Morocco, Spain

England, Spain, Morocco 2003 , June 30 – August 13, 6.5 weeks


What to pack from our experience on this trip -
Tube for posters
1 jacket (that I never used) still a good idea bec. you never know
1 sweater that I liked and wore in air-conditioned places (the plane) and most days in Eng.- left in office during Spain trip
1 long sleeved quick dry shirt (takes up little space and only used in England)
2 short sleeve shirts – the light blue never came clean hand washing so I recommend darker colors
2 sleeveless tops – quick dry stuff takes up little space, and dries quickly – couldn’t wear in Morocco
2 pairs long pants – only really needed one
3 pairs shorts – one for running and one for daily use, the other seemed extra – I wore comfortable cotton that didn’t give wedgies or twist when walking with pockets that worked so I carried my change purse (with $20 cash in a fairly close fitting pocket)
3 pairs socks good for running or walking
4 pairs underwear
3 bras
1 swimsuit
1 long skirt would have been useful to change into each evening – cotton or other lightweight would be good, comfortable and still able to wear money pouch underneath
1 thin beach towel (hotels do not provide beach towels) thin for space and also quick drying
1 pair good walking runners
1 pair sandals – good for walking and showers – I usually wore both pairs each day as the soles of my feet got tired from all the pavement pounding
1 small suitcase
1 empty backpack – mostly empty
1 MEC purse – holds camera and travel guide book for day trips
1 internal waist pouch for passport, ATM card and emergency travellers cheques
1 Nalgene bottle
1 camel back – either to place in pack or use separately when on day trips
Pristine – didn’t last very long when you consume 10 liters of water between 2 in a day – always trying to drink lots of water – bought lots and made lots, always had full camel back, needed nalgene to fill camel back from sink (Pristine – the big drops get used twice as fast as the little ones – viscosity, I guess) –Put in a plastic bag – leaks cause things to bleach
1 knife to peel fruit, cut cheese
1 spoon for daily intake of yogurt (for keeping intestinal flora up, in these foreign places
soap and shampoo (rarely supplied)
toothpaste – 1-170 ml tube lasted Clive and I 6 weeks
contacts, solutions, eyeglasses, sunglasses
sunhat – I always attached it to my camelback when not wearing so that I would not lose
aspirns, sunscreen, small amount handcream (most countries to have a reasonably high humidity
sunlight soap for washing clothes, plug for sink in case sink does not have (we took a clothes line and pegs and never used, every hotel seemed to have 2 hangars)
camera, lots of film
garbage bag or plastic for use as a rain coat, if travelling in places where short downpours happen at regular frequency (not on this trip but on several others)

Tips that I need to remember

1. Minimize number of bags and loose items – I use one small suitcase and one backpack – it has my purse, camelback, camera, and travel book in it. When I am out for the day, I may leave the daypack in the room if everything fits into my purse. I can not look after a collection of packages – too easy to put down and forget or get distracted with and caught offguard.
2.The camelback is no weight on my back and allows me to drink constantly.
3.ATM is usually the best way to get money – we cashed a travellers cheque at the bank this time and did not ask the commission – 9 euros and there was not even a currency conversion – my bank (ATB) charges $3. On each withdrawal. Of course, charging is not a problem.
4.Carry valuables in a pouch inside your clothings and each cash in a reasonably safe place (?) – I carry a change purse in my shorts, sometimes I put it in my purse, Clive does not carry a wallet.- - in fact, when we were on a city bus in Morocco and distracted someone put there hand in Clive’s front pocket to attempt to get a wallet – nothing there – as usual you don’t see it and don’t realize it has happened or who did it, until just after and the mind seems to miss the details
5.Calling cards, using the Canada direct operator are usually still pretty expensive. Check plan and cost before leaving home – this time one plan charged $3 per minute and another $1.70 per minute so probably phone cards are the way to go.
6.Read the maps and places to stay before arriving somewhere. Consider phoning from the bus station – save some energy. We found that we thought the accommodation recommended was all over the city and it usually turned out to be in adjacent areas – not so far to walk. Don’t be afraid to check several places for accommodation and come back to the one that you prefer – I learned this from Margaret – she plunks her son down with the packs and a drink and she wanders the neighborhood until she finds what she is looking for (cost versus facilities and cleanliness). Don’t be embarassed, you are the buyer.
7.When people want to show you or lead you somewhere, remember they always get a commission – we usually get rid of them and say no thanks. Occasionally, we go the opposite direction or whatever to get rid of them or say that we already know the area. Money is their motivator more than being of assistance to you.
8.Before you get into a cab, make the driver is going to use the meter, otherwise predetermine a price. Often they do no like to use meters and when you get there, they may say that is the price per person and not for the ride. They have lots of lines. Usually, there is a licensing body and rules that they should follow. Watch where you are going and hopefully it is not in circles or the slowest way possible.
9.If you go to the beach and want to swim, one has to watch the stuff (a pain). In Morocco, 2 boys went swimming. They only left their t-shirt and sandals on the beach. Even they were gone from the deserted beach when they came back from swimming.
10.The hotel may have a safety box, if it is upscale enough – they may or may not charge a daily rate. If they have no safety box, they can give you an envelope and you record what is going into the envelope and then seal it. You then sign your name across the sticky part. This is great, especially if you are staying somewhere for several days or there is a beach or something and you want to carry fewer valuables.
11.I carry a small book with phone numbers, health care numbers, passport, traveller’s cheque numbers, etc. Sometimes I add numbers or names that I want to remember when I get to another town. It keeps all this stuff in one booklet.



Our Trip
First class flight to England – got this because we volunteered to stay behind on a full flight. There was space for everyone but the reward was first class travel. We lapped it up and enjoyed every minute of it. From being addressed by the term Mr or Mrs. Spragg…what kind of wine would you like, which appetizer, main course, dessert, individual or group movie and then a wonderful sleep on this big chairs that recline. I had 4 hours sleep (and missed being pampered then), felt like morning when I arrived in London – it was wonderful, fast track through immigration (made no difference but another perk of first class travel), tried to take advantage of the Air Canada elite lounge at Heathrow but it was closed (we were thinking shower – but I guess that there is no shower there anyways – time for the fine life).

England:

I ran every second day and find it easy to get lost remembering the way back at which corner. They all start to look alike. Yoga in the yard on alternate days. I was happy to visit and relax.
Dinner with the family at the steak house. Great company.Great location at the hole in the wall pub.
Enjoyed all of the people, strolling in the center of Bristol, fish and chips at Christmas steps, cycle ride to Bath, theater in Bath, pasty in Bath, street entertainment, harp and organ recital in the cathedral, walking the hills between Bath and Bristol
Would love a house and car exchange to England. Would love to see more theatre, travel some, walk some. It is expensive and I would hope for good weather. Otherwise, maybe other destinations make better sense. Could certainly relax in this area for a month.

Spain Part 1
Vauldelavilla
It was wonderful. I smile, kind of shiver and can not believe how many interesting people and what an incredibly awesome and intense time that we had. It was beyond any expectations that I could have had. The place where it really surpassed my expectations was the intensity with which I enjoyed all the people. I was not sure of how I would react to all this conversing. I knew that the setting, etc would be wonderful but my take on it was outstanding.
-The setting was beautiful in a different sort of way – the countryside was treed, but somewhat dry and hot. We watched the vultures every couple of days circling and consuming the carcesses that the farmers had left over a cliff. Interesting to watch the circling. Susan, a gal that had subbed for me in Calgary could identify males, females, youngsters, patterns, etc with her bird watching skills.
I either jogged down the hill and then along the flat to the sunshine every second morning and then back. It was good to have time alone –yes, I am saying this – because of all the intense conversing but by the end there were 3 other gals jogging some mornings – all wonderful people and so interesting – and of course younger. On the alternate days, during a spare hour I took cushions out onto our patio and did yoga in the privacy of my retreat. It felt like I was away at this wonderful stimulating spa….oooh it was sooo good.
Our room was cute – hot running water in this cute room with a short door and a building with the steps of several hundred years use. A little window to peak outside and great coolness inside, as it was pretty hot during the days here.
Dining was great – 3 dining rooms with varying degrees of intimacy – every meal we sat 2 anglos and 2 spaniards and the conversation was always interesting. Every meal we ended up with different people. Clive and I had intended talking together and comparing notes during our siesta every day but instead we slept and did not feel the need. We only ate at the same table about 3 times in the 10 days. So many permutations and combinations that stimulate different conversation. Due to the programme we knew more about the Spanairds and needed to squeeze in some time to find out about the Anglos. Lunch and dinner lasted from 1.5 – 2 hours and breakfast much shorter especially after the first few days. The dining room was a cacaphony of noise – I have no idea how the Spaniards understood anything with the noise level here. Breakfast was self serve, café (con leche), croissant (not like the French), fresh fruit, juice, cereal, toast, milk based stuff that we thought was yogurt (need to read labels if the goal if to have yogurt – which we did in Morocco). Lunch was at 2pm and was 3 courses and dinner the same at 9 pm.. Lots of simply fried fish or meat, lentil soups, good chewy bread, fresh fruit (or flan) for dessert. Short on vegetables. Could always have salad – iceberg lettuce and a couple of things like tomato, spanish onion and if lucky an olive.
Conversing one on one for 7 hours a day. Got a little tired towards the end – someone suggested 5 sessions a day would be better. The conversation was not difficult to maintain – the level of fluency varied with the individual – from totally fluent to those who had to work very hard. We learned that the Spanairds had difficulty with certain sounds such as v vulture was bulture, work, worth, word were all difficult words for them. Some of the younger anglos found that the ones with less english were too much effort for them. I enjoyed the one on one and wondered where the conversations would go after the first couple of hours. Some of the anglos liked to play games (permitted in the afternoons), some had booklets or topics of conversation from a book or magazine. I just went with what came up and it seemed to work. I had no agenda about teaching them the geography of North America or whatever. If they wanted we could touch on that – we didn’t so the others must have filled them up on that. The Spaniards started by conversing with me after Clive and they all loved to talk with Cive. “He knows so much and speaks so clearly.” Clive says that he enjoyed his time here – I know he did – but I am not sure that he would go again. I would!!!
We created evening entertainment from either giving little talks, creating games, doing scripted scenes and then finally an improv.
Our improv became the story of who stole the house wine from Vauldelavilla. This wine got bad rap from the leader who found it inferior and some of the Spaniards. The anglos played the story but seemed to totally enjoy the wine.and drank more than most of the Spanairds. We created 3 dining tables with conversations going on and while conversing one couple would steal a bottle of wine. In the end, the thieves rode the Vespa (a joke from another play in the week) with their coveted house wine.
Special entertainment – one night a flamenco guitar player and then everyone danced
Paella created in a pan about 4 feet in diameter
a Gaelician ceremony chasing out the demons from this high alcohol brewed concotion
a bus ride to Soria for the day and lunch at a great restaurant (ok food) but wonderful service, tablesetting, wine, company and so on. Not much doing in the village – the highlight was lunch. Ohyes, on the way we stopped and toured some remarkable ruins of a village that a had panoramic view of any invading tribes
in cars to visit dinosaur prints on the rocks in a village. Guided by a little old lady. Relaxing but not great for those Spaniards who paid their own way for English conversation.
Went for a walk to an abandoned village one morning.
The people: Most of the Spaniards were telecommunication engineers, all seemed pretty accomplished, motivated, bright, late 20 to late 30’ and a couple in their 40’s. Most worked for Vodaphone and were sent by the company. The cost was over 2,0000euros or over $3000 for the week. ¾ were male and the rest female.
Pilar and her boss Javier – Pilar with a fast track degree, family oriented, fun loving, fluent
Madhu and her boyfriend Rafi who spent their holidays here learning English – from frustration at the beginning to gaining more confidence in understanding. No reason to get married – she a journalist, he a marketing sales manager for Logitech – he loved Clive and they both likes us.
Javier – the one with difficulty with English
The international air route man difficulty with some sounds
The musician female who has so many talents
The librarian who struggled with English and loved to organize digital photos – people came to appreciate him through the week
Jesus, a bit roguish looking, again a gentleman (as they allwere) but whom a few anglos liked the look of
The one who wondered why we would do this for vacation and then we talked family, education, etc. He missed his family so much, drives a volvo and has a house on the south coast as well.
The anglos several in their mid or late 20, several in their 40’s and a couple (us included) in their 50’s, ¾ or mostly female
Nani 26 working for Coopers Price Waterhouse for nearly 5 years with proper private school etiquette but so glad to talk to me and with her frustrations of accomplishment in a job that she hates. Also jogs in the early morning and seems matronly looking after margaret. She will probably move to Spain in the next year and try other things.
Margaret, Nani’s responsibility, 24 university grad, hates business, ski racer at university, thought about music as a pursuit but settled on skiing. Worked as a waitress in Florida making money for this trip. No longer maintained by her parents. Loved talking to Susie because I suggested that she follow her dreams. Move to Lake Placid or England wherever the opportunities took her. She seemed to be looking for a boyfriend and fairly vulnerable. She would love to paddle and hike in the Rockies with Jenny. Wouldn’t be surprised is she came for a visit. ….You wonder why your own kids won’t converse with you and get defensive or angry and Margaret obviously loves her parents but can’t relate to them. Clive chuckles because we see our kids this way. I wonder how Jenny talked with the motherly Mom and Dad in Australia, how they socialized and so on. I guess that they weren’t related.
Number 3 going through life changes Nikki (Nickola at 27) leaving her sweet husband and nice life behind to find herself and live a more exciting life. She got a job in Greece teaching English after this.
Gary, going to university this fall to get his MBA and become an entrepenur.
Ellen, from upstate New York, big and loving bizarre clothes, trained as an adult vocational trained after a trying youth in the Bronx (a survivor). Loves life, living, youth, conversing, experiences, empathetic, interesting. Went on an intensive Spanish week after this and then to the beach on her own for a week. Her and hubby ran a pirate TV station for a couple of years from a hill in New York or Jersey with lots of fans. Quite the story.
Lynda, the long haired, hippie type, 50, wrinkle has done an exchange teaching job in Ireland and is now a grade 2 french immersion teacher in Owen Sound.
Nikki teacher’s aide from Red Deer and someone that I could travel with – a bit like me – interested in the people, she found it a bit intense and was considering whether her husband was too quiet for this
Vicky from mid US left 4 kids at home (2 permanent foster) and had stories. …Tatoo at top of leg that means “flirting with danger” spider, web, heart. “Loves to be touched” Spent 6 months with her 4 kids teaching English in China for $250 per month – the time of her life. Would do it again in a minute – or next time in Thailand. I need to check out this company.
Heather from San Luis Ibispo – working and teaching a class that this group should go to college but the background of these kids is socially disadvantaged. Should share Home Ec. Curriculum material. Called Tony from the restaurant in Soria and told him that she loved him. Told us that she would marry him. Ohh, the fun of cell phones and wine. She put her digital photos on a laptop.
Susan Torn, the chemist and gal who substitute taught for me one day last year. The birder who maintains a bunch of birdhouses south of Calgary for a birding society. Travels with great binocs though not her best.

General Spanish observations:
- Prosperous
every second shop is a shoe shop – great fashions, not such great prices
coffee is always espresso
baked goods not great, ice cream – not usually great
water is fine to drink from tap
wine – they place a bottle on your table and have as much or as little as you wish
Spanairds always half fill the wine glass and they do not feel compelled to finish their glass of drink or the bottle on the table
All drinks are about the same price – alcohol, coke, water
Cokes come in 6 ounce bottles and beer is not much more
Got tired of inferior croissants so switch to tostado, a fairly dense toast and put jam on it
Tapas are ¼ portions, Raciones are ½ portions and then there are full portions.
Often served a small snack with a beer – olives to small toast with fish
Buses, air conditioned, first class and half the price of the train. Good frequency
Dinner not before 9 pm. And entertainment starts between 10:30 and midnight.
Everything shuts up in the afternoon and we needed this time to stay out of the heat – a bit like split shift sleeping and eating. When dinner finishes at 10 or ll, one is not usually too hungry for breakfast but we managed it anyways.
Wow, fashions
Weight is not a concern
Bocadillo (sandwich) consists of a paper thin tasty piece or jambon or queso (cheese, very strong) and goo white bun – nothing else.
May put olive oil on bread but no butter, no sandwich condiments
Desserts are usually fresh fruit for the Spanish
The squares are busy in the evening and kids are up and about with parents
Meals are good, but not too exciting – huge protein portion, not so many vegetables
Olive oil and white vinegar on every table, No salt and no pepper
Olive oil – extra virgin is the first press. The numbers go from 1 to about 6. 1 is good for frying and the higher the number the stronger the flavour. The Spainairds prefer about 4 for salads (and can fry too) for flavour.
Countyside was not too interesting where we were – a bus was the way to go – relaxed, easy to arrange, hassle free and when we got to town we wanted to be in the old quarter anyways and got lots of walking on foot there. Parking would have been a major hassle.
We stayed out of English resorts so basically heard no English in our travels.
Metro stops in Mardid are only about a block apart

Our stops on our independent travels:

Toledo
caught the bus here – the let’s go give great low-down on buses
all the accommodation works out fine – in the book or not
medieval town – wonderful cathedral, city walls, sunsets, narrow streets
great lunch place in the cave – small rooms, first class – definitely a good tip from the book
great walking town

Granada
back to Madrid and on the bus to Granada
wonderful day touring the Alambra using audiophones – definitely recommend the am entry and we booked on the internet so no line-ups and then back in the evening to see the modern dance Flamenco dance ‘Yerma’ on stage at 10:45pm.
Wandered around the Islamic influenced old streets and had a couple of interesting lunches following the guidebook
Enjoyed the evening square spontaneous entertainment – the Frenchman conducting the choir and then the audience and then members of the audience taking over so that this special time would not end. All ages out late at night, everyone smiling and enjoying the music.- quite classical in style, I think

Tarifa
went to Tarifa – a small town at the southern most tip of Spain recommended by some of our Spanish friends – we did not want too many stops so thought about where we might like to go. This was easy to walk around and had beautiful, cool Atlantic water beaches. The only drawback is that there is no sun protection and it is mighty hot here.
Had a great evening with tapas and beer out on the street. Met a German family and chatted and enjoyed the comings and goings
This is Friday night and we are discussing the possibility of Morocco on Sunday or carrying on to Portugal. Hard to decide. Clive initially not too keen but then neither am I. Concerned about the potential hassles but somewhat curious about Morocco and we have heard that you should go if you get the opportunity. Neither one of us wants to be responsible for saying let’s go, in case it does not work out too well, I guess. So we leave the matter undecided and know that after Sunday it will not be a point to contemplate anymore.
Heard an English voice in the hotel - the first since last Sunday so we introduce ourselves and go on our ways. We do find out that they are going to Morocco tomorrow. Anyways, we go our way and they go theirs. We meet in the street and talk about the town for 10 minutes then go off again.
I wake up Sat morning and suggest to Clive that if we are going to Morocco, we should see if they (Margaret and her son Jordie from Duncan, BC) want company and what their plans are. So I knocked on their door and told them that if we went that we were considering Sunday but maybe we should go together. They were keen to have us join them and suggested if the travelling was difficult that we could always come back to spain. So with 2.5 hours to go before the boat sailed, we bought our ticket to Tangier and got some currency. We had decided to embark upon an adventure and anticipated that the ease and certainty of travelling in Spain and Portugal would be put on the back burner whilst we went on a travelling adventure.
Margaret was a great travelling companion and we learned a couple of things from her experience. I think that we all enjoyed having each other to absorb some of the difficulties and figure things out. Margaret and Jordie had spent a year travelling south east Asia so they had lots of experience – but never these tough, hustlers that these north Africans seem to be. Margaret and Jordie were great company – easy going but knew what they wanted. It was fun to have the conversation mix after a week of being on our own.

That was great too, as Clive and I seem to travel very well together. We have breakfast, usually relatively early and have a plan for the day that includes a siesta for the afternoon, sightseeing in the am, a meal of a lunch and then entertainment of some desciption in the evening with maybe taps, beer and whatever else is happening or else a long walk. We walked tons on this holiday – had to wear both my runners and great sandals, with socks, each day as my feet got pretty tired and always had a blister somewhere. Clive is the great map- reader for all these difficult streets, I tend to find the destinations and read about the entertainment. It seems that we each have a role and it works out well. We both try to select hotels and check on travel routes. Clive did not have much reading material and mine was lousy. It kept me busy reading guidebooks and I am surprised at how content Clive is ‘just being’. We certainly enjoyed each other on this trip – when in Vaudelavilla we managed to be separate most of the time and yet still enjoying the same experience. When alone we enjoyed being with each other. Everything seemed to work out great. We enjoyed walking, talking, seeing, eating, figuring out what and when to do, and generally just planning and not planning what to do next.

One seems to always be “on the defense” travelling in these North African countries so it is not as relaxing as other places. Poverty and the differences beteween wealth and poverty seem to stand out. Also I understand that health care is not great and social services not really in place.

Tangier
arrived in Tangier and met our first hassle – as expected. Got out of the port as the book suggested and then got a cab to the rail station. The cab driver agreed on a fare for the four of us. We clarified this and then hopped in (feeling a little frazzled as this was difficult). When we got to the train station and tried to pay, the cab driver got really angry and said that the agreed price was per person and not for all four of us. We knew from the guide book what the fare should be. So we had no small currency and supposed that we would get no change, so to appease our guilt Marg and I each paid a euro for the cab ride (twice what we had agreed on). He was mighty angry and left. His anger played on our minds – were we fair, what could we have done differently, why is he so angry, why is this so difficult, are we at the right train station (probably not), why are we so defensive and believe that we are being taken advantage of. – glad that we are four and that we are safe.
We buy train tickets for Fez – because I read that it is far more interesting than Rabat and we can then go to the coast on the way back for as long as we decide. As it turned out, Fez is probably the most difficult and aggressive spread out place that we had to deal with.
As we wait, we get a drink and relax at an outside café at the train station. Then we go on to the platform. We wonder why we missed the 1 pm train – did that driver take us to the wrong station? Oh, well 2 more hours before the train. As usual, I meet some people on the platform. They also believe that there is another train station but oh well, we are now ticketed for the train in another hour. Everyone seems a bit sceptical of advice, information, etc. A young couple here, suggests that we see them in Fez – they are travelling first class and we are going second class. Anyways, fun to chat. …We learn on our return trip from a Moroccan (to be trusted) that there is only this rail station and the old one in the center of town is no longer functioning.

Trip to Fez
Totally enjoying this 8 or so hour train journey. We start with the four of us in the compartment and the seats face each other. Before we leave, four more join us, so the compartment is full. We get to chatting and have a wonderful journey. The time flied by, we talk with each other and then with the others. A Moroccan girl has been to Tangier to write entrance exams for a tourism school Her brother-in-law has accompanied her. Another quieter girl has also written the test and some older non-English speaking lady has accompanied her. They suggest a hotel in Fez and maybe the beach at Rabat (or Sale). After two get off the train, we are left with the quieter two. We watched as these people warmed up to us as the hours passed.
Then some fluent English speaking guy sits down and talks to us. ….Isn’t it fortuitous that he works for the government travel bureau and can set us up with a guide for tomorrow, Sunday morning so we do not have to look for one (and the guidebook says that they are closed Sunday). He can arrange it all because he has to drop some papers off at the office tonight so that will be no trouble. We ask about hotels and he gives us some tips. We can’t believe our luck because the journey has been so much fun so far and a relief from the taxi driver. He agrees or reminds us that gov’t guides are identified and we give him a slip of paper with our names on, so that we can identify the guide at the post office in the morning (turns out if was deserted)…………

Next day in Fez, we meet the guide. I start to ask about his badge but he mutters that it is Sunday and not necessary and goes on about the history. Before we know it, (we are getting sceptical or I am at this point, however…) we jump into 2 cabs and head to the medina (old city of narrow streets and walls). We pay the cab and start into the medina. We have a great walk – this guy says that he teaches history at school and does this for a summer job. After the first couple of minutes, the history evaporates and we are basically wandering little streets. Of course, these guys want you to buy a carpet (no pressure, of course, only anger if you do not purchase) – I will take you to factory to show you how they are made, …very good price. Of course, we know that these guys all get a commission if you buy.(20-25% of the sale price). This guide tries to smooth the waters with who ever might buy a carpet – (you need to buy for your wife, then to me, why doesn’t your husband buy for you, etc, etc, and being friendly with Margaret so that she does not become impatient). This guide is not starting to get hot and cold. Tries to be nice, but getting annoyed because we have not purchased a carpet. We cross the main market street occassionally in the medina but we do not actually realize this in this maze. When on this street, we each go to a different shop. He gets us off this street – because of course he only has arrangements for his commission with some of the shops. He clearly does not like our independence. So he quickly takes us out of the medina and says the tour is finished. He stands about 15 feet away from us. This turned out to take about 2.5 hours instead of the whole morning or the whole day. We pay him the rate for .5 day and no extra – we talked about tips, etc on the train to the guy that set us up and he said not. We paid $20 Canadian so only $10 or $12 for Clive and I. It wasn’t a large amount for us, but reasonably good for him – not as good as if we had bought the carpet though and not great if you are a swindler. We got to see some of the back streets of the medina, we realized this guy did not necessarily expect to get paid because he probably realized that we had figured him out. …..We laughed about our experience, how grateful we were that we were safe, had not lost everything, how after all our travelling that we could swallow a story like this hook, line, and sinker.
….we reviewed what had happened and what were the indicators that we were falling for this story.
We realized the con man on the train was in and out of the coach several times – he went out and made calls on his cell phone – we didn’t think anything of this at the time.
His fluent English and so willing to help should have been a tip-off.
He only entered the coach when there was space (the Moroccans that understood English had left)
He said that he was going to the office Saturday night to drop off papers
He told us to tell the hotel staff that we were familiar with Fez and would need no help booking tour guides – as they might want to help us and they are not to be trusted.
(He did not have too much good advice about hotels or prices).
His advice about getting a taxi was flawed – get one at the station and get the meter on would have been correct as some Moroccan woman tried to guide us but of course we had fallen for the story from the great English speaking guy. Go out to the taxi rank at the street – much harder to get a taxi, as we found out.
He said that he rode the train to work every day – like an hour or two each way – I doubt it, trying to dupe other tourists
…when we picked up the tour guide, he did not have his badge, he did not allow us to discuss our day but had to get us into the cab as quickly as possible

I hope that we learned something but these things do not always prepare you for the next con game. This was cheap, we were safe and we even about 2 other people to share it with. (In China, we heard the story of buying painting from art students in their gallery and Jim heard this story 20 years ago).

Arriving and being in Fez
Finding a hotel – the tout’s idea turned out to be very expensive. We looked into our Guide book and found a hotel – it is dark now and hard to navigate around these big fairly dark streets with poor maps and poor lighting. We find a hotel and we were thankful when Maragaret said that she felt uncomfortable there – no fan, toilet down the hall, dubious man at the desk. So we found the hotel that the Moroccan woman had advised to us. Margaret and Jordie got a cab but we ended up walking – a lot further than it really way as we navigated. This hotel was a wonderful refuge. Pool, air conditioning and very north American. We showered and had dinner (all alone) in the hotel dining room. Even had a bottle of wine – which we were soon to find out is only available at better restaurants. The food was ok but we were relieved and ready to relax in a comfortable setting after a long day of travel.

So after being duped by the guy on the train we thought that we would ask hotel staff for advice, so Margaret asked where a good authentic reasonable restaurant would be. We took a ‘short’ cab ride that ended up being very pretty seeing the city lights and the medina but it was the longest cab ride yet. When we arrived, we thought they were hustlers again until they said our name. They were from the restaurant. We went in to this palacial empty restaurant. We checked the price and found it to be 40 euros per person and the entertainment coming would be for us, the only customers. So we took a cab back and that was another story getting a second cab. We did not want to walk down the dark main road and could not find a cab easily. However, 20 minutes later and 25 meters up the hill at a large parking lot we managed to get a cab. Went back to town and met Marg and Jordie in a fairly upscale but ordinary tasting restaurant with entertainment and a couple of tables occupied. We laughed about our experiences in Morocco and wondered if we were learning or would leave soon.

To Marrakesh
Caught the bus to Marrakesh and it was a wonderful ride in an airconditioned coach with very little road traffic. Had a superb lunch of tajine and traditional bread at a bus depot in a beautiful little restaurant at the bus station. Amazing! The ride through the villages and mountains was amazing. We saw mountains, hills, flat parched countryside, olive orchards, water being piped above ground (for animals and land and kids to swim), camels, donkeys, hot villages, good paved roads, a crazy bus driver (sometimes).

Checked out hotels in Marrakesh – Margaret likes to be Jordie a drink, leave him in charge of the bags and look for a hotel. She is not afraid to say that she is checking hotels and will be back or not – as she believes at that minute. We wanted air-conditioning (that sort of works) because it is soooo hot here. We checked half a dozen hotels and chose one.

We enjoyed the market square, the snake charmers, henna arties, drumming, monkey and picture, berber and a photo, 65 or 70 fresh orange juice stands, the games, and general entertainment. The market radiated off into the medina here. We spent a little time in the market and saw the historical sites, as well as the gardens at a hotel in the nouvelle city. We walked lots in the morning and the evening. Had a fabulous meal and entertainment at on e of these palacial places. A truly memorable and wonderful evening. Too much chat though as we did not really concentrate on the music and so on. Still the best tajine yet, in a wondrful setting and great entertainment and good company.
Enjoyed the wood fired pizzas, the café con leche available at tables or in small shops. Drinking about 10 liters of water per day between the two of us.
So much stimulation to the senses here. I do like that when I travel. Smell, sight, sound, taste!
Marg and Jordie left a day before us. We finally made it to the market and spent another evening strolling the square.

Took a bus to Rabat
Missed the CTM bus so caught another bus. Looks great from the outside but not such good airconditioning from the inside. Got to Rabat and found a nice hotel. Caught a city bus and grand taxi to a beach down the coast (we found a hotel on the internet) It was full and the prices were double the internet and the beach was ok and crowded. So we caught the taxi and bus back to Rabat. Someone tried to pickpocet Clive. They had their hand in and out of Dad’s pocket before he knew and he could not figure out who did it. However there was nothing in his pocket – so safe yet once again.
Spent the evening in the medina – not very crafty but really set up for locals. Next day we checked out some historical sites and decided not to go looking for any beaches here – probably not too great reading the material and reviewing our information.
So we whipped down to the train station with our stuff (we usually had an idea of train and bus times fromwhen we came into town we usually checked exit times)and caught the train to Asailh.

Asailh
great accommodation with a pool and across the road from a wonderful beach (no umbrellas or trees) so no shade so we walked in the morning and late afternoon. The water was wonderful, cool and clean – so refreshing with small waves. Some females were totally covered and in the water.
The town had great little restaurants lots of seafood
The medina was clean and white and had a few little artsy stores
We walked beyond the medina along a coastal path (reminded me of coastal walking in Britain though a lot hotter and you have to be careful where you wander as this is a very different culture)
Days of relaxing, enjoying, being, walking, talking, seeing, eating. – 4 nights here – our downtime for the holiday. I managed to do yoga on the balcony on a blanket once each day. Pretty relaxed and healthy feeling holiday all along.

Took the train to Tangier
2 cabbies had stories and refused to turn on cab meters so we caught the city bus towards town. We actually walk a lot and are both happy to do so.
The bus driver (with his new bus) hit a tree and broke his huge wing mirror and kept on going.
Found a hotel and were again pretty careful after relaxing without hassles in Asailh.
Tangier reminded us of the hassles of the first days in Morocco but now we were glad to be going back to Spain where we could be more relaxed

Bus to Cadiz and could not find a hotel so continued on to Jerez de la Frontera, the place where sherry is bottled and aged. Tricky finding accommodation here as well – of course it is later in the day. A very pleasant town to wander in – visited Tio Pepe and saw the canned Flamenco show.

Bus to Seville for 3 days
enjoyed the local flamenco places – one was kind of touristy, the other fantastic (a bit like a folk club here) the entertainment starts at 11:30 or midnight. Split shift sleeping and late night eating.
Enjoyed the experience of the bullfight
Visited more Muslim fortresses and palaces – in great shape and a great day

Bus to Madrid
Organized a hotel near the airport for the last night – from the internet as we could not get the same rate phoning – 100 euros by phone and 60 by internet.
Finally got to the Prado at 3 in the afternoon – a great time there. We had stopped for lunch at a worker’s type place – 3 courses, wine and soda on the street – we were running out of time and had to make choices. Enjoyed the experience eating here, the Prado and finally felt that our holiday was ending and we were glad to go home.
Enjoyed all the times but neither of us was to anxious to tick off seeing ‘stuff’ or cities. The activities were important but we were not compelled to go more places or see more stuff.
Though we occasionally meet people, it is probably not the same as when you are young
We relaxed and enjoyed everything but did not have to see everything – it does repeat if you see too many of any one thing
This holiday seemed a good balance and gave Clive and I time to enjoy ourselves, each other and things together. That was very important. We travel well together and seem to enjoy each other’s company.
Though ready to come home, I am not anxious to look after the roof, the house painting, making meals and shopping.
I now find myself writing this content to be at home, enjoying the yard, the sun, my runs, yoga and catching up with my friends. I now look forward to going to Australia in only another 4 months.