction so when I stop now I take off my boots and air dry them and let the boots and socks get a little drier. A great American gal volunteering in a refugio gave me those tips as well as specific exercises for my calf - she is a massage therapist and yoga teacher from Salt Lake and the camino meant so much to her that she is volunteering now. Her tips were great and she was great.
Yesterday I walked with the Methodist minister for the day - a good pace we had. Then dinner with a small group. I really don´t want to be part of a group as I find it somewhat limiting and missing following your own way. So today I chose to do as usual and walk alone. Unfortunately I got a nip that tore the skin when I passed a farm with a dog. I carried on to the next town, had coffee and a sandwich then figured out a plan. I called a cab and went back to the clinic at the previous town. Though a vet walking behind me reassured me that I could not get rabies, I thought it best to get checked out. So I took a cab back, got a tetnus shot (don´t remember when my last one was so this can´t hurt) and though they didn´t seem to understand the term rabies they obviously knew what to look for. Just like the vet they said that it was a superficial wound and treated that. So I was relieved. The cab driver then took me back to where he picked me up. I even passed some of the people again that I had passed in the morning so it didn´t affect my speed. Tears came easily after I started to make plans to find a cab. When you get physically tired, you feel some vulnerability. Several people offered to come with me but I reassured them that I was fine in spite of the tears. Quite a caring attitude around here though the Spanish are sometimes quite curt. I don´t blame them - there are always once only patrons and they do so much with so little staff. The cab was a nice treat, the reasssurance from the doctor (as well as the vet) were all welcome. The people around that I had met were all concerned. I am grateful that all is well. I
I have walked a few more km and had planned to go another 7 or 8 but I have walked into a private refugio with peaceful music, a computer, and only 12 beds and dinner is shared here. So though it is only noon I have decided to stay here and enjoy - may have to try the yoga on that small piece of mat. It will be a change from a room with a bucket load of beds. Also no-one can get up here before 7 am. In some of the places people race out at 5 am. Not me! I am here for the journey. So I didn´t really want to be with the same english group tonight and guess what - I won´t - taking time. They said that they would look out for me - I will be glad to see them in a couple of days.
Hard to believe that this is day 11 of walking. More in a few days.
Thursday, May 1, 2008
May 1, Navaretta
Yesterday was a beautiful walk through hills and seeing villages and a church steeple in the distance that you approach as you get closer to town. It started freezing cold with the wind in my face - lots of clothes including hat, gloves, gortex and shirts. I was feeling pretty good at 20km so pushed on to the next village. After about 1 km it started to get harder - the terrain was easy and the same but my legs were getting tired and my shoulders felt the weight and for the first time the muscle in my left calf was tight. Anyways I got to Longano and got one of the last beds in the refugio. It was up 3 flights - the last set like going to the sky - up in the rafters were about 30 single beds side by side. Enter from the end. Noone snored in the whole room to the best of everyone-s knowledge. In spite of the beams over some beds, all slept well. Kind of funny and certainly friendly.
My mind had a discussion yesterday about whether the mind should be in charge or the body. So I decided that to work hard one must put in effort but then of course in yoga they always say be kind to yourself. So I pushed for the last 10km as the managing mind was in charge. However, today I travelled 10km (instead of the 30 yesterday). I am enjoying the time and hoping that one muscle loosens up. Also I might try to lighten my pack a little at the next town - I don´t expect it to be easy but I wouldn´t object to a little easier.
This is more physically challenging that I had expected and being in shape for it is taking longer than I expected. I tell myself that even hi-performance athletes - and I am not one of those - even take a break to stay in peak shape.
The people - well, I have met a few and watched a few. The thoughtful Portuguese guy, the fun Kiwi, the Irish, the English minister, the friendly great shape Dutch couple and numerous Calgarians and a couple from Kamloops. Then all of those that I can´t understand because they don´t speak English - Germans, French, Italians and trying my Spanish seems a waste of time. I know that I don´t remember much from last year but hey they look at me as those I am nuts some of the time. If they did answer my question I certainly wouldn´t get it anyways except for the body langugage (which can tell a lot). I hate to stereotype but yesterday, with permission I sat in a chair. When the ówner´ returned he glared straight down at me, took the chair beside, turned it 180degrees away from me, shoved his ass right into my knees and sat there. So I stood up, got another chair and sat a few feet away with my French Canadian friend. The rudeness of some people. Some of these ´pilgrims´are running a race and not seeing much - it seems to me. Every day I see people racing to leave and racing to the next point. Now it seems that there is going to be a shortage of beds at some of these places. Some time in the near future they will need to develop a system of allotting so many on per day. There are more people that places available. And of course, some people leave garbage out - not much - but it is there - so some education needs to be in order, I guess.
I am not sure how I will handle it all - I don´t plan on rushing from place to place - and 35 days really seems to be about the minimum - 20 km is comfortable for me so far. Who knows maybe one day I will wake up and it will be a piece of cake but somehow I think that I am dreaming. I have always liked to push a little - but recognizing how much - to create the right balance for me is important.
ENough rambling for now and I´ll share my experience again later.
My mind had a discussion yesterday about whether the mind should be in charge or the body. So I decided that to work hard one must put in effort but then of course in yoga they always say be kind to yourself. So I pushed for the last 10km as the managing mind was in charge. However, today I travelled 10km (instead of the 30 yesterday). I am enjoying the time and hoping that one muscle loosens up. Also I might try to lighten my pack a little at the next town - I don´t expect it to be easy but I wouldn´t object to a little easier.
This is more physically challenging that I had expected and being in shape for it is taking longer than I expected. I tell myself that even hi-performance athletes - and I am not one of those - even take a break to stay in peak shape.
The people - well, I have met a few and watched a few. The thoughtful Portuguese guy, the fun Kiwi, the Irish, the English minister, the friendly great shape Dutch couple and numerous Calgarians and a couple from Kamloops. Then all of those that I can´t understand because they don´t speak English - Germans, French, Italians and trying my Spanish seems a waste of time. I know that I don´t remember much from last year but hey they look at me as those I am nuts some of the time. If they did answer my question I certainly wouldn´t get it anyways except for the body langugage (which can tell a lot). I hate to stereotype but yesterday, with permission I sat in a chair. When the ówner´ returned he glared straight down at me, took the chair beside, turned it 180degrees away from me, shoved his ass right into my knees and sat there. So I stood up, got another chair and sat a few feet away with my French Canadian friend. The rudeness of some people. Some of these ´pilgrims´are running a race and not seeing much - it seems to me. Every day I see people racing to leave and racing to the next point. Now it seems that there is going to be a shortage of beds at some of these places. Some time in the near future they will need to develop a system of allotting so many on per day. There are more people that places available. And of course, some people leave garbage out - not much - but it is there - so some education needs to be in order, I guess.
I am not sure how I will handle it all - I don´t plan on rushing from place to place - and 35 days really seems to be about the minimum - 20 km is comfortable for me so far. Who knows maybe one day I will wake up and it will be a piece of cake but somehow I think that I am dreaming. I have always liked to push a little - but recognizing how much - to create the right balance for me is important.
ENough rambling for now and I´ll share my experience again later.
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