Seim Reap, Koh Chang, Bkk and Home!

Angkor Wat Cambodia




Well, it has been interesting and there are differences in different countries and even within the country.
Siem Reap, the home of Angor Wat - one of the wonders of the world was a series of temples,palaces and possibly even mausoleums built anywhere from about 1000-1400AD. It covers a vast expanse of land, and feels not unlike Stanley Park with its big trees and spaces of green grass and occasional roads through especially when you are out on the bicycle just enjoying the atmosphere. We visited ruins for 3 days - 2 on tuk-tuk and one on a bike. The irony of how man puts so much effort to make such magnificent structures reaching up and detailed carvings of life in stone. The decay caused by the environment - including trees growing up through some of this, and the effect of elements on the outside wearing it down as well as intentional destruction during the era of Pol Pot and his reckless idealistic regime to create 'the perfect agriculture based society including no money and no intellectuals' through genocide.... Nature and mankind -so much effort and how they conflict with each other. Angor Wat is a world heritage sight and now much there is much effort to restore it. Also the town is sprouting 5star hotels and numerous guesthouses every month. More and more people are travelling and visiting right now. It was refreshing to see that some of the blind and disabled are forming musical groups and trying to eke out a living. Also people selling trinkets and postcards, etc. There are so many people missing limbs in Cambodia and so many challenges. Tourists are coming, things are changing, organizations are trying to make a difference. Education is progressing - though not as much as Vietnam (in my estimation) and some people are very successful and enterprising. Still difficulties for a long time yet...

From here to Koh Chang, an island in Thailand for relaxing by the beach. Again the theme of more tourists and consequently many new 5star hotels, guesthouses, restaurants and bars. One gal I met suggested that every 6 months that you would not recognize it from the previous 6 months. Maybe an exaggeration but everywhere in Vietnam, Cambodia and this beach in Thailand has indicated that tourism is an anticipated and real boost to the economies right now.
Again we stayed in a brand new small hotel. Here we enjoyed 4 days relaxing at the beach. I enjoyed a Thai massage (or workout?) each day - they are rather addictive for me - a place just off the beach. Clive even managed one massage (not Thai but rather oil where they do move the skeleton about but rather massage the muscles)! He wasn't running back for more - hey he had the experience though.
Here in Koh Chang it all seems a little more first world. Maybe not seeing all of the disabled persons any more just made it seem that way. I do like relaxing on the beach. By the time we have breakfast and I do my yoga it is nearly noon! So much to do in a day...find 3 meals - we never missed a meal the whole time that we were gone!, walk the beach, get a massage, feel the sunshine, beer at sunset. We did go snorkelling at several islands for a day and enjoyed that. The coral was pretty good and saw quite a few fish as well - a day on different beaches!

What a shame that the end is rushing towards us so fast. We had considered (or I had) the north of Thailand or even Laos but we just ran out of time. Two weeks before the end, I started to calculate what we could do without rushing too much. I think that Clive is ready for home - he is great when there are no hassles but finds home pretty comfortable. Knowing that home is in a deep freeze and I am in a dreamworld makes it good to go home but maybe a week or more on the beach would be lovely. ...such are the choices...

Another sunny day and a bus to Bangkok - sun every day all day since Dalat except for one or two short downpours in Saigon so the weather has been wonderful. Bangkok and Khao San Road, a hangout for younger people and holiday makers for two days. We zipped out to a couple of sights and wandered the hectic street for a couple of evenings. That was enough here. They are also building some pretty nice new hotels but occupany was down due to the troubles earlier in the month with the closing of Bangkok airport. We found a super taxi driver (I have his card) as so many drivers do not want to use the meters. Also the tuk-tuk (motor scooters with a trailer body to take passengers) is nearly extinct - just a few left to hassle the tourist and take them to shops and do their method of charging about 3times the taxi fare and unwilling to negotiate. Interesting... probably none will be there on our next trip to Bangkok. Also fewer street vendors than last time and more nice hotels.

Time for Clive and I to separate. Clive flew home through Seoul and I came via Singapore, LA. Had part of an afternoon and an evening to look around Singapore. What a place!! So many new skyscrapers, clean streets, interesting to wander - from the riverside and cool bridges to various temples including Hindu, Tao, Buddhist, Christian. The Singaporians (or the few that I met) seemed intensely proud of Singapore. They consider themselves tolerant of other religions and peoples. They provide some tertiary education to Asians from other countries, some immigrants from Asian countries are given the opportunity to immigrate. Pretty tough rules here - the death penalty for murder, drugs, possession of firearms and kidnapping with the intention to murder. More hangings here than anywhere else in the world. Also it was explained to me that people are forced to save (through deductions on salary) for accommodation so that the goal of home ownership can be achieved by most everyone. Interesting enforced savings and the rest of the western world tries to give youngsters credit cards. It seems that there are quite a few laws and the people so far seem to like the lifestyle that it has given them. As someone said to me - we have to be fiscally responsible and watch our debt (or lack of) as a nation since we are a financial centre.. This is a small island to support over 4 million people. I guess that they are finding ways to do it. They seem very proud that a big resort and casino is opening next month.
I enjoyed my experience in Singapore - but again it is a city and all brand new so probably only a stopover destination.
Then it was several flights and a long time to get home to central heating and freezing outdoors.

Sihanoukville - still

We have relaxed at this beach city for the past few days. Wonderful warm sunshine, clear blue water, fine sandy beaches....and then some contrasts. There are many peddlars and beggars on the beach selling manicures, pedicures, massages, sunglasses, fruit, bracelets, crayfish and so on as well as beggars that are without a limb or blind so it is kind of mixed. There is lots of development going on here and I understand that only 4 years ago that there were no cars here. Now the standard Lexus, BMW, Toyota and so on are here. It seems that the Russian mafia owns the Snake House - a restaurant with lots of glassed in snakes to view while eating. There were 3 Hummers in their yard. They are building a huge disco with an old plane in the centre that will have rooms to rent. Apparently they are building a bridge across to some islands and expect to build the most expensive resort in the world. Anyways lots of entrepeneurs here! Here from someone today who tells he that he is a retired CSIS person and he tells us that the police chief's wife has a brothel with 35 women employees. Sex trade is pretty highly developed here. Also there are so many charities working here and information for the tourist to buy only from children attending school, etc so hopefully there is a better alternative to begging. I had a massage from the Seeing Hands place today - they employ and train blind people to give a massage. They drive them to and from work and allow them to live doing trained work. These people lost their vision either from missiles or from disease and some were born that way.
A difficult society with such wealth and such poverty and such corruption - and so many people aiming to get in on the development from abroad. Hopefully it will maintain peace for time but it does not fill one with certainty. Quite a few people enjoying it here. As I say beaches and so on are great but then there is the ever present problem of the environment and garbage disposal and clean water and sanitation.

Sihanoukville, Cambodia

Well, we enjoyed the Mekong trip - the ricebasket of Vietnam. Clive did not enjoy the last day and the hard seat. For me it was long but the first 2.5days were relaxing and well organized.
Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia, seems a great place. Big wide streets, great restaurants (do you detect a theme everywhere?) with the help of Lonely Planet - and cheap lager beer. It is easy to navigate and quite relaxing with a few sights to see. We did go to the Genocide Museum which was a school and then a prison. It documents some of the atrocities and gives stories and faces to a few of the people murdered during the Khmer regime of '75 - '79. Also a society that abolished money and education and many other things - but not the work of the proletariat! and then killing people for no reason. How many societies experience this horrific genocide! But then I guess people disagree at all levels - from war and international disagreements all the way down to friends and families. Some thread of disagreement and competition. The result nowadays is a society where there are lots of Lexus, BMWs and we even saw a Hummer; and then people without limbs or blind and begging everywhere. There seems to be lots of wealth and lots of poverty - in contrast to what we saw in Vietnam. There seems to be international aid and seemingly lots of corruption. Hopefully the average citizen will fare better as time goes on.

About the food.... some changes since Vietnam - missing the strong strong coffee with condensed milk, the tables always had soy sauce and hot sauce on them, the flavours were always pleasant and pretty mild - more upscale usually better cooked. Here in Cambodia there is a more Thai influence - last night we had fish with the lime juice, sugar, salt and pepper for a sauce. They use lots of coconut milk and the rice seems a little sweeter. These countries are not afraid to use sugar in their cooking. In the city the food seems better than at the beach - swings and roundabouts but we are enjoying.

Another thing that you see as soon as you enter Cambodia is lots of shrines, Buddhist temples and so on being constructed from cement. Trying to rebuild a devastated country.
The first night we could not understand the ATM and then we learned that everything is done in American dollars unless you get change for less than $1. Anyways that is so easy now. None of the l7,000 /vietnamese dong to the American dollar and 13,000 dong to the Canadian dollar.

Chau Doc, Mekong Delta

We are on a three day tour from Saigon to Phnom Penh so we go where we are guided. We have travelled with a bus company, Sinh and had good experiences so deliberated and checked a couple of others but in the end went with a company that we have had experience with. So it is working out great but the "blanket tour" is still part of the deal - ie stopping now and again at handicraft shops, etc. though there is much less of that as we go up the Mekong due to fewer tourists and tourism development here.

We zipped into and out of Saigon or HoChiMinh City. We did go on a tour of the tunnels that were used in the Vietnam War - pretty tiny and very well developed. Then with all of the noise,wide streets and unbelieveable traffic we decided to depart Saigon the next day on this tour to the Mekong. So we got up at 5:30 am and did our fast walk tour of some important buildings, went back for breakfast at 7 and left on the tour at 8. Sure we have been to Saigon. We visited and ate at 3 fabulous restaurants - that is great culture and education (of my stomach at least) and enjoyed the best sorbets and iced Vietnamese coffees as well.

The traffic is something that you could write a book on. The drivers honk on their horns quite lightly and often suggesting or sometimes trying to demand that some motorcycle move over. I tell you the bigger you are on the road the longer you should last...so pedestrians feel pretty low on the food chain... When an accident does happen the motorcycle stays put and it gets chalked out and measured after the police arrive - we have seen several and the victim is usually gone but the shoes or helmet are still at the scene. There is a technique for crossing the streets but it is tougher in Saigon than Hanoi. In Hanoi you go slow and it all works out. I'm not so sure that works quite as well in Saigon. And there are so many lanes to cross. There are traffic lights - eventually most pay attention but not if you just want to nip around the corner. There are 9 million people in Saigon and 6 million motorcycles and some fancy cars and some buses.

We have seen so much greenery throughout Vietnam. There are beautiful flowers, bushes, trees, arrangements everywhere - in traffic circles, town entrances, everywhere you see magnificent arrangements. This must take a ton of labour as everything much grow like weeds. We see gardeners everywhere.

We saw lots of badmintin and tennis in various schools and common areas as we came down the coast. Here in the Mekong we are seeing soccer and volleyball in the sandy areas that are empty.

The floors in the country are always so clean - the cleanest part. In fact at one rest stop yesterday they expected you to take off your street shoes and use their flip flops. That was an extreme example. But at a hotel the other day we went to rent bikes. We had to go through the kitchen area where they eat on the floor and so shoes off to go in and see the bikes. Every floor you could eat off of. This does not spread to the out of doors and spitting and throwing garbage everywhere. though a lot is picked up every night. It seems that recycling plastic bottles and cans is everywhere so that does help the garbage issue. The Mekong is experiencing problems with polluted water - wash yourself, clothes, drink, shit everything happens here and now the pesticides from the great 3 crop a year production are going in as well. So the great rice production (an exporter in recent years) due to private ownership will not last forever.

I am really loving the travelling and looking forward to seeing Cambodia in the coming days but I also look forward to coming home and seeing friends and family.

Mui Ne - a beach resort

We are gauging the weather and doing very well. Enjoyed our trip up to Dalat and the mountain air - caught a waft of the humid sea air first. We had so much fun on a motorscooter (automatic for all the twists and turns). It was a fun adventure using the Lonely Planet map and guessing at some of the signs. We visited Tiger Falls! named for the 30or 40 foot cement made tiger...and we were the only tourists down some muddy sometimes and potholed sometimes road. We visited the coolest house in Dalat called the Crazy House - the architect was the daughter of the successor to HoChiMinh. It was built like trees and a fantasy with rooms named after animals. After a while it lacked creativity but it was fun to begin with. My kind of culture! I sure do like being our own tour guide. You never quite know what might happen or who you might meet. It makes for gret adventuring - my style.

We have come to the coast and are loving the warm sea air and the beach type life today. You know - eat, walk, read, swim and generally laze about. Hope to carry on for a couple more days - expect to ride bikes tomorrow to explore and burn a few calories so that we can eat and drink more. We have sampled one bottle of local red wine and one bottle of local white wine. Think that we will stick to beer (lagers here and huge bottles) and Vietnamese coffee. Clive likes the hot coffee and I often prefer the ice. Interesting how every country has a way of making coffee. Here it is condensed milk in the bottom of the glass and then very strong coffee often passing through a fine filter slowly. Is it really that different from American coffee, latte and so on? Anyways we are enjoying.

We are getting used to things here and really enjoying - sunshine is great, food is great, prices are great -sometimes we are a little frustrated by the obvious cheating and misunderstanding but we are learning that is life here. So funny today we ordered a sandwich (a first) and asked about the bread for it. They show us a nice French roll and we nod that's great. The sandwiches arrived with plain white bread - they were tasty but interesting communication issue. Sometimes it seems that there is agreement but the communication has been lost somewhere - sometimes it seems kind of convenient for their business like minds. Anyways it is all small stuff and everything is working out well. Other travellers have similar experiences. It keeps you on your toes a bit.

Interesting to know that 50% of the population here is under 30years of age. No wonder we see hundreds and hundreds of kids on bikes every day (the terrain is usually flat) cycling to one of the many schools - all in their uniforms.

In the hotels there is always a poster mentioning that explosives are not allowed in the room, that valuables should not be left in the room and that prostitutes are not allowed. ...at dinner tonight we observed two old French guys with two young Vietnamese girls - not a word was spoken between the genders. One girl made shapes out of the napkins and the other covered her face. The guys chatted occasionally. ...Clive suggested for a moment that maybe they are related by business...pretty sad and obvious. The massage parlours all seem pretty much above board and so I enjoyed a massage this afternoon. Relaxing.

Interesting how they keep your passport at the hotels - I guess that they might do that in France as well - but you need to remember to get it before you leave and that is a new routine for us. People we met the other day forgot theirs and that was very difficult to get back since they had already moved on. One day we got a call from reception that they needed our passport as the police might come and inspect in the middle of the night.
Another day I was sitting on the front of a big boat and so were a couple of other passengers. Suddenly the guy steering the boat says "police, get to the inside of the boat". Like all good passengers we did - and one of the workers continued to sleep in his lawn chair. A good way to get us to move.... fear of the police...how we all respond to that....
Actually we did see the cops pulling over scooters when they were not wearing helmets - a bit like our speeding tickets.

Life does look pretty prosperous here. The roads outside of the city are in top shape. There are tons of schools and tons of hotels. I don't know how they make a business - everywhere that we have been there have been rooms pretty much everywhere. Are we out of season...or are less people coming (there are lots here)??

So a couple more days on the beach and then we will pull ourselves away as the visas run out at the end of the month.

Hue and relaxing a bit more

We have enjoyed Hue, less hectic than Hanoi. Mẻt a 73year old American couple travelling indêpendently today so hopefully we can do it for a while longer. Clive got a little frazzled and I got a little annoyed at the beginning. But we are learning a bit how to travel here. Enjoyed dỉnnẻr tonight with a French - Vietnamese couple living in the US - besides moaning about US healthcare system and saying that they are allowed l visit per year to the doctor at a cost of $40. They figure $30,000 for the healthcare for the intended pregnancy within the next year! Also interesting to hear their travel frustrations. They got to Halong Bay on a bus and then could not buy a ticket from the dock at the ticket kiosk to the island. They would only sell to travel agent people. So they ended up on a package like everybody else but with a lot more hassle. Then they could not buy a train ticket to Hue for the overnight train so the agent said. He booked them on a tourist overnight bus sleeper which turned out to be all Vietnamese and not the same standard. So they are learning that you must check more than one source - and he speaks some Vietnamese.

Managed to see a great traditional folk music on a boat on the river last night. We thoroughly enjoyed it. We were the only Westerners on board. Three others got on the boat, looked around and got off. They missed a real cultural experience. We put a candle on a floating cardboard on the river and made a wish. A couple of the Vietnamese were excited to be doing this for the first time in their lives and they took pictures with us. So much fun!

Caught the bus down to HoiAn, a beautiful town about 4 hours south of Hue today. Didn't see a thing because it was pouring torrentially all day. This afternoon we waded in our sandals, ponchos and rolled up wet pants (though it is pleasantly warm) and had a superb lunch and then the freshest French pastry and latte after. So we want to go there for dinner and breakfast! priorities!! Hopefully the rain will stop and we will be able to enjoy it here - like one should.

So yes, we are figuring it out and getting the hang of it. I would so hate to be on a tour. This is obviously more difficult but then you really learn about how things operate and I certainly love the spontaneity and not being certain of what is coming next. Makes it an adventure for me. Clive doesn't like to many surprises - I guess that I don't really either but the alternative is not at all attractive to me. Also if the weather is not great we change our plans accordingly and do not have to go with pre-booking. We met Swiss today sitting in the coffee shop - this was to have been their beach day - maybe torrential downpours are less comfortable but more interesting - and well the food awesome here.

Hanoi, Sapa, Halong Bay

Well, we are trying to figure out Vietnam. So far it is not a love story. Hanoi is incredibly hectic and noisy though not as much as Bangkok. Tough to cross the streets though. With all of the flooding we are making choices and still trying to see stuff.
We went up to Halong Bay to see the limestone cliffs jutting out of the water like tiny islands (karsts). It was all quite pretty though with overcast skies and warm days some of the color contrast between the land and sea is lost. We spent a couple of days on CatBa Island. We signed up with some kind of package. The prices vary incredibly and you never know exactly what you are buying even when you think that you do. We got on the bus with one guide and got passed to another guide at the boat dock, another boat while on the boat, someone else at the ferry terminal and someone else at the hotel. All of these guides - no paper, no voucher - just follow me and trust that all will fall into place. It does - I don't know how but you don't feel in control. Man oh man - I guess that all of these operations intertwine and the agents suck the money off the top. We are trying to decide if packages where everything is looked after is best or not - but then there is no quality assurance. Will keep posted as we figure it out!
Every nationality seems to be travelling - lots of Asians and also lots of Europeans out for 2 or 3 weeks - the global world of travel. And Vietnam seems to be a hotspot with buckets of tourists - and we are on the tourist trail.
We arranged for a day of kayaking from CatBa Island with 2 kayak stops, a stop at monkey island, and snorkelling. The Vietnamese couple seemed to have signed up for everything and then you discover that maybe they are just agreeable. One couple wanted a short cruise and no stops to be back at 3pm. Meantime the 2 French couples signed up for a day to return at 4pm. We had signed up for everything and were to be back at 5pm. We ended up with a little kayak but not what was promised. Anyways it was a bit too slow for us. The agent just shrugged his shoulders and said that not enough people had signed up so he put us on another tour. Such was our introduction to Vietnam.
We did enjoy renting a motorscooter and hiking in the national park and knowing what we were getting!
We returned to Hanoi and it was still peeing with rain (or again) so we made arrangements to go to sunny Sapa. They were just recovering from floods and some road washouts. So we had 3 glorious days of sunshine - the first that they had seen in a month. We signed up for a tour - an ok hotel and a 'homestay' with a tribal family. It turned out to be a cheap hotel - no mingling with the family. So we loved the trekking and our cute 17 year old female guide from one of the local tribes who had learned English in the market. But again a disappointment from the agency. Hopefully we are learning - but how many questions can you ask??? and what do you assume. I can only think that tourism is fast and furious and a lot of money here. Hopefully we make decisions that we are a little happier with in the near future. And of course we are also hoping for sunshine as that makes a huge difference. This am it is not raining in Hanoi!!

We see flush toilets, hot water, western dress and lots of advances here. Tons of women wear the traditional chinese hat (cone)and a scarf across the face - to keep the sun off and the skin white!, lots of motorcycles, narrow highrise buildings that extend quite far back and are not adjoined to the next building but a few inches apart. We understand that taxes are based on the width of the front thus all seem tall and narrow - why they don't share a wall is beyond me as no sunshine can get in the few inches gap.

The traffic mayhem...we watched a Lexus SUV turn into oncoming traffic (motor scooters) and then cross three lanes to get to the correct side of the road. When we were on the highway we did a u-turn to change directions as there was no lane or road to get you going in the direction that the driver wanted.
We are learning to start walking across the street and going not too fast and working our way past each of the oncoming scooters. Our technique is improving but!!

We bought the best train tickets for the night train to Hue, halfway down the coast and the agent arranged the taxi, gave directions and negotiated the fare. But as luck would have it the driver didn't really know the hotel next to the station where he was to drop us off. Needless in this traffic hectic and slow city he was probably very tired and frazzled. He got angry on the way in the traffic and then angry when he couldn't find the hotel. We got there in the end and it didn't take long to relax when we got on the train. Thank goodness we had allowed lots of time. I could never driver in this city...or manage a bike or scooter - so walking is manageable.

Hanoi after Singapore stopover

Well, we enjoyed the most amazing airport in the world at Singapore. One could almost holiday that with restaurants, bars, music, various lounges and kinds of chairs, quiet corners including the butterfly pavilion, the fish pond, spas, swimming pool, gym, cinema, internet, sports bars, shopping, hotels and more. Sue and I then parted with Sue returning home and me meeting up with Clive in Hanoi.

Another super flight with Singapore Airlines and then past flooded areas into Hanoi in the rain. There is record rainfall here and lots problems going to various areas. Anyways Clive and I met as expected and having enjoyed 2 days catching up and sampling the food here. Lots of vegetables so I am enjoying them. The food is great - lots of flavour but fairly mild - so far that is.

We are off to Halong Bay tomorrow for a few days on an island. We want to see what the weather is like and then make plans. Hopefully in a few days, it will be ok to go northwest to the hill tribes at Sapa and then south to Hue and the beaches. Right now the trains and buses can not go south. So I am glad that it is flooding and not a major earthquake or other natural disaster. The weather on the planet??? More rain here than in the past 35 years this past week. So crops are affected and I guess the result will be higher prices, etc and difficulties for lots of individuals.

Hanoi seems a modern city with lots and lots of traffic - look both ways and take your life in your hands crossing the roads. I am not sure that the traffic lights mean much. Also the streets are relatively clean, paved and I don't see any homeless people. Is that the Communist regime? Looks pretty prosperous on the surface but will learn much more as time goes on. Some people know English but they do have trouble with some sounds in English - much better than my Vietnamese though. So far everything appears pretty hassle free. We shall see. Anyways we are looking forward to exploring and learning more.

Leaving Nepal and quick reflection

Well it has been an amazing month. So many thoughts, so many experiences in Nepal, a poor and developing nation of very warm, friendly people that seem to have a real sense of pride. The first day it felt like India without the hassle and leaving it still feels the same but I feel quite attached to Nepal and the people here. Though lots of poverty, I personally encountered very little begging. Instead I encountered friendly people everywhere who always had a smile and said "namaste" (may the divine in me see the divine in you) - I guess really hello to them but I rather like it. I saw mothers or grandmothers oiling the skin and massaging naked babies in the sunshine, I saw laughter, kids playing and hugging and just a lot of happy people working or sitting in the sunshine (or not as the case may be). I leave with fond memories and hopes that Nepal remains a peaceful nation that will be able to develop. They seem to recognize that English, tourism and education are important.

Of course, it still has its issues with drug and alcohol abuse, housing and other issues and all the stuff of poor and developing nations. Still the pride and warmth seems to come through. Also it seems like a step back in time going through the villages while trekking - no running water, no real sanitation, sometimes no electricity, shortage of fuel sources for heating and cooking, no insulation in square homes.

We ate lots of carbohydrates - quite tasty - and very little else for most of the trek. We walked quite a bit everyday.
It was an accomplishment to due the Annapurna circuit. I learned about dealing with altitude and acclimitization and gave it the respect that we learned about. I guess that some people have to turn around due to altitude problems. I learned to wait patiently for an hour or two for a meal.

The group of 6 trekkers included myself (the oldest but pretty fit) and Sue; a newly wed couple from London - Jon and Stu, 2 wonderful sensitive people whom I greatly admired who are on a 11 month world tour; Lisa from Australia who had spent 2 years as a Buddhist and decided not to become a nun and who had lived in England, Canada and Australia; Jack (Jacq) a French Canadian who had spent lots of time in India, pretty laid back and had just completed the Everest Base Camp trek before this one. The group started out pretty getting to know each other from conversations about backgrounds, etc and after a few days we talked more about our views and experiences on the trail. There was a buildup to get over the 5416meter pass - the highest pass in the world. Soon after that like after about 12 days the group dynamics started to change and at the end there was a little tension between a couple of individuals.

For me, an absolute highlight was meeting up with Andrew. He showed up one evening after a tremendous amount of hiking to catch us and find us - I thought that it would be impossible but he said it was pretty easy to find our whereabouts in a local teahouse. He did a massive amount of hiking; getting a flight and permit were some of the obstacles that he encountered. He joined our group for the last 2days of hiking. He and I walked together and joined the others for meals. Then we spent 2 wonderful days in Pokhara together. It was a time that I shall always remember so very fondly. I enjoyed spending time with Andrew and getting to know him a little more. It was relaxing - and a pretty special time to share together.

So I leave Nepal with wonderful memories. If I were to come back next year, I would plan a couple of weeks trekking probably a little more remote area but hopefully avoid the high altitude preparation stuff, spend 5-10 days rafting in a remote area with some hiking required to get in, 10 days at the Buddhist monastery just outside of Kathmandu, a few days chilling in Pokhara, a few days seeing some of the tourist sights on the outskirts of Kathmandu and maybe a day or two enjoying the yoga centre and great food up on the hill outside of Pokhara.

Now for the details using my notes to refer to:
I numbered the Days and lost total track of the day of the week - it isn't on my watch. This was an 18 day trek - a great way to experience Nepal. Lots of young people and lots of grey hairs doing this.

Day 1 The day prior to the start we met the group - 3 males and 3 females are the clients and the staff consisted of 1 guide and an assistant (porter) for each client. We had 4 female staff and 3 male. This was a festival day and most of us had a tikka on our forehead put on by the senior family member. The tikka is rice and a bright red paste. Then we had a meal. We were all looking forward to starting the trek. So on day 1 we took a van to the starting point. We walked for 3 hours after lunch. The first thing that we noticed is that many people around us were doing the trek independently with or without a porter. If we saw a group walking the porters were not with them but instead were struggling with 2 people's luggage plus their own. Our porters/assistants each carried our one bag - to be about 10kg and then they put their stuff in the top of our packs. They do not carry bedding as blankets are supplied for them and I don't know about sheets every day. They walked with us with one leading the group, one tailing the group and the others wherever. Porters were an integral part of our walking group.
Lots of people were walkling on this dirt road today as it was a festival day.

We were a bit taken aback by the accommodation the first night. When the guide showed us our room and said 'how is it?' We, of course, swallowed and managed to say 'fine'. Really it was a bit of a shock - rougher than anything that I have ever seen. I can't remember if there was an attached bathroom - I don't think so. Basically a sort of square room, not decorated or insulated with 2 single beds covered with some kind of sheet. The squat toilets stink and you need to put water down after using. A sink with cold water and not even a shower today or maybe cold water. Pretty bleak but we got used to it pretty quickly.

Day 2 Today the road turns into a trail-like walk. I saw a vista of a white-capped mountain for a short while. We walked through lots of villages. I was finding that the porters and guide slow the group down - we learned that half of them have never carried a pack before. So I realized very quickly that I would need to learn to go slower and stop for the frequent rests. I knew that I was in no hurry but it was a learning process to enjoy their pace. I found myself listening and observing various things. I will probably enjoy the group but I am probably more of a loner and already I realize that I prefer to decide when and where I will stop, eat lunch, etc. rather than fall into what the group leader has in mind. I like making my own choices. So this is going to be a learning experience for me and it will be interesting to see how I feel as time goes on. Right now, I think that the staff and clients will probably form a fairly cohesive group with the male porters being the last ones to fit in. I guess that I can make my choice so we shall see.

Sue has offered to start English lessons today. The staff are excited about that and Jack, the French Canadian is all up for having Sue help to correct his English. Sue is an amazing teacher with amazing skills and can plan classes at various levels focussing on various things. I said that I would help but I can see that Sue has a real knack and though I do speak English I certainly have never taught English to nonEnglish speakers. Already I have an appreciation of the skills required.

Day 3 600meter elevation gain today Great fun picking a straight up route through the rocks. A fairly deep gorge. Lisa fell on her knee and hand and like a real trooper kept right on going. It was a great day and a great workout. The homes in the villages were beautifully painted many colors and the good old flamboyant tree was around. Can you imagine that I saw a beehive and for the first time in my life I saw that the pollen on the legs of the bees reflected the color of the flower that it had visited. I tell you, the things that I get to learn travelling.

All the porters and guides are keen to practise what they learned in the English lesson yesterday. Everybody has a really positive attitude. The fitness level of the group seems pretty good - except for maybe Lisa so I am happy to be fit. I like to walk to long steps especially uphill and feel a bit of a stretch. I like to due 2 steps at a time when there are steps - if possible.

Day 4. We stayed together more easily today - after a bit of instruction to do so from our guide. After they are carrying packs and we aren't and they are not superfit. We understand that the assistants need a rest and we are all here 'for the trip' not to get there faster. It seems a really positive easy going group and the staff certainly seem to be enjoying themselves. Looks like a mixing of cultures to me..

The mountains are lots of green - steep sided slopes, tight valleys (reminds me of the 3 gorges). We are now above the rice fields and more into the pine forest area. It is definitely getting cooler in the evenings and mornings.

For breakfast I am eating porridge and for lunch and dinner it is rice,potato, or pasta with some good flavour (usually smoky or oriental) and a little vegetable and/or a little egg. There are lots of great tea flavours including masala which is spicy, milky and sweet usually, or mint, ginger, lemon or black tea.

Day 5 300 meter elevation gain up to 2650 meters. Today was an easy walk and a 3 hour lunch stop. I enjoyed the sunshine, watching the locals going up and down the road, children playing, families working - husking corn, feeding and oiling the baby, laundry, and cooking.
Great views of snow-capped Himalayas and moving clouds. Lots more trekkers passing us today - I wonder if they took a vehicle a little further than us or just that the locals are no longer on the trail because of walking to visit families in other villages and thus the trekkers are easier to spot. Anyways,,,, doesn't really matter just an observation.
Sue's lessons continue and the group is loving the opportunity to learn and practise English.




We, the clients, played spoons tonight with Sue's organization (and last night as well).

Day 6 to Upper Pisang 3200m to Pisang and about another 200 or so m. up to Upper Pisang (for acclimitization - a 530 m elevation gain today. We later learn that one can go up 350-500meters per day to gain altitude and usually extra hike up and then sleep lower - serious business this acclimitization) I am noticing the altitude and drinking much more water today - from less than 2 l. yesterday to 3.5l. today. I can hear my breathing, I am going slower and I have to consciously close my mouth if I want to breather through my nose. Starting to acclimatize. (Andrew flies to Kathmandu or somewhere today.)

Magnifique! Mountains with snow-capped peaks peaking out regularly when we turn corners or change the angle of viewing. Very few mules transporting goods today (that is how stuff is still transported along these very old trade routes). Temperatures are definitely getting colder and there is a fire in the main eating area tonight overlooking the magnificent valley with windows on 3 sides jutting out over the mountain edge. Pretty incredible views and pretty chilly. The building and villages are becoming fewer in number. There is much less color in the hotels and buildings. I didn't take any photos of these and then I realized that it had changed. So the topography as well as housing, etc do change along the route.

Sue did her English lesson today with our assistants as they were walking. They seem to be really enjoying learning and all seem very enthusiastic even the couple of very shy males. The girls are certainly more social - command of English or just more social or more confident???

I chatted and met Joelle and Mark, a honeymoon couple from Australia that we got to know later in the trip better. The others played cards.

Day 7 Manang 3763m Increasing in altitude each day. I am feeling great. Lisa is pretty sick and eventually made it today much to my dismay. Vomiting and insulin dependent diabetes and altitude. We thought that the hygiene at Upper Pisang wasn't very good?? - was it any different than anything else?? or was it AMS (altitude mountain sickness). Anyways we went ahead and the guide brought her along after she had a sleep. I was pretty surprised that she made it - puking and walking. We were all pretty tired at the end of today - and there felt like quite a lot of concern for each other - rather nice.

There were fantastic views all day of the peaks, snow, yaks (high altitude animals that are cow or ox like in appearance), autumn red bushes and a couple of villages. Rather sparsely populated as we go higher. The grains are laying to dry and harvesting is happening.



There is so much garlic in the food and most are enjoying garlic soup as a starter - supposedly good for the altitude, and lots carbohydrates and not much else. Oh yes, great teas.

Tonight we had an ensuite - the assistants want to give Sue a great room as they seem to be appreciating her teaching - so I guess that I can benfit (sort of - in these conditions - ensuite is not exactly posh - cold water (solar heated, I guess) and a squat smelly toilet - but a great view with minimum insulation - and my great -20 sleeping bag.


Day 8 Manang an acclimatization day so we gained 200 m. on a great little hike and then back down. We went to a superb lecture on AMS done by a volunteer American doctor. We did see people that had to turn back because of the altitude and they gave us a real horror story. I guess that a couple of people die every year because they do not pay attention to the symptoms. It seems that the drug Diamox comes recommended because it alters the body pH and causes excess urination and drinking. It was originally a treatment for eyes but works great with altitude issues and does not mask symptoms.

Sue got her boot glued and stitched in the street for 200 ruppees - less than $5. Amazing to see how they sit on the dirt with a few tools and have a little business.

Today we changed hotels as this new hotel had no food or beds for the porters. Everyone felt pretty bad so we decided to buy them a western dinner in a couple of days.

It is getting colder everyday. I managed to wash my hair and upper body in cold water. The laundry does manage to dry in the midday sun and I enjoy the warmth then as well. Clear skies every day.

Tried yak cheese today and loved it - and a bit of protein for the cells.

The scenery is beautiful and I am enjoying the great workout on a daily basis. There is lots of time today as we are wondering around the village and relaxing while acclimatizing. I love to wander off down all the tiny lanes and explore. I am loving those white peaks of the Himalayas in the distance, the trails, the now arid countryside, Buddhist flags everywhere, wheels of life, stone housing (no insulation). I have learned that most people are here to service the tourists and most leave for villages lower down when winter comes. The kitchens cook on wood stoves (firewood appears difficult to get) and sometimes a propane burner.

I am eating and drinking more today and peeing more as well. I am thinking of Andrew...and I do hope that we will meet but I am wondering this can happen.

Day 9 Yak Kharka at 3968 m.and increase of 430m today and I guess about 4 or 5 degrees temp. change. Today was a beautiful plod - I loved this speed caused by the altitude - cold wind, warm sun, watching the black colored birds go backwards and around in the thermals. I changed from a sun hat to a wool hat and at times wore my undershirt, merino sweater, gortex jacket. Today we are basically at 4000m. and are required to to up another 100m in the pm for acclimatization. I am eating massive plates of potatoes or rice or noodles and yesterday I drank 5 liters and 3 l. so far today. Saw people going back due to AMS. This is the first day that I could have managed a nap in the afternoon but will not as I prefer to sleep at night. I expect to bring out all the clothes today. It is too cold to sit in the windy sun. Most of the rooms have sunny windows (and ventilation or lack of insulation and poor construction). Hard to believe that all of these clothes are necessary inside in the daytime.

There is more closeness developing between the Nepalis and us. It is sort of like a big group - very unlike what we see around us - the nature of the company and beliefs that they have. I think that others kind of envy what we are experiencing. People in the group are now starting to share more of the current experience rather than their past. The current stories are probably more likely to be related to our current experience. Cards are happening in the evening and we are usually to bed about 8pm and up at 6am. for breakfast supposedly .5hour later but usually it takes longer.

I heard a yak that make a pretty loud noise whilst in bed tonight and the water draining in the bathrooms and the wind blowing. I did no laundry today and no bodywashing except for hands and face. It is nice to have a full belly and be warm enough to be pleasantly comfortable. The simple things in life again - the basics, and nature - wind, weather, the comraderis and the positive attitude of all. Again that relaxation that comes after exertion is so pleasant. Jack, the French Canadian, who raced mountain bikes until 2 years ago (51 then) compares our walk to a 50km plus bike ride - that's how he feels! I have quite a bit of spare time since I am happy that I did not bring a book and can just be absorbed by things around me and enjoy the moment. I turned on the ipod for the first time for a short while and enjoyed that. Sue, in contrast, is enjoying her book and crosswords.

Day 10 Thorung Phedi 4400m. another increase of over 400m. Just putting one foot in front of the other. Magnificent views! Rock, rock, rock - a sheer face of it in front of us. I absolutley love the closeness of the sheer rock wall and not as spectacular is the way up the pass on the other side. I strolled about on my own enjoying the quiet and my steady slow pace. We arrived at Phedi in brilliant sunshine and the cold wind so I wore lots today.

I woke up with a headache today - with 5l. water yesterday and had 4 by lunch today. The headache quick left but my ears took quite a while to equalize. Jon took a diamox today due to shortness of breath and lots of apprehension. He was very emotional as he was considering their options of completing the trek in this direction. As usuall tears are probably nearbly for most as we are expending lots of energy and the emotions tend to come close to the surface. I love it and I feel grand and fit. Sue on the other hand is experiencing no symptoms related to the altitude. I am eating lots and have a large appetite. I am enjoying this experience. Everyday gets better and better - though central heating would be nice. It is great to be pleasantly challenged. Our assistants are learning lots of English and they are becoming more and more friends. It was like a high country hostel last night. We sang and danced - everyone participated though a little reluctantly to dance solo at first everyone took their turn in good humor. A fire in the evening with dried sticks - very little firewood seems to be available in this environment. Early to bed tonight in anticipation of the big walk tomorrow arising at 3:30am. Last night I took quite awhile to fall asleep even though I was last to bed learning about Sunita, our guide and Punya, a trainee guide and assistant.
Jon, the eating machine wants to know which day he ate chips -important stuff that we like to remember. The group is quite a bit quieter today - looking at the great mountain face, anticipating the trek up tomorrow and reflecting - I guess.


Day 11 Muktinath 4400m up to 5416 (1016m up) and then down to 3710 (1706m down) the big day of elevation gain and loss. Wake up at 300am, breakfast of porridge and tibetan break and milk coffee at 330 and walking up with headlamps at 400am. We reached our destination for the day at 12:30pm. Up the pass one foot at a time with a row of headlamps. Dawn breaks imperceptibly by the minutes it slowly changes to daylight and the headlamps are superfulous. I relax into a nice slow pace up and go somewhat slower because Lisa is experiencing problems and the guide is ahead with the others (though the porters are behind, I stay back for moral support - and I am more than happy to go a little extra slow and set a pace for her. I don't know how she made it as she was vomiting again and forcing one foot in front of the other. We took photos at the top and had a coffee. On the way down, I went at my own pace - faster than Lisa and slower than the others. Chandra, my porter always stayed within sight of me - sometimes closer and sometimes further apart. I loved the walk down through the arid countryside. We had a new moon still above us for a bit and the clouds way below us and mountains piercing above them. I spent the afternoon sitting in the sun after enjoying a lovely hot shower for a small fee. We were all pretty tired. I had taken a diamox just before starting out and later realized that I really did not need it - probably a tylenol would have been sufficient. So I peed like a racehorse and drank just as much and totally enjoyed my walk watching the moving cloud show and peeing regularly in the arid countryside.
Some of the porters really struggled today carrying the packs and not being any more fit than us or probably not as good.

Jack, Jon and Stu were pretty excited and emotional about going over the pass - the beauty, the accomplishment and the anticipation. Sue did not see this as much different from the Rockies and a whole lot colder. I love the trekking and the culture and was probably more impressed by the rock face yesterday and the clouds and being in my own space and did not get so excited about the accomplishment but rather the process of the rhythm of it all. It has been an interesting experience however high altitude is hard work and not to be undertaken lightly and the accommodation and food are more basic than I would ideally like. Relaxed and tired at the end of the walk and a great walk down past the temple into Muktinath. I am wondering now if I will meet Andrew since Jomson is not so far away and he could possibly walk or fly here depending upon his choices. I know that Clive would hate everything about this trip!

Up the pass I wore toque, mitts, neck warmer, and for my chest area 5 layers - polypro base, merino wool sweater, polyester undershirt, soft shell jacket, sleeveless down vest and gortex jacket. On my legs I had polyester long underwear, wool tights, wind pants. I wore this stuff all day & it was great - beforehand I thought about what to wear and this turned out to be perfect.



Day 12 Kagbeni 2895 m down 900m today and down more each coming day.
Started this morning with a brisk walk back up to the temple that we skipped yesterday - a mixture of Hindu ie. Vishnu temple and the Buddhist gompa. I notice that I am still breathing more heavily than at a lower altitude. It is a beautiful stroll to Kagbeni for 2.5 hours. I watched the blackbirds in the thermals - the birds appear and disappear quickly - just like in diving when you realize that at a certain distance you can no longer see the image. There are dozens of them in a basically circular pattern. The beautiful yellow autumn leaves on the apple trees falling, warm sun, strong winds and cool mornings. I see the farm workers separating buckwheat from chaff. This wonderful village is Tibet style and lots of narrow old walkways. Our accommodation standards seem to be improving on this side significantly - warmish water in the shower today, western toilet and a better smell. Food seems a little better though kitchens are pretty spartan and very busy - I see a frige and microwave here (electricity). As usual great views from the dining area and from the rooms. I loved the walk today and got a great glimpse into rural harvest time with snow-capped peaks in the distance and a dry steep stone mountain somewhat (like one side of the Grand Canyon - with colors of green, yellow, red and very arid). Noticed lots of abandoned monk caves on the hoodoo style portion on the gorge away on the opposite valley side. I must be hungry today after all of the exercise yesterday. Two hot delicious fried eggs and hot Tibetan bread (similar to a large deep fried doughnot but thin and big) with honey and milk coffee. Lunch was rice with a bit of yak cheese and ginger tea. Everyone is resting this afternoon and I am enjoying a walk in the Tibetan village. I tried to go alone but Chandra wanted to go with me. When I walked out the other end of the village he agreed to go back and leave me on my own. So I sat, wrote, enjoyed the sun, wind, brown bit or river flowing on the flood plain below and the Buddhist flags up above on the hillside. I am loving it all and I am so grateful for the whole experience.

10pm The day continued with its wonderful way of unfolding and bringing more pleasure. I walked up tiny alleyways of old architecture and saw old ladies, buckwheat being sifted in streets and in courtyards, cows and calves and children playing and other tourists wandering - some alone and some in groups being guided. I wandered back and learned from a Tibetan woman that they are not citizen in Nepal and consequently sell jewellery and stuff to tourists to make a living. What will ever happen to all of these displaced Tibetans?

As I ambled back into and out the other end of town, I saw a cute little boy carrying buckwheat on his back pretending to work like his dad. How work starts as play. He fell, I walked and smiled to myself and I met a young 20'ish Nepali man coming in my direction. We greeted (as so many friendly Nepalis do) and then he asked me where I was going. I said 'to my hotel'. He asked me the name and I said that I didn't know. He said that there was only one hotel ahead and it was in the next village. He asked if I was staying in Kagbeni and yes was my answer. He suggested that it might be back 100m. I asked if the one ahead was on the right or left side of the road and when he said left, I decided to check the hotel 100m back. As I got closer, I thought that maybe he was right. I recognized the garden and its relationship to the fields. We chatted and he said that his aunt runs this hotel. I go up the wrong steps (about 1m away), everyone laughs and then I recognize the proprietor when she comes out onto the step at the next entrance. I burst out laughing and say that I am now at the right hotel. Meantime this guy starts unloading the truck at the hotel entrance. The sense of trust here is amazing and the warmth of the people. I laughed again as I told my story inside.

This evening we bought the western dinner for our guide and assistants. They ordered beers, pizzas, fried momos, chips, a salad, rice pudding, and hot chocolate. They must have had fun choosing all of this western stuff. Lisa helped serve a little and then thought that I would help as well. (Unfortunately protocol has that they serve us - I don't know why). I had such fun. The kitchen staff did warm up as I peered in and waited to serve the prepared dishes. Then they offered me a slice of deep fried apple and a small dish of extra rice pudding ...the benfits of serving in this little role reversal evening. I admired the dark sky and the many many stars appearing in the clear night air outside my window. A stellar day and a wonderful cultural experience!!




Day 13 past Marpha to Thuku and the Dutch Bakery 2665m down 235m.
A very windy walk through the windy valley - stronger winds than I have ever seen. The dust blows and swirls. All but me had their mouths and noses covered. I held my arms out occasionally and felt the warm wind. Managed to drop Andrew a line as we walked through Jomson. No note from him. I feel disappointed and hope that he is well - a bit like finding a needle in a haystack without much communication. I do hope that we will meet in Pokhara.


Marpha is an extemely clean little town with white-washed walls everywhere and a walkway through town with attached shops and homes on either side of the clean walkway. Lisa and I visited the monastery with the encouragement of Sunita, our guide. It was up, up, up and a great view over the homes and town and a sight to see with the monks painting for the upcoming festival and a young monk selling apples and befriending Lisa.


Today I watched the goat (and some sheep) sheperd his flock and I walked with him for 15 or so minutes. I gained an appreciation of how much work it is going from side to side and always get a couple back on track with a stick, running and a voice. Ali, Georgina's dog, in her youth would definitely have been a definite asset here. These animals are being herded from China all the way to Pokhara for Devali. They will be sold for about 10,000 ruppees each ($140+).

Lisa was really walking at a great pace today and was thoroughly enjoying herself in her energy and health and fitness. Jon sang Doris Day's Secret Love from Calamity Jane for me and told me the wondrful story of his and Stu's love and their wedding outside Bath on July 17, ten years to the day after they had met.

Day 14 Ghasa 2530m down 135m.
I laid in bed last night and listened to the rustling mouse for quite awhile. I even shone my headlight around but to no avail. I heard a mouse in the roof as well and this was really the cleanest teachouse with the hottest showers on the trek so far. At the last place I had watched a mouse scamper 3 feet up the wooden wall before falling back down.

Today I didn't feel too energized for trekking. I could do with a day of rest. It required quite a lot of energy yesterday to push against the wind or was it just so many days in a row without a break or was it the feeling of disappointment that I have not heard from Andrew. As always, I pray that he is safe and healthy. My job is to enjoy the day. Lunch did revive me and allowed me to put a spring back into my step but by the end of the day I was tired again. I did not enjoy the road-like walking and watching every step due to the rocks. There have been many days of blue sky but this afternoon has been partially overcast. Villages are quite large now and there is quite a distance between them on this half of the trek so it is harder to see local life.

Today the group spread out with Lisa, John, Stu and Jack really moving ahead. The clients seemed to be ahead of the staff today and it felt like a bit of a race. I got caught up in it as well. There were very few stops and no guide in front. Even the boys said that they were tired today. I wonder if Sunita will insist on it being different tomorrow.

Several of the staff bought brandy at the distillery to take home for relatives for Devali - the next 5 day festival coming up. Vishnu is carrying 6kg of apples for his family. He is pretty pleased with his apple stealing from the trees (by his smirk I thought that he had brandy - and then I understood what a treat they were for him. As an aside this was his first trip as he is a 20year old student. He was thrilled to see ice and snow for the first time). Today it was overcast and chilly in the late afternoon. The water was tepid so I skipped a shower but still rinsed out the dust from my pants (3 days of dust).

Day 15 Tatopani 1189m a descent of 1341 m.
A glorious day - warmer, gently downhill and rocky(3degrees warmer for every 1000feet), allowing mule tains to pass on the way up. The rule of the road (wait on one side and let the animals pass - I didn't once but kept on walking and the man in charge shouted and stared at me as he passed (I learned quickly not to do that again and besides it is great fun watching). Wide gorges angling through valleys - lots of pine forests and green colored foliage in the distance. Saw millet, buckwheat, rice, corn, squash and beans on the stalk as well as the usual pumpkin and some kind of cucumber or squash. and then oranges, lemons and bananas. I went at my pace today and I enjoyed taking photos and pausing. Others seemed to separate, slow down and really enjoy today as well. Everyone seemed to have more time alone. The English lessons stopped before the pass due to the energy consumption trekking and they don't seem to have restarted.

The weather has been great and so has the walk. I am loving and savoring it now. We arrived at Tatopain early pm. I had an amazing time coming into town following the goats. This was the same group of goats as the past two days - the paint color on the backs of the animals as well as recognzing the herder. I watched them control or attempt to train the herd. They blocked the road and then they allowed them to pass through one at a time , then corraled half of them into a pen, then herded them all 50m and stopped them, then down one step and ahead 50m again and then pausing again for several minutes at each point. It was amazing to watch the control and the way no one goat wants to lead and then they all follow whichever direction one will go.



I watched bullocks (or oxen or some such) trample on rice in a circle around a pole to release the seeds. Then the men and women sored and packaged the hay. The men were in charge of the animals and the women seemed to be bundling.

As I wandered down the street I saw 2 women with what appeared to be yellow brown mud on their hair. It turned out to be henna. They leave it on for 2 hours and it should lighten their hair and be healthy for it. Shyly they let me take photos. Then I wandered down the street and near the water supply I sat with a couple of girls doing homework (one in English) and eating a fast food snack.

Again the accommodation was very basic but a lovely garden and it was warm well into the evening so dinner outside. I spent a lovely couple of hours in the hotsprings pool down by the river chatting and drinking a beer. It feels like a holiday resort here and I would love to spend an extra day here. Jack and the 3 male porters seemed to be high on the marijuana that they picked.

I had a weird dream and woke up today thinking that Dad had a chain around one ankle while in the hospital dying. He went to the doorway and asked to go home so they let him out so that he could die at home. Weird. Anybody intrepret dreams? They said that they might happen at altitude but mine happened here?

Day 16 Ghorepani 2855m ie is 1666m up
Sunita wants up to start at exactly 700am. today as this is a massive altitude gain today. Lots and lots of up like never ending. We did start at 715am which is pretty darned close to the 700am request (it is usually the breakfast for us and then staff that holds us up) and we arrived at 400pm. It was great but would have been better if it had been a couple of hours shorter. An interesting spread today - Jon, Stu, Jack, Lisa all ahead and then Sue and I and the 2 young female porters and then the rest of the porters and guide. It seems that Sunita has given up trying to get us to travel together - a change from the beginning. She is definitely getting tired with all of the demands on her - clients and staff to manage and lots of clients with minds of their own at this point.

Andrew arrived in our guesthouse after dinner tonight as we sat around the stove fireplace keeping warm. I was totally shocked and didn't recognize the young man with the short beard and fine voice walk in and say hi accoompanied by a local young lady. I think when he said Mom that I was shocked and cried. After a few minutes I was ready to introduce him to the group but they had already done that - and of course tears again. I was so excited to see him. He walked a huge distance today - he walked in two days what we walked in 4 days and he was carrying his own pack. Already Andrew has kayaked 6 days. I visited with him at his guest house and then he walked me back to mine. He was the only guest in a big guesthouse and it was interesting seeing him get a pretty damned good pizza - I didn't order them after one done with ketchup as the tomato sauce.




Day 17 Hille
Today we were up at 430am for the 430am departure for the hike up, up, up to Poon Hill in the dark. Enjoyed the stars and walking up in the dark with headlights. Wore quite a few clothes as it is cold pre-dawn especially at the top while we wait for sunrise. There were 200-300 people jockeying for the best spots for photos.. Very nice but not over the top - a lot of exercise and probably just about as good from the hilltop in town where Andrew was staying and still sleeping (bless him). Andrew arrived about 800 am. quite a while before we left. I cried lots today - whenever someone mentioned his name to me. I was pretty emotional and overjoyed to have time with Andrew and I really did not think it was possible to meet here. We walked slowly downhill today. I was pretty tired and glad to have the afternoon to relax at the teahouse with the sunshine and warmth. I enjoyed walking with Andrew. In the afternoon Andrew and I walked more - back .5km and then downn to the creek. Andrew went for a swim in the cold water and I dabbled my feet.

Someone in the group did a poll to see if we should finish a day early. Definitely not was my vote and it turned out that Sunita couldn't allow that anyways due to teahouse reservations and van pickup tomorrow and the itinerary. I think one or two wanted to finish early, a couple didn't care, and I and Jon wanted to carry on.

Day 18 Nayapul
A very short walk today and lots relaxation. Strolled with Andrew. Lots time for lunch - arrived at 1030 - chatted in the cafe as we sat watching the street life. It seems as though the group is breaking up. I am thoroughly enjoying Andrew and he is making observations about the group as well. He is pretty social in a quiet unassuming way.

We got back to Pokhara and cleaned up for dinner and went to the bank. The dahl baht (rice, lentil, pickle and 2 veg and meat today) was the most delicious traditional meal that I have had since my time at the yoga place. The food was great but the time was extremely flat. Sunita was tired, not a leader and had nothing to say to raise or change the mood today. A pretty poor ending to a magnificent trip. Andrew recognizes the role of the leader and how she should make some attempt to emphasize positives and put some kind of spin on it. However, Sunita is embroiled in personal issues and can not rise above them.

I am appreciating Andrew attending this with me tonight - and he did thank the group for including him (trying to change the tone a bit at a most appropriate moment). Oh well, it's all done and I have 2 more days to enjoy with Andrew. So it is rafting tomorrow for me and Andrew in the kayak.

Pokhara for 2 days

Andrew and I got a hotel together today. I enjoyed the continuous Class 3 and 4 rapids and relatively shallow water. The next day we went paragliding. The others were excited but Andrew and I both were pretty flat. For me, I had a pilot that did not really get up in the thermals and so it was kind of boring though I might have felt nauseous if we had - I am not sure. Andrew was a little the same but felt that it would be more fun if he was controlling it himself and maybe going cross country.
We ate at little restaurants and enjoyed the food - better than most of the trail. We shared a couple of beers and talked and sat lots. I totally enjoyed my time with him. It was a wonderful opportunity to enjoy him in such a wonderful warm (physically and metaphorically) country.

I have had a wonderful experience in so many ways here and I reflected upon it all as I enjoyed the bus ride back to Kathmandu.

Preparing for Trek - Pokhara

Things are awesome here. The energy in the guest house is amazing. The people are very warm and very accommodating. The guests are so amazing. Met a young gal from home working for the Sierra Club, a couple of gals working on sustainability and of course those on 'a journey' of personal exploration. Lots of positive energy and enthusiasm. Several expressed that their trek was much more than a trek - a sense of accomplishment, a cultural experience, enjoying the mountain panoramas and everything... as they say they are not sure - but in time they will process their intense and special experience.

Today is a big holiday so we are all having lunch with the guest house staff - feels like a big family. I was also invited to come for the festival at the last place up near the yoga centre where I stayed. Seems pretty cultural to want to include others and welcome you into their families.

So looking forward to walking and starting the trek tomorrow. Man, I have really enjoyed the food here - probably not quite as good as we go up and probably a little more austere but I can hardly wait for my experience.

take care, namaste

Katmandu and Pokhara

Arrived in Kathmandu and got a prepaid taxi. Absolutely no hassle and a 45 minute drive to the hotel. Sort of reminds me of India but without the hassles. People are very kind to tourists - of course they want you to buy something but are not in your face and definitely accept no for an answer. Wandered around for a day.
Then I hopped on the bus to Pokhara and Sue made arrangements to fly to the game park. It was tempting to join Sue for a minute or two but I decided to stay with my game plan. There were no air-conditioned buses available due to the upcoming festival so I got a regular tourist bus. It was great - enjoyed meeting a couple of interesting people and travelled up the valley.
I dropped my pack off at the guest house affiliated with the trek. Then I hoofed it up the hill to the yoga studio. I took the palace of a room - the round place, brand new, next door with shower and western toilet and queen bed - and all to myself. Then it turns out that the neighbours own this so I spent some time with them having tea and chatting. Saw the goat after being sacrificed and killed. They boiled water and took all of the long shaggy coat off. Then I guess it was cut up and split up with some neighbors. One goat costs about 10,000rupees - about $180.00 quite a huge amount of money for the festival. They invited me for goat stew and dinner but I declined. Everybody seems to welcome you here. Everyone talks to you and it is nonthreatening - just so very friendly and most have good English.

The yoga studio was high above the lake - a superb location - the monsoons have not finished so I watched the rain come in from the end of the valley for a few afternoons. The food was fantastic - homemade yogurt and museli with apple and banana and a milk-banana drink for breakfast. Much earned after meditation from 6-7am: a walk for an hour down the hill, along the lake and back up, then one hour of yoga and finally the breakfast. Lunch was awesome - thali like - 5 items on a big metal tray with something in each compartment. Always rice, lentil soup, 3 different vegetables, and relish (acidy). All fabulous with such individual flavors and lots of different spices. Evening meal was a bowl of bean and potato soup and 2 chappatis - yummy flavours again. Tea was homemade and clear most of the time with lots of great spices. Midafternoon was chai - spicy tea made with milk and sugar. All terrific!....and you'll notice no wine or beer and I never ever thought of that - different places and different things.

The yoga was interesting - very different than at home. Lots of meditation, lots of repitious exercises, focusing on one or two parts of the body when we got into the asanas, lots of breathing exercises. The second day I offered to teach the instructor a class done in the Western way. He didn't really respond. They expect you to do one hour of karma yoga - selfless service - once a day and I was not impressed with the assigned tasks so thought that I could dream one up. ....fat chance. By the third day, I was less resistant and actually really liked the yoga classes - quite intense which of course I like. There is no explanation here and no checking any poses so a previous background is really helpful. Anyways a wonderful wonderful experience but enough at 3 days - in this style with this teacher. So many good things about it though and I am glad that I did it.

Still getting over jet lag - that should finish soon.

on the way to Nepal

I am in the airport in Singapore. It is nearly 5am. What a fantastic airport! I have used the foot massager, the calf massager, the free internet, walked a long way in a very asthetically pleasing enviroment - quiet music,rocks, mirrors,etc. lots of lounge spaces, cool chairs of all sizes, shapes and fabrics, the butterfly garden, spas, hotels, restaurants.

It has been a long trip - I have lost track of time - but I do know that it is early am here. We left home 430am on Tuesday and arrive in Katmandu by noon Thursday.

Camino symbols

Packing and tips from Susan

I learned a few things and probably didn't pay attention to some things that I heard before I left.

First because I have backpacked I didn't think weight was an issue. I was very wrong there. Yes, I can manage quite a bit, but yes it makes it much harder. I learned that above a certain weight that I may never get in shape so after 10 days I got rid of some weight. That made it much more manageable for me. I could lift my pack as well then. It was the best thing that I did. It was nice to work with the pack not against it. My pack, rather Jenny's is robust and state of the art to say the least. It is pretty waterproof, has compartments, fit amazing, has lots of adjustments, etc for comfort. Others swore by their little packs and consequently smaller straps and waistbands, etc. But I am willing to carry that weight for comfort. Also in the rain I used a raincover while others had rain coming leaking in on the side of their back where the packcover doesn't protect. That pack was a wonderful friend, I like the adjustments. I saw some people with crap packs and I helped a couple of people try to adjust their packs. Not everybody gets good advice like we do on how to fit a pack.

I chose to wear hiking boots and carried walking shoes. Others were happy in walking shoes but for me boots were the only way to go. I found them helpful in the rain, on the sometimes uneven, muddy, rocky or wet terrain. I also like the ankle support. I wore my shoes for about one day on the trip. To think that I toyed with leaving my boots at home...

When you arrive at some of the albergues (most) you are not allowed to wear your outdoor footwear in so my crocs clipped to the outside were great. Everyone else had to go inside and find their sandals. My crocs worked in the showers, around town and they allowed me to wear socks on my feet that were often chilly.

I had 3 pairs of smart wool type socks. One to wash, one to dry and one nearly dry. 4 might not have been a bad idea.

Rainwear - pants, jacket, my sunhat that also keeps my glasses clear when raining.

Noone else had a toque but I used mine like a chimney - off and on depending upon the temperature and I wore more than anyone else in the evenings - I get chilly after exercise.

2 Bras - cool max and 2 pairs of underwear - one to wash and one to wear.

A shirt to wear hiking and wash daily and stuff to wear in the evening. I had a down vest and a light jacket plus the gortex. I usually started off with about 4 layers in the evening and as I ate and warmed up, the layers came off. I was always colder than anyone else. It was warm hiking in the rain or the wind though.

The antimicrobial quick dry towel is invaluable. Dries fast, dry you, then roll your washed clothes in it.

A needle to puncture blisters that will probably arise the first few weeks. So many people had all sorts of fancy stuff for blisters but for me popping was best.

A lightweight sleeping bag (mine was too heavy and too bulky). Blankets are available at the refugios if your sleeping bag isn't warm enough.

I carried a lightweight cotton bag with a handle on the plane. I was going to ditch it. However, I was always ready for the shower as I kept clean underwear and shirt and shower stuff in it. So on go the crocs and out comes the bag and I am ready to shower. None of this looking through my pack. Also there is usually something to hang the bag on, so I could stuff my glasses and clothes that I had on into the bag if necessary.

I had various mesh bags. Bigger black for clothes, small purple with adapters and battery charger, small blue mesh with plastic spoon and knife, black mesh with socks and underwear. So I never lost anything and I never had to rummage through the pack. Everything had a spot and most things had a mesh sack or an outer pocket.

Though I enjoyed carrying one liter of water in my camelback, it might have been easier to have a 500 or 750 ml bottle at your waist for easy access and to drink from the various fountains that we passed. Occasionally the liter would have been better or maybe if the days were hotter that would have been necessary. Not sure.

Walking sticks.

The MINIMUM

Moments after the finish!

Day 31 Portomarin 23.7km and lots more

Days 31-35 are from memory and a few notes written a month later. Feelings come up just sitting at the computer remembering the wonderful time and opportunity that I have had. I have done so much cool stuff in my life but this one has been so special. It is not for everyone but for me it a kind of retreat - better than sitting still or meditating in a cave! It suited me exercise, people, food, wine,nature, alone but not alone. Of course all vacations are relaxing and enjoyable from the point of view that they escape the everyday concerns of life - no phone, no bills, no obligations, etc. Rather a self-centred, self indulgent enterprise this travelling. Where do I want to eat? What do I want to do? Enjoy the sun (or the weather). Mind you sometimes quite a bit of physical exertion (which I love) and the relaxation that ensues from it all. So it suited me in all respects. Sleeping in dorms etc are never a concern - I sleep reasonably well though I was surprised that I was not as much as I had anticipated. I sometimes heard the symphony of snorers - you can't identify them by looking at them and then the symphony ends. Sometimes people get up at insane hours but not me. The refugios were always clean! except maybe Burgos and it was moving to a new one shortly. Some of the refugios were so special and had such character. The refugios definitely had a wonderful pulse - knowing that everyone there was doing the same thing maybe faster or slower or differently than you but all still walking everyday. A sense of commoness. I really enjoyed some of the smaller refugios where people enjoyed an evening meal together. Those were special times in special places.

The distances that I put everyday came from a sheet of paper that I got the first day with a list of refugios. I found that every source listed slightly different mileages. At the beginning I always wanted to know how far I went today. As time passed, I cared less and just really wanted to remember whether it was a short, medium or longer day in distance.

Walking to Portomarin was a day that started with torrential downpours and by the end it was just cloudy. I walked over and through the streams created on the path by the rain. It was pretty muddy. Another day that I was thankful for my boots - just go charging through with pretty sure footing and pretty dry feet. The first refugio was full so I got into the next one. It was huge - 110 beds in 1 massive room with curtains (like in a hospital) dividing the room in groups of about 30 bunks bedsin each section. Rows and rows of bunk beds and nice hot water in the showers. This place that had a roof covering (sort of inside, outside)to dry (or attempt to dry)washed clothing.

Everyday when you arrive the first stop is the shower and the next stop the sink to wash clothes, especially keeping those socks clean and dry. Three pairs for me just about worked. Sometimes, often, I put the almost dry pair in my sleeping bag to make bone dry. Often a pair of socks took 2 days to dry completely. I loved my socks - with lots of wool in them...and I loved my boots. Alison used to sing I love my boots - and hers were old, old, old - I gave her the insoles from mine and that them wearable. Heck I had some great insoles from MEC that I loved. So she was happy and so was I. Alison had a pack that barely stayed together. One day she through out the metal stays. It had no body. And I had my, rather Jennys pack that had all the bells and whistles - pretty much water proof. Alison finally bought a poncho after a couple of days of being soaked and there I was with waterproof pants, dry pack and pack cover and a jacket that I should have rewaterproofed. I did buy a plastic poncho to go over top but water leaked in everywhere. By the end, I mostly just stayed in the jacket, abondoned the plastic poncho and it was warm. When the rain stopped, the moisture evaporated from body heat and the air. I was never uncomfortable. The big brim on the sunhat sure worked well in the rain (especially because I wear glasses).

I found the restaurant recommended in the Lonely Planet, up some side street - quite difficult to find. I had a chat with an American there. He retired from the family business at 74 years of age, bought a bike at Wal-Mart and trained for a year. He then was cycling the Camino (on the road as opposed to mountain bike version of the route)and staying in hotels. His wife was not interested in joining him. He was talking to me and telling me that he would have no idea what to do with the rest of his life. After all, he is now retired and he has done this cycle trip, so what could he possibly do next. And he was missing his wife. I suggested that he carry on cycling. He had lost 30 pounds training and was much fitter than when he retired. He seemed so young and yet his experience of life was primarily working. Such interesting people...
I invited Helen and Alison to go to dinner with me. Alison was totally up for that but Helen saw a pizza place and wanted to go there. I suggested that we each do what we want. Helen was tired of the same food everyday and not too adventurous with her choices. (Try India and curry everyday for 4 months). Anyways she came with us because she did not want to go alone - compromising...internal dialogue that I observed. Alison and I ordered the two new things on the menu and shared (like Clive and I always do). We had the eel from the local lake fried and octopus. The octopus is similar to squid but the skin is fatty like chicken skin but thicker. It was a tiny restaurant and there were a few Aussies there and the friendly two East German lads that I always have a word or two with. A nice big window and a lake down below in the distance. All so much fun.

Day 32 San Xulian 28km
I saw a small poster while walking today advertising a refugio - small and privately run. It was a few km past the main town where there was a choice of refugios - out in a village. Having had wonderful and special experiences in some smaller out of the way places, I decided that I would go here. I also knew that most people would be stopping i town. So no choice of restaurants but rather the all-inclusive setting. (I had just had coffee 75 m. off the trail in a fairly modern very nice hotel - and no other peregrinos). That was a little different from the usual coffee stop. I sometimes like to get out of the regular routine. The refugio in San Xulian was perfect. Beautiful dark wood and stone walls, a friendly couple running the place that had moved here from Barcelona, a fireplace for me to sit beside to be warm. He called it 'muy tranquillo' and I had to agree. A room with only 4 bunks and a bed at the end that was not a bunk. I chose this one. A special place. Lots of showers here and nice washroom. They asked if I wanted dinner and breakfast here. Of course - unless you are not eating! and someone did make that choice. So five for dinner here this evening. Dinner was fine but the setting and company were great and I felt like I was in heaven. I chatted to a couple that was getting married on Saturday in Santiago. We didn't really include the Austrian couple in our conversation...but then we obviously didn't feel that we needed to. The gal was Swedish and he was Egyptian Canadian and they had worked and met in Uganda. He was looking at a career with the UN and going to Kabul. His parents spend 6 months in suburban Egypt and 6 months each year in Montreal. Of course I was interested in their African and life experience and plans.

I was enjoying every moment and I had time this afternoon to jot down a few things about the camino. I was recognizing that the end was in sight and today was another perfect day with time to wander the village and reflect. I took a few photos. When I left home I didn't know if I would use the camera and I thought about taking the instruction book with me. Well, I enjoyed the camera. It gave me the opportunity to look at things carefully sometimes and an excuse to slow down. I did not take it out in the rain to capture the deluges. The practicality of looking after the camera contributed to that decision - because I certainly had never experienced rain like I had on this trip. However this afternoon was perfect - it threatened to rain all day so that makes for an interesting sky. It did stop and start raining but finally gave up in the afternoon. The clouds were in constant motion. When I arrived at this refugio I sat by the fire and enjoyed the warmth and the pleasant small surroundings of dark wood, stone, a closed-in feeling similar to those that I enjoyed so often at the small coffee stops along the way. As it cleared I enjoyed the sun and the light and being the only peregrino in the village. I thought about how wonderful my experience had been and how I had done it the way that I wanted. I carried out my original intention of having time alone and time with people. I enjoyed so many days of walking on my own and considered only what I wanted. It took a while to recognize that - no compromises - rather self-centred but also reflective. I have hardly ever walked in Fish Creek on my own - for an hour and here I have enjoyed a month of walking! Interesting!

I had passed an area full of loud frogs and the sense of hearing took over. I thought of the blind fellow and his seeing wife that walked the camino at about the same speed as me. They were truly amazing. They are climatologists working in France from Australia and I learned a later from someone else that she is also a United church minister. They walked with him putting his left hand through her arm and a walking stick in the other hand. When it came to walking through streams (due to the rain) rather than walk from rock to rock they just walked straight through the water in their running/walking shoes. I thought about how he saw the camino and how his hearing and maybe other senses had to make up for the lack of vision. They slept in refugios and managed the washroom issue, etc. Amazing!

I thought about how I have enjoyed the terrific coffees in Spain - always lattes, the showers that felt so good after walking everyday - warm, relaxing, cleaning. I thought about where I slept, walked, who I met, chance encounters, how it felt walking in the ever changing landscapes, the loads of new experiences and generally the real intensity in daily living. All travel offers lots of stimulation to me but this time has been a little different. I recognized what an opportunity I have had and I also recognized that I have had no 'real' decisions to make, no plans for tomorrow, no bills to pay, no obligations, no commitments. I had enjoyed living in my 'bubble' ...and in a few days life might become a little more real....or certainly more complex anyways....It has been a time for introspection, reflection, and community - as the words just came out when I went to a pretty interesting church service at the German refugio a week or so back. The priest showed up in his chocolate brown robe with a rope around the waist and they did the washing of the feet - acting out a section of the Bible with some of the pilgrims. Lots of Germans here and a few people visibly moved by this activity. Never knew that the Germans could be so 'huggy' until this experience.

Belin, from Florida is a fifty something lady whom I met on Day 3. She introduced me to Betsy, her cart for pulling her backpack and her backpack, Yogi. She speaks English and it took 3 introductions before I understood her. She had large, large tortoise framed glasses and soon she was walking in old Avia running shoes as her hiking boots were too small and caused her toenails to go black and blue. She was up at 3:30am that first morning that she slept opposite me!...horrors.. She was always up early and I passed her sometime most days. She spent many hours walking quite slowly. When I never saw her for a few weeks, I assumed that she had slowed down a bit. But oh no, she was just at different refugios and not all that far from where I was. By now she had posted Betsy on as that caused her pulling arm to go black and blue. I asked her what the camino meant to her or what she had learned. She thought for a few seconds and then responded that on the camino you enjoy acquaintances and then let them go. I found that pretty thoughtful and inciteful - at least it kept me thinking for awhile... And most people had not really warmed to her.... and she was also fluent in Spanish. By the way, most propietors of the restaurants and coffee shops did not speak English.

In summary there is an intensity of living for me when I travel. On this trip, I was able to feel a lot and to feel grateful for so much every day. I am thankful that my life has been so wonderful so far. I enjoyed my own company so much. I am also proud of this accomplishment. I didn't realize at the beginning that it was going to be this physically demanding. I learned that packing light is important and that I may be strong but not that strong. My body probably needed a rest well before the end but it worked well and it felt strong and healthy. In fact, I no longer had to do yoga every day or even stretch very much. The muscles gradually learned and stretched, I guess. I enjoyed the process of walking more and more as time went on or rather I became less anxious to get to the refugio. Mind you, in Galacia there was not the same pressure on the refugios. I think that I also slowed down. The pack was comfortable and I liked my pace whatever it was.
I recognized only a month or so before I left home that after walking I feel relaxed. I had never noticed this before. We, or those I run with, have always recognized the relaxation and satisfaction after a run. It surprised me that when I paid attention some of that same feeling was there after a walk. As a kid I loved skiing because I could think of nothing else when I did it. I still love it when I am totally focused on it and my concentration is not elsewhere. It is not as much fun if I don't give it 100% of my attention. I always enjoyed the relaxation after a day of intense effort whether it was skiing or biking or hiking.

I did 'my camino' and I heard quite a few times the expression 'this is my camino'. Usually people trying to work out whether they were doing it their way or compromising and how much compromise they wanted.
...a few more people that I met...Voltrade, the German lady living in Denmark. We just connected even though we didn't spend all that much time together. She was with a Danish friend and they were having a wonderful time - probably the first time without their husbands. She was grateful that the camera she lost one day was mailed to her home in Denmark through giving her address to someone else on the trail. The wonders of the camino.
Michele, the German gal who walked for 35 days with someone she met even though she wanted to be alone because she didn't know how to tell this person that she wanted to be alone. Finally she just walked faster rather than confronting with her feelings. She was recognizing that she probably needed to learn to be more assertive. She was walking looking for faith and hoping to resolve issues about the possibility of marriage and the contentious issue of who wanted and who does not want children. Difficult issues for anyone.
Luce, the divorced French Canadian grandma whom I met at the airport going into town the first day. She was so warm and tried her English and I used my 16 words of French. She walked with a 'real' Frenchman - the beret cap, big belly. They enjoyed several weeks of walking together. He went back to his wife and family. She said that maybe he used to be like her husband but maybe he had improved now. They had a sense of comraderie. And of course, we often greeted in the street when we ran into each other. They were usually a bit ahead of me. I felt a sense of loss when he caught the train home about 1.5weeks before the end.
Joseanne, a wonderful 25 year old French Canadian - lots of French Canadians, a real sweetie. She and Luce were going to meet up again and walk to the coast, a 4 day journey. Joseanne liked the Italian fellow who had taken his mother walking and they got way ahead by taking the bus. She remained true to her camino walk and kept on walking... maybe they will meet again.
Brian the Australian who raced ahead every day and left his wife and her friend with the sprained ankle to walk at their own pace. Brian never acknowledged anyone or spoke with anyone. One day his wife asked if he could carry a few things for her injured friend and he said no. I asked the friend one day how her walk was and she was unhappy with the choice they had made that day. Another day the wife let off steam about how unhappy and compromising all of this was. What an unhappy trio but dammit they were going to all complete the camino come hell or high water. What ugly memories they will have - such torment, such lack of communication.
Mike and Margaret from Kamloops though he says South Africa. I laugh - he hasn't been there for 30 years! And then he says well I live in Vancouver...oh really I live in Calgary and you have MEC stuff (the way to identify Canadians) anyways it worked for him. They were pleasant and always first to the refugio when I saw them. He was the talker and she watched.
So many people....so many stories....short and long....so many things just to observe...

Day 33 Aruza 25.5km approx.
A great leisurely start to my day! Today was Sunday and I was visiting Malide in the morning. To celebrate Corpus Christi the flower petals and leaves were set out in the square in the shape of coats of arms. I saw the octupi being boiled in big vats in a restaurant, I ate the best raisin bun from the market and bought lots of fruit. My mind was pretty empty as I sort of summarized my thoughts yesterday.
I went right into the centre of town and found a brand new alburgue. I was recommended to a great little restaurant and I enjoyed calamari to start and lamb for the main course and of course red wine. I sat alone and enjoyed. In the towns it is harder to meet other peregrinos. I was happy, satisfied and relaxed.

Day 34 Arco 22km.
Today I am getting closer to the end. My choices are to stop in Arco and have 20 km tomorrow to meet Clive in Santiago or to carry on another 16 km approx and stay on the outskirts of Santiago in an albergue with 800 beds said to be quite 'military style'! Nothing in between so either a short day or a very long day. I had even considered walking all the way and having my backpack transported. But then I needed to find someone to ask and a phone and ...ah I would just walk and then decide. When I got to Arco it was around noon so I had lots of time. I decided that I would enjoy today here and not get really tired doing the extra distance. Besides that would mean mentally finishing a day earlier and I really wanted to enjoy the last evening and the walk in to Santiago, not just putting one foot in front of the other. I stayed at the new albergue though it had a few shortcomings - no kitchen (not for me but others), no sitting area (in the rainy regions this is helpful), showers that needed the temperatures upped..but it was clean and I was ready to enjoy every last moment.
As usual, I wanted a nice meal. I learned that there was a place back about 800m. I asked a few people if they wanted to join me in a great lunch and they all said that it was too far to walk. Not for me and food! So off I went alone. I ate at Bar Casa Rural o Acoviro, a small hotel (I would love to stay here) run by a young couple. The small dining room, the white table linen, the great service, great food, great ambiance. I enjoyed. Because I couldn't have the shellfish starters they made the best mushroom omelette I have ever tasted with a small grilled fish steak on the side, veal shank for mains (like 2 main courses but hey) and this cottagey-cheesy yogurty stuff with raspberry sauce all homemade and a bottle of wine (I only drank half in case you are concerned). It was wonderful way to savour my last afternoon on the camino - going out in style. I chatted with a small tour group for a bit - English speakers all 6 of them from all different countries. One could speak Spanish so they enlisted her help to tell me what was on the menu, etc. As is so often the case, people come out of the woodwork to help you with the language barriers. I was so glad that I was not on the tour!! all so predictable. Heck, today was a total surprise to me even as it was happening! Needless to say, I did not eat again today and missed the cafes in town.
By the way, I was again glad that I was walking alone as I could work out things at the last possible moment without reporting my plan or lack of a plan to anyone. I did see Alison and Helen in a coffee shop just before I checked into the Arco albergue. They had decided that they were bored and would walk to the outskirts of Santiago. I knew that if I had been with them that I would have probably gone along with their decision. Talking to them did not dissuade me at all, in fact I was really liking my decision though I did not know yet that I was about to have an amazing afternoon. I was also grateful that I was not in their frame of mind.

Day 35 Santiago 20.5km
It was a rather sleepless night for me. That always means something is going on in my mind. Yes, Clive is coming today and today is the last day of this experience. This albergue had a tree in the middle with a big 10footx10foot box around it. Light was shining on it, in it whatever it lit up a whole section of the room. Someone's phone kept on ringing. I was used to and expected snoring but not this. So I got up at 6:30am and quietly walked out. It was pitch black and when I got through town I found the trail. It was even darker as it was through tall trees. Initially I was unsure of my footing but it was straight forward. I got into quite a fast march and imperceptably morning and light came. After 10 or so km I had coffee in a hotel and met the French ladies again. Then I marched into Santiago. Alison and Helen were having coffee watching for me to come through. I thought they were pretty optomistic with their waiting as I had left so early in the morning.

The rest of the day I wrote about earlier.

Clive and I then enjoyed buses and trains, food and wine, beaches and wandering around Portugal. It got busier as we went further south and the Algarve is totally built up.

Then it was off to Bristol where we had a wonderful time spending time with family. We are getting to know the kids and enjoy seeing them as they and their families are growing up.