Nov. 22, 2007 Home from Africa

Before I settle back into 'real life', I want to write a few words about South Africa. Now we went there mainly because it was at the end of a journey so very far away. With a little information and encouragement from Shelagh we extended our stay in the Cape region to a full 12 days. This was a great decision - it should have been a week longer (or a month - but then we really would start to miss home - and reality and winter and friends most of all!) Anyways if you have not travelled a lot this is a great starting region and if you have travelled it is a great region as well. We loved our 'sheltered' two weeks in the Cape region.

The food is great, the wine is great - and cheap, the accommodation is excellent (even the budget and backpacker is super), the scenery spectacular - the raging Atlantic breakers, the mountains, the vinyards and arid interior, the interesting plants and trees and beautiful flowers, the beautiful color and formation of the rocks, the up and down nature of the small 'mountainous' passes. It all combines for a wonderful holiday destination and good weather tops it off. We had warm and sunny weather most of the time though a few rainy days. We went from gortex to short sleeves. Weather is so important when thinking of holidays - since so much of the time is spent in the great outdoors.

South Africa has made huge strides since the end of apartheid. However there are lots of obstacles and problems to surmount including unemployment corruption, 500 police officers dead this year, housing and integration (the townships may be improving but people prefer to live where they have always lived and would appear to make improvements there rather than move. This means blacks are quite far from the centre, colored in another areas, Indians another and whites in the prime areas), education and training and opportunities for more people. Entreprenurial skills seem to be a definite asset here. Vigilance and care as to where and when you go are a forgone conclusion. The people that we met (mostly white people running the restaurants and hotels) seemed positive about South Africa and could not remember or seemed to erase the past misdeeds of the country from the present conversation. Of course, they appeared open-minded but then of course we never met the other people whom we sometimes heard about with their racist attitudes. We did hear several times that the unskilled black South African is a poor worker with a poor attitude compared to the thousands of refugees from Zimbabwe and the Congo. South Africa seems to be letting in all of these refugees. We even met a black with a good business (our tour guide to the township) that was concerned about the opportunities that some of these immigrating people had found instead of the black South African. I must say that there seemed to be openness and lots of criticism in the newspaper. South Africa has huge social issues but there is evidence that they are trying. We need to remember that we visited the extreme south where lots of wealthy whites live. 85% of the population of South Africa is black and 15% white, approximately. We also saw blacks and whites and others working the same jobs in the grocery stores and gas stations. Usually the restaurants and small guest houses were owned and managed by whites but the staff was mixed. We saw huge changes from 25 years ago when we visited for a short holiday.
(In Zambia we also saw lots of changes. The blacks were much more confident and doing quite well economically. We were not given preferential treatment or noticed like we were 25 years ago.)
So I hope that we will go back to South Africa and see another portion but still include the Cape and surrounding area for a return visit. Highly recommended! and then add a game reserve or two!

Nov. 6, 2007 CapeTown

Reached Cape Town after a wonderful trip. The part south from Swapkopmund was less busy and spectacular than the animal life in Namibia, but great scenery and interesting places on the way. Very easy to travel in Namibia - great camp sites, very well equipped and usually in beautiful places. Nice to be sleeping in a bed though tonight and not to have to cook!

We have passed well out of the tropics now and it is a lot cooler - have to wear sweaters in the evening! Cape Town is a beautiful looking city lying on the coast between the sea and Table Mountain. Soth Africa is very much different from our last visit here - a very multi racial society now, but struggling with crime.

Oct. 30, 2007 Swakopmund, Namibia

Well, we are back into civilization that is a smallish seaside German town on the Atlantic coast of Namibia. It is misty and coolish here compared to extremely hot only l km. inland. We are enjoying a couple of good restaurants here. It is a nice touristy town.

We have had our ups and downs on this camping trip for the past 2 weeks. The game viewing in Etosha was amazing - like absolutely amazing. We saw lions on a rhino kill - as our guide says that has never been documented before on film. We saw rhinos at night at the waterhole -5 - and one breaking a tree up, we watched an elephant break a couple of trees from only a few feet away, we watched lions just outside the vehicle and we watched the story unfold of lions watching the waterhole and how the giraffe listens into the wind and is alerted, how the zebra move back and forth quickly in fear and the springbok that is very skittish - all trying to drink and becoming aware of the lions in the background. Another evening saw a lion scared off by a rhino and the giraffe watching carefully. So interesting to see the interaction between the species. We saw great wildlife in Kenya but not the concentration and interaction that we saw here. And of course birds, interesting landscape features and interesting plants.

Our guide has not done his job to our satisfaction. He is very moody and somedays he is silent and controlling- makes decisions and goes who knows where. He also has no idea how to cook or shop so we feel like we are on tour - the 4 of us - with a driver. So 2 days ago after discussing from the beginning our concerns and he just getting worse we called the office in Cape Town. He seems a lot better and he has been given some instructions re communication and cooking. So hopefully the attitude will be good all of the time not just on certain days - like the days of superb game viewing.

We are off quad biking for an hour now in the dunes and tomorrow it back on the road further south into the desert.

This has been some of the most spectacular stuff that we have ever seen, since leaving Zambia!

Oct. 16 Livingstone, Zambia

We are doing well. It is roasting here - just like every october in zambia. We had a great train journey, ok bus ride and spent today viewing the rock and gorge and saw a couple of kids kayaking. The flow is minimal at this time of year so instead of falls it is rock formations. Reminded us a little of Western australia.

Saw where we lived in kabwe, where jenny and andrew were born and where dad worked. Certainly a trip down memory lane. Kabwe and Zambia generally have progressed so much and things in Kabwe look great. Food is available, a new generation has emerged, the roads are great and everything looked freshly painted and pretty tidy. Dad was really touched by the train journey - and I really enjoyed it. Dad loved looking at the bridges and the length of the train as it went around corners. Today as we walked we felt the dry parched earth and the intense heat of the hot African sun. We saw an elephant beside the road as we were in a taxi away from the falls! Monkeys were a problem at lunch at the restaurant - had to close the windows to keep the monkeys at bay. We were the only ones having lunch at the hotel - it is pretty hot and pretty off-season right now.

The house in Kabwe - the yard was so big - I knew that it was large but it appeared gigantic now. The pool is derelict and the garden has vegetables and the back chickens. The hospital looked clean and lots of staff and not too many patients on the day that we visited. Dad's worksite has been sold off and now they produce cotton bales there. Dad thought that was a great way to use the large space. I guess that the distribution system was actually a result of the government taking a bigger hand in managing stuff and not allowing the Asians to do it all. The streets in Kabwe are so wide and so many large trees as you walk along. It felt great to revisit - just never imagined that it would be possible.

Oct. 11 2007 Zanzibar

We enjoyed the beaches and laid back atmosphere of the northern beaches of Zanzibar. However, the town that we started and ended in reminded us of the difficulties of our time in Morocco. The people can be great and I am sure if you were on a tour that you would have no idea of how persistent these people are to be of assistance to you. It makes it difficult to think and converse with each other as they keep nattering at you. However, we did get a ticket and the boat back to the mainland today! We had planned on coming tomorrow but it may be 'eid', the end of Ramadan for the Muslims and then the boats sail late or not at all. Information in the distant future like last week seems definite but then today noone knows if the boats will run tomorrow - and we need to catch our tain to Zambia. And the 'fast' boat of 100 minutes was 2.5 hours so it is a good thing that we caught it today. No squeezing things in, in the uncertainty here.

This is the third year that we have hit Ramadan! but on the beaches of Zanzibar we got great pizza in wood fire oven and lager beer called Kilimanjaro to washit down. In the evening our favorite was the Italian resort with top food (Italian and local) served to the discerning Italians by the Egyptian run hotel.

We snorkelled one day - pretty good - but just enjoyed the whole experience of a dhow - one of those canvas sails up on a wooden pole - great to see how they build and maintain these boats. - hand-drilled nail holes, hand-made nails, canvas sails and rope tying it together. Everything from boats to houses are made of wood, cement, thatch roofs and that's about it - some string and amazing ingenuity.

Enjoyed a little traditional music and dinner last night. Really enjoyed my black pepper tea. Choices included cinnamon, cardamon, ginger, masala in either teas or coffees. Lots of fresh fish as well.

So we are on time for our train tomorrow afternoon to go to Zambia.

Take care,

Oct. 17, 2007 Livingstone, Zambia

We enjoyed the beaches and laid back atmosphere of the northern beaches of Zanzibar. However, the town that we started and ended in reminded us of the difficulties of our time in Morocco. The people can be great and I am sure if you were on a tour that you would have no idea of how persistent these people are to be of assistance to you. It makes it difficult to think and converse with each other as they keep nattering at you. However, we did get a ticket and the boat back to the mainland today! We had planned on coming tomorrow but it may be 'eid', the end of Ramadan for the Muslims and then the boats sail late or not at all. Information in the distant future like last week seems definite but then today noone knows if the boats will run tomorrow - and we need to catch our tain to Zambia. And the 'fast' boat of 100 minutes was 2.5 hours so it is a good thing that we caught it today. No squeezing things in, in the uncertainty here.

This is the third year that we have hit Ramadan! but on the beaches of Zanzibar we got great pizza in wood fire oven and lager beer called Kilimanjaro to washit down. In the evening our favorite was the Italian resort with top food (Italian and local) served to the discerning Italians by the Egyptian run hotel.

We snorkelled one day - pretty good - but just enjoyed the whole experience of a dhow - one of those canvas sails up on a wooden pole - great to see how they build and maintain these boats. - hand-drilled nail holes, hand-made nails, canvas sails and rope tying it together. Everything from boats to houses are made of wood, cement, thatch roofs and that's about it - some string and amazing ingenuity.

Enjoyed a little traditional music and dinner last night. Really enjoyed my black pepper tea. Choices included cinnamon, cardamon, ginger, masala in either teas or coffees. Lots of fresh fish as well.

So we are on time for our train tomorrow afternoon to go to Zambia.

Take care,

Africa Oct. 5 2007

Hi all,

More exciting times as we just travelled through Kenya and Tanzania and got ourselves to the paradise of Zanzibar. We didn't manage to see much of Kilimanjero or Mt. Kenya on our way through as they were both mostly covered in cloud. I am sure that it clears up later in the day!

Zanzibar was a pleasant boat ride away from Dar es Salaam. India's touts didn't have a patch on these guys that greeted us at the pier. They are called papasi here and that means ticks. They were worse than we have ever seen. Guess that means that life is tough and employment difficult. So from the pedestrian tick, we switched to one in a taxi. We did find a hotel and are quite enjoying life here. After the first day or so - without suitcases and some recognition, life settles in and the people seem quite pleasant and friendly. Everyone pays everyone else in the tourist food chain - hope some of it gets down to the bottom. Even at the food stall the guy that ushers you in gets a tip from the propietor. The buses are cheap but of course, everything that you do or consume has a commission built in. So friends are definitely required to do business here - and the more the better.

Spent the morning trying to snorkel with the dolphins. It was a very interesting experience. they are totally wild and unhabituated. The little boat that we were in would spot them and we would try to get somewhere in front, jump out of the boat and try to swim with them. We got pretty close sometimes. I learned that they can swim quite quickly (it took most of my energy to keep up - considering the waves, etc.), they can change directions at any time, and they can swim quite deeply. We jumped in to chase them 5 times. At one point, I saw three playing in the water below me. I got pretty close a couple of times but not close enough to touch. It was exciting and I gained some appreciation for them. We followed them to the 'playground' where they apparently stay most of the day.

Tomorrow we are off to the north to do some snorkelling.

Stone Town here is an Arab town with all the tiny streets that form a maze. Great fun - though it needs a large dose of money and care to put the white coat on it and repair works.

Take care,

We'll continue to enjoy,

Oct. 2007 Nairobi, Kenya

Hi gang,

Well, we have just arrived back in Nairobi after 7 days on the safari trail. It was wonderful!! Enjoyed it all - well most of it - the roads definitely need major work and I practised like I thought one should sit on a horse! Guess that I should try a real horse next. Anyways, we were extremely pleased with the company that we selected for our safari. It was difficult to choose. Now I can give everybody my tips. We saw so many animals, different terrain (besides the bumps) and enjoyed the guide. He added a ton to the trip and he told his views on a few things besides animals because of course I was the one who chatted about stuff with him. Yes, he thinks that the current president will be reelected in December. He likes the free primary school - up to age 14, free health care and progress that is happening in the country. Female circumsion is on the decrease through education though we did see three girls who were pretty aggressive stopping our vehicle in the middle of nowhere for a bit of money and dancing on the road.

I learned today that of the 4million people in Nairobi, one million live in the slums.

Next year they are going to ban plastic bags in Kenya. The streets in Nairobi are "clean" - really dirty or grimy but no garbage and no cigarette butts. For the past 2 months there has been a clean up campaign and it is illegal to smoke on the street.

Back to the safari. There are animals everywhere. We saw lions playing (9 of them), a mom and 3 cubs, we watched a leopard, saw more kinds of deer and antelope than I ever knew existed. New kinds appeared everyday. Gradually a picture emerges of the link of all the animals and who eats whom and their numbers and hangouts. We looked at big and small birds, hippos, rhinos, flamingoes, giraffe, zebras and so on - and when interesting stuff happened all the minivans and land cruisers arrived. They contained the human animal. The drivers jockey for the best spot - we were so big and had a superb driver so we towered above and a little beyond. I guess in July and August there are even more of these vehicles.

Everyone loved our experience - the huge truck with drop down glass windows and a platform at the front to stick 4 or 5 of our heads out. The vehicle carries about 20 and we were 10. We were higher and bigger than all of the minivans around so that was superb. Highly recommend our viewing. Everyone mostly like to sit except me and the guide. I loved standing and having the wind blow on my face with a 360degree unobstructed view and a guide, to boot, beside me.

The group was great - brits, germans, belgium, american and israeli and us - to make a total of 10. Everyone enjoyed everyone else and the group gradually opened up --even the quiet ones.

A word about the food - definitely cater to the european or western palate - but then that seems true everywhere here. We had three meals each day - they carry exactly the right amount of food,serve fresh fruit and veg everyday and a good portion of protein at each meal. A pretty healthy diet. The chef even managed fresh pizza cooked over his charcoal fire - truly amazing - and a beautiful looking cake (tasted ugh) on the last night with icing saying I love Masa Mara (the park name).

so a great start to our holiday in East Africa. Tomorrow we are venturing off to Arusha - a 4 hour bus ride. No protection of a tour operator anymore. We have to fend off some of the touts - but then we got good practice in India. The bus leaves from across the street from our hotel. How handy! Such an easy start - or so we hope.

Take care,

susan and clive

Rocky Mountain High! 7 day backpack trip

written Aug. 19, 2007 about the trip from Aug.9-15

I want to write a little about the backpacking trip from last week... before I forget.

Wow, we did 85 or 90km with a pack from Sunshine village to Whistling Pass, Ball Pass, Floe Lake, Numa Pass, Tumbling Glacier, Wolverine Pass, a mountain ridge and finally out at the Paint Pots.

Georgina (we have done about 12 backpacking trips together through the years - skipped 2 when I went to Australia), her 19 year old daughter Jamie and myself went on this 7 day trip - the longest trip that we have done to date. It was wonderful - and the pack started to feel much better by about the fourth day. It is always hard on the ol' back every year - I now realize that I could train and that would help OR alternatively go on a long trip like this one. I do know how to stretch out my muscles from yoga so that is really helpful after each day.

Before I tell you about the trip I must boast that one day - the third day we did 23 km hiking with that "pig" the backpack on our backs and ended up with the final 2 km of switchbacks into Floe Lake. Did we feel like it was an accomplishment! We started at 9:00am and arrived at 7:30pm. We dried our tent out at the highway and picked up the rest of our food that we had left in a car. The walk was magnificent - up to Floe was through an area that had a forest fire 5 years ago so that left it nice and open. We passed through mountain meadows and flowers, through thick forest growth and wonderful open rock sections. All wonderful - each in its own way.

It feels so good to be out in nature - the simplicity, the beauty, the serenity and the opportunity to walk and really get a comfortable satisfying workout and constantly admiring the beauty and feeling the peace in all directions - the mountains, the sky, the ground beneath you and you out in the elements feeling the sun wind and sometimes the rain. We fit in so well - breathing so evenly on the uphill with a consistent plod and a rest every hour, leading with the heel as we go down hill, using our poles to help the legs and feel the whole body helping out. We did so well this year in the rain - we saw it come and go for the first two days. The footprint that we used for the tent was awesome - no damp bags in the morning. Cycling or boating gloves will be the answer to gloves in the backcountry - ours got wet or we kept them dry and used our bare fingers to undo the ropes - they prickled from the ice for 2 or 3 days.Then the only decisions to make are so simple - where to put the tent, get water, heat the dinner, put the food up in the bear hang. Everyone working together and everyone feeling so relaxed and content in the quietness of the mountain and natural world. Time just to try and soak it in - it becomes almost meditative after a few days.
It certainly helped in that we took exactly the right amount and kind of clothes and equipment. We were warm and dry all of the time without carrying extra stuff (weight). The food worked out exactly! And for the backpackers amongst you - again our amount of fuel required is still the same l bottle for 3 days for 3 people - two pots in the morning and two in the evening - main course and a drink. And one red onion for 7 days, 1 or 2 cucumbers, 1 or 2 red peppers, l kg of cheese, a sweet and salty bar every day, toasted almonds for snacks and to top off breakfast and sometimes dinner, a piece of dark chocolate after dinner each day. What more could you want...and so simple. Everything is boiled and the process if more important than the stuff! Next time we should add broth of some sort especially if it is cold out.

And we learned how to set up a tarp with a ridge line as the starting point. So put the rope between 2 trees (the ridge line) and then drape the tarp over and pull and tie to 4 tress. Presto - dry cooking.

We met Kate and her 4 friends hiking from Kananaskis to Jasper. They were about 9 or 10 days into the trip when we met them. They were doing great - everyone feeling good and working so well together. It was truly wonderful to spend an evening chatting with them and watching them do their stuff. Quite the routine ...and yes it still takes them 2 hours to get up and get ready to go each day ...so we are not really slow at all - just standard backpacking time.
We met 10 year old Cameron and his dad, Andy. They trained all winter last year carrying packs on the weekend. I thought that was great - then I saw that Dad had a 92 liter pack - 1.5 times bigger than mine. That was a real pig! And there diet - what do you think? - for 7 days dinosaur porridge for breakfast, ichiban for lunch, Kraft dinner for supper, 4 Mars bar between them each day and peach fuzzies to snack on. Bet that Cameron was happy!

Just for the statistics - we did the max of 23 km one day. Our minimum was 7km and everyday was wonderful - we enjoyed it all. One day we didn't move camp - stayed at Tumbling Glacier for 2 nights (we did that a few years ago and knew that is a good spot for 2 nights). On our 'rest' day we saw a wide open ridge and said that we would climb up there. It was a great decision - 360 views all along the ridge - unbelievable!!! - and of course strong winds on top - so jackets and pants, etc for lunch. It was also the first time that Georgina and I saw a ridge and went for it. In the past we have had others with us that have made that decision. We loved looking at all the cool rocks on the way up and down - we ambled along all the way seeing cool stuff near and far - and of course feeling the sun and the wind.

So would we do it again! You haven't read my thoughts unless you shout out yes. Next year we would like to go from Sunshine to Assiniboine spend a couple of nights there and possibly come out via Burstall. Does it sound interesting?

I am confident that I can do this for a few more years. I do remember being astounded when I knew someone who was 50 and did the West Coast Trail. Now that I am past 50, I know that it is possible! And Shelagh wants us to helicopter into Robson for her 60th - it will be mine too in 2 years.

I will send this long spiel that I really recorded for myself to a few chosen souls.

May you enjoy today and everyday in your special way.

Susan

Guatemala

Well, we are now in Guatemala! We crossed the border from Belize. We were told not to pay a fee to get into Gua., however the Customs official was charging $2. each (ludicrous such a small unofficial amount). I said that I would not pay and that I wanted a receipt. He said a receipt would take time and that I must see someone else in another line (having taken 15 minutes to get to the front of this line). So I said that he should give it to me and then another officer came and verified the charge. They then ignored me. I reached for my passport and they moved it out of my reach. ....so I gave up and paid! A Frenchman behind us, shouted and demanded to see officials - they let him through. How to take advantage of reasonable jobs!

Later as we got closer to our destination, we were told to get off our first class bus and hop onto a min-bus (we`ve done that before) to go the last couple of km. onto an island joined by a causeway to the mainland. So that was fine - I said that we needed a bank first (no banks on this island) and we had no currency. No problem, I`ll wait for you at the ATM. Fine. That was a 15 minute line as well - they are few and far between here (this one only allotted so much money per customer). ....strange I thought... I know that time is of little consequence here so...we got our money and he took us to the town. He was trying to sell us tours and transportation (like in so many places) and the pressure is always on. We insisted on finding our own hotel at our speed. Of course he waited and wanted to sell a tour for the next day. We checked a couple in town and they all seemed similar. So we bought from the guy - his office was on the mainland and closing for the day. He promised us coffee on our 3:30am sunrise tour to Tikal. He promised that we could take any bus back.

Suffice to say the sunrise was fantastic!! and walking in Tikal in the dark with night still there was very nice.

It wasn`t too long before we realized everyone was on the same tour - no coffee. Some had even been promised breakfast!

About this time we realized that it was part of the game to transfer us to the mini-bus. The mini-bus guy pays the big bus guy to tranfer passengars in the hope of selling tours, etc. to you. ....so a different way to do business. Everybody paying everybody else and everyone competing for all of the business. Tough for everyone, it seems. We did fine, had a great time but did not like the lying and deceit. The guy had even introduced us to `^our great English speaking guide^- never saw him again - and -ôur superior tour^^ -.,,,, guess this makes travel interesting and shows you how these poorer countries sometimes operate.

....maybe it happens at home too and in governments and so on - this is just what we saw here.

We enjoyed the sunrise in Tikal and then the boat ride down a river to the coast again. We are relaxing today before we head off to the city tomorrow and towards the place where Spanish lessons begin in earnest on Monday.

By the way, we enjoyed the beaches of Belize and the laid back atmosphere of Caye Caulker. Tulum in Mexico also had crystal clear waters and sunshine (and a few wonderful ruins with a seaview as well).

Jan 30, 2007 Valladolid, Mexico

Ole,

Having a great time yet again. Soaking up the sunshine in the tropical paradise on the Yucatan coast of Mexico. Crystal clear blue waters, breezes, relaxed attitude, lots of american and ´´American´type resorts here. We are loving the sea and the pace.

We spent a week at Sue´s time share and that was great - rather like a cruise - even the towels folded like swans and stuff on the beds every night. Then stretch classes on the beach, aquasize, meditation and so on. Very insulated but nevertheless, a wonderful time.

Then we went to Isla Mujeres which used to be a bit of a hippie haven. A great island with lots of casual restaurants, beautiful fine sand beaches and crystal clear waters. We have been snorkelling. The reef is not in great shape there, however we saw quite a few fish and enjoyed it. People say that there are less fish than some years but hey, I love it and it´s all good.

After a few days there, we started to travel today. Caught a second class bus to a Mexican colonial town and situated ourselves in a nice colonial hotel. Second class buses here are awesome - a little different than Indian standards - much to Clive´s relief.

Tomorrow we will get a bit of culture at some ruins and swim in a cenote (underground river with pools).