Japan 2017 January 10-23

Barcelona, Hayley and Stu Wedding May 8-29, 2016

Bordeau to Marseille 1500 km Sept 26-Oct 26 2016

Highlights:
Using google maps to know where we are, to plot our route each.
Using wi-fi each night to find accommodation for the next night.
Using Michelin maps to find and calculate arrival for lunch specials for 2 or 3 course meals all spectacularly plated.
From lavender fields to vinyards, apple orchards, sunflower and corn fields (sometimes gone black), the canals, the mountains, the pretty rural towns that we could size up and sass out pretty quickly...cycled three hours in Aix-en-Provence.  Loved St. Remy as a town and of course great stay at a cottage.  The coastal area was gorgeous, Marseilles somewhat grungy but renewing itself (lots of immigrants and many km to get into town).
Bikes worked great...Liz had to work harder than I did.

Average 60 km per day...some more some less...usually 10 more than required distance because of meandering, etc.

Cool in the morning, warmer as the day went on.  Always be equipped for rain.  Torrential downpour one day and another couple of days in Bezier (anti Muslim town) due to rain.  One night with Amanda and family.

Cabot and Viking Trails June 6-27 2016 All about the wind

All about the wind...the Newfoundland part

This was a wonderful trip of Cabot and Viking Trails...quite a lot of advance planning...planning distances and accommodation...and the shuttle back to the airport...understanding that St. Anthony airport is 50km from St. Anthony and one shuttle goes from the airport south to Deer Lake.

The Cabot Trail weather was not always great...in fact a couple of very cloudy days (and some rain) however coming down the east side it did get better.  Managed to do a couple of very long days.

The Viking Trail was all about the wind....an amazing and wonderful experience.  More remote that Nova Scotia and no traffic to speak of.  We cycled North with the wind at our back and did over 100 km on each of three consecutive days.  One marvellous day of hiking in Gros Morne Park and the next day a short but very windy cycle ride.  I would say that I got blown off the road at one point,  steered off the road at one point and walked for quite a distance as I could not manage the wind.  What an amazing way to experience the force of the wind...days of it behind you and this day with it either against us or going sideways...sideways when I got blown off and walking when going straight into it.  Newfoundland is one friendly remote place and I really liked it.  The Cabot Trail seemed more touristy and nicer weather would have made it more memorable.  A couple of long days of cycling and good challenges.

The accommodations all worked out fabuously well and we enjoyed meeting some of the owners and sometimes the clients...I do like b&b's.

The fish was tasty and some of the menus rather plain.  Hard to get ingredients such as salad items in Nfld especially.  Fun the day that I got whitebait from the fishermen at the dock.  I wanted to buy it and it was spilling everywhere loading it for shipment to Boston. They gave me a plastic bag of fish to cook!  Of course Liz had her fill of lobster and crab on this trip.

Quirpon was a real highlight going out to this island to watch the icebergs in iceberg alley.  We enjoyed the old home with wonderful accommodation and comraderie and great meals.  We walked one end of the island to the other and back.  We watched the icebergs move, change position and our angle change as well.  We watched them from morning till night as the light changed.

  

St. Anthony was another highlight as we enjoyed the icebergs in the bay at sunset.  Our host was so excited about them that she insisted on driving us there to see them.  Incredible...and a wonderful walk down towards the water to get closer.  Two incredible experiences!  Wow...days to remember.

Sheppard's b&b was another special home...with singing by the host to wish a good day in the morning.

A better copy of the info below is in my mail program under Nfld/NS notes...from Liz

Nova Scotia Newfoundland June 6-27, 2916

Westjet, Arrive 1:3dpm,

Holes total about 2600.00. 60 1300.C0 each (I SGfimal&d Ouirpoon al 450.00 for the night)

June 6 (Monday)

35 -40 km Irarti airport to North Sydney

Chambers Cues! House (reu;. 04 King Street, central North Sydney

Cheryl is the owner. 602-704-7301.006-490-6453. Lost her hubby in 2002. House hull bl antiques. InAMA.

65.00 oil in, 2 beds, breakfast nd.;BH Pay by cash or cheque

AMAZING,

June 7(Tuesday)

50 km to Baddeck, Bad-deck Heritage House BnB. 121 Twining Street, 4 rooms (2 queens. 1 king]

LiZ and Dick .Walking distance from into, centre and nightly ceilidh.

40 hr. cancellation

115.00 plus tax = 102.00 (Bl)

Paid oh Paypal HHBE1085, 1577-6711 -7081 -1586 (pd March 12.) 902-295-0219. In AM A hook.

VERY1 GOOD

June 8 (Wed)

52 km to Margaree River,

Margaree Riverview Inn, up on a hill. 2 star only, looks dean hut-Simple, 1 ridge and collee maker. 21 045 Highway 16. 902-248-2940. 009-490-5151.

Conf. 4 630001446 (8471), Cancel before June 5?6 midnight

69.00pi u£ 1 7 % lax tor 2 d hi beds. approx. 72.00

No restaurant/food onsite but Thera is a Coop in Margaree Forks, right at the intersection/ lork. Booked March 12. In AM A book.

NOT Great but OK (Or the price.

June 9 (Thurs)

45 km to Cheticamp.

Auberge Bay wind Suites, 15299 Mam Street. 902-224-0900.4 star, 1 26.00 all in For a queen suite (wow), on the boardwalk, wMh a microwave and mini Irog.. queen bed and pullout sofa. Waterfront restaurant, pub fare, lighthouse.

Booked online with bbOLihg.CphV # 089473251(5075). In AM A book.

Ih Cheticamp is Velo Max Cycling Company i' we need any Supplies/advice. Excellent iron and location. Fabulous restaurant upstairs.

JunetO-11 (Fn. Sal)

76 km to Dmgwall/73 to Aspy Bay Dingwall population is 5500.

Markland Coastal Beach Cabins in Dingwall. (1-855-072-6048), Reservation #10876395. 002 Dingwall Road. Made March 3 tor 2 nights. Cueen bed and sofa bedftme bedroom cottage/

loghouse. Booked March 4. Logroom and continental breakfast, 125.CO >:2 nights plus lax = 293.00 {2 nights).

39% deposit at lime ol booking, gone For good so don't cancel. In AM A...

Incredible room and great restaurant lor dinner, breakFast good too.

Day trip north Oh the 11th: Dingwall to Meat Cove is 32 km (Didn't do this as we were absolutely pooped From the day before and the weather was precarious. J

June 12 (Sun)

54kTn to IngOnish Beach

Skyline Cabins, 37759 Cabot Trail. 302-265-2055lull cabins with a kitchenetle. Centrally located in the village.

119.00 plus tax (130.00) 'or a lridge and 2 dbI beds (not sure we have a kitchenette though. Irk AMA

Spoke to Doreen Burke

June 1 3 h Mon !■

91 km to Mew Harris/Boularderia area, slaying at Kelly's View Motel rigtil m New Harris

CANCELLED this and went back to North Sydney to slay with Cheryl Chambers again, a longer ride by 22 km bul worlh it to be sure lc catch the Ferry very serious about being there 2 hours in advance., 783 Hwy 105. 902-674-2473. 866-E79-79S7. 3 Start. In AMA. lOr 92.67 all in but no breaklasl. 2 double beds and a Cohee machine in room. Next morning we can Cycle 10r 22 km to lerry terminal and 15 km along the rbule we will Find a Tim's. The restaurant in New Harris
beside the hotel not one until 10:00am so no breaklasl possible there. As we cycle into New Harris we should possible grab dinner en rbule. The restaurant In NH closes at 3:00 pm
wonder IF that's the case on a Sunday and i' it's too early in the Season.

June 14 {Tuesday]

Noon lerry in Sydney. 6-8 hours On lerry to Fort Aua Basque. Paul Basque Hotel. 3 Ikm from the terminal .4 Star, 2 Grand Bay Road. 709-695-2171. Reservation #055211

94.99- plus lax (111 .OOJfor 2 dbl. beds on first floor, breaklast included (I think), but we leave posable too early next day anyways.

This hotel was Only OK but we arrived very late, Tim's across the street lor breaklasl the next morning. Restaurant closed by the lime we got there.

June 15 (Wed.)

Shuttle bus to Deer Lake 42.00 cash only, DHL Coastlines, leaves Irom Marine Atlantic at 8:00 am. Be there 20 minutes betOre at least. Arrives DL at 12:33 pm.

Deer Lake Co Wiltondale is 25 km. on Rle. 430. address is #2. 430 north.

Staying at CHd Lincoln Cabins (also called Bonne Bay Cottages], Bonne Bay Road and VT {Wiltondale). 1-308-453-2572, or 709^53-2572. White cabins with brOwn/red decks.

1 [T3.0O plus tan (128.00)IOr a ana- bedroom cabin, Luann.

Vtrv Cuts lull Cottages. Luann andCarter met in Barry ON a lew years ago. She is Iran tiara

Norris Faint, I hay holidayed here and laved 11 sa bough! the cabins. No rest. nearby sa we ate a biggar lunch in Dear Lake balara Cycling lhara.

June 1 6 (Thursday)

A sleep ul mbi'hill than glide on dawn into Rocky Harbour. 3B km.

Staying 2 nights with I Bashar s Nam (57) and Sue at Baltam Braak Callages

1 25.00 lor a 2 bedroom. Email Irani May 5. Great Cabins, lull kitchen. Fish market aut their driveway 10 the lelt so we cooked bath mg his seaload.

1-966-$22-2236

June 1 7 (Friday)

Hike CraS Marne was lha plan but the lop is claSad tar ptarmigan nesting until July1 st Sa

instead we went la the Lobster Cava Lighlhause site nearer town. There is construction an the roadway lor a Few kms on either Side OF RK, rough bumpy ride especially Iram RH la the CM hike. Another reason to not bother retracing Our steps la hike there., alsa weather was not great. The CM Discover Centre In near RH is a great place to slap Far into.

Bottom BraOk Cottages a 2nd night.

June 1 8 (Eat.)

Rocky Harbour la Caw's Head (47 km.) but the Ijord boat trip is en route.

Stay al J andJ BnB which is a Small house with 4 rooms just dawn the road.

We have la eat breakfast at the Shallow Bay Motel. I tiad dinner there and it was great. This is where we Oheck-in then head dawn the road to small house maybe 3 houses Iram hotel but w L’ have 2 seas lor 11C.0C. There s abr cl a y'ccery store in ttns I own Fv1os‘ lour busses come here Sa book ahead. There were 3 busses there the night we were there, there's a dinner
theatre that draws the crowd also ownedfrun by the hotel Sa that's why the draw plus there's not much else along Ihe road lor miles.

June 1 & (Sun)

■1C km to Daniel's Harbour. Stay at Enlenle Cardiale Inn with Annie and Paul.

We CANELLED this al noon that day as we road with tailwinds 10 them so quickly. They were very goad about it, no problem Or penality. The place is OH the highway a km or So but right ah the Ocean and absolutely beaulilul but no grocery stares nearby or restaurants. They do serve dinner there 10r about 22.CO a meal.

2 beds, ocean view with hearty breaklast lor 11 5.00- plus Lax. Great reviews. We are in a remote area so I took Annie's advice and requested dinner Far 22.00 each/no shelllisb Far Susan. I
cancelled Ihe Bennett House (105.00 all in)May B aS it had bad reviews, rtibre lor hunters.

June 20 (MonJ

61 km to Hawkes Bay. Slay at Ihe Torrent River Inn, 1 Bo water Drive, 709-243-5225.

Contirmation # 410. King bad Far 149.64 all In. Originally I had booked the 19th . then changed il(May&J to the 20th. Millie.

BASIC motel room. II did have a kitchen but nothing mare than a convenience store in town so it was useless.

The salad at Ihe Pizza Delight attached to the motel though was incredible.

NEXT day: Flowers Covb.

Wb are Hying with Che tailwinds, doing just over 1 CO km a day 10r now 2 and likely 3 days straight.

Called last minute to the only BnB mentioned on tho Viking trail.ca website balled French Island BnB. Harold and his wile Maggie, both retired teachers.

Very good value 04.00 with a great big brOaklast. Could see ihe lighthouse from the bedroom. There was only One restaurant in town on the highway witti again tons Ol fries so we asked H we COuld cook dinner and they ollered Id do it for us lor 12.00 each. It was basic be I very good and not deep-lned.

June 21 (Toes.)

ALL TH IS CANC E LLED AS WE WE RE C YCLING HO FAST

Shuttle day to Sr. Anthony's airport, expected t arrive about 0:00 pm. Cel driver to Call ( at

Plum'S Point approximately) Danny's taxi to meet us there and he will lake uS the last 50 km. to St. Anthony’S.

Staying at Lynne's BnB (70.00 I think, Susan washer main oonlaot initially, then we gave her my inlo in May) in SA 709-4 54-2677. We are also with her on the Z3rd.

INSTEAD: Called day belore and got last room at Hillsview BnB 12 km south ol L'anse aux Meadows.

Incredible place. Rooms lovely. BreaklaSt was just OK. CoOd restaurant just a shod walk down Ctie road whicti was good because 10 cycling back into de Criget was about 4 km up and down hills. We didn't realize the Bnb was quite that lar from town.

June 22 (Wed.}

B km. to Ouirpoh ("CarpOon" ^Island Lighthouse piok up point. We gel a boal/zodiaC (here to the island. They agreed to store Our OikeS before we Cross oh the boat, carrying Our panniers.
We Crossed over ar 10:30 when the returned lolhs from the night belore so had a Full 24 hours there. Great weather. We were luoky. Hiked Hie entire length Ot Ihe island. Icebergs out the
window and all around but not as big as were were about to see in St. A.

June 23-(Thursday]

3B- km to St. Anthony bul we tiad time to explore L'Anse aux Meadows (north 5 km. beyond where we catch the boat to Ouirpon. Stay at Lynne s BnB lor 70.00 with an amazing full
breaklasl. She rushed uS down the Street to See the 3 huge icebergs ion the bay incredible even lor the locals. Dinner at the end ol Chat streel/dead an, last building in the town called Lighthouse Cafe. I think. Very good.

June 24 (Friday)

Shuttle with Danny's shut He bus (35.00 each] to ST. Anthony airpod then another shuttle From St. Anthony airport to Norris Point (55.00 with bikes),then Ferry (8.00) al 12:30 to Bonne Bay/ WoOdy Point.

Stay r g 2 nights a: Blanchard House (112.00 all in with oreak'asl included) with Ivy Re c-

Cooper. She owns Crocker Cabins also but that 18km away and Ihe Granite Cotlee shop. BH is right in WP. can't Find ah actual address, pale greert 2 storey though. "Once in WP drive through 2nd slop sign, turn right, I am Ibe 5-6lh house nr the right. Parking in the rear.Cheokin alter

1 .Ruby is ihe housekeeper. Back door open i' not there". Call 451-3236.

June £5- (SlL]

Blanchard HOu£e again.

June 2G {Sunday)

Only 1-B km IrDfn Woody Point 14 Trout River.

Sheppard'4 BnB. 4 alar. V j,0C ground Floor, Bl , room 43 with a double and a twin not available unle£4 a cancellation.

1 Sheppard's Lane, a cape cod dark brown 2 storey with veranda. 45-1-7590. DOrit end Torrt Sheppard.

June£7 (Monday)

9:00 am shuttle bus {63krt1}to Deer Lake. Cornerbrook. Flight to Calgary.

Cuba November 2015

Cuba November 17- Dec.8, 2015

Flight to TO then Varadero 588.00 booked early July. Westjet. Plus, we had a 100.00 credit for

our bikes being a day late last year, so 488.00.

Arrived about 1:00pm. Took 1.5 hours to set ups bikes, change, eat a bit, purchase some

currency at 1.37-1,38. More than last year at 1.22.

Cycled to Matanzas about 25 km....(2 km. to highway, turn right towards Varadero for about 2

km. then left to access a secondary road to Matanzas. Stayed at same house as last time.

Parents of Hostal Azul. Azul was full again.

Met Linda and Philip from Whistler BC, cycling also. They had started with 3 days rain in

Varadero so we were lucky to miss that start.

Left around 9:00 from Matanzas and took a while to find enough water. HOT day. Made it to

Jibacoa. Tried an alternate route to get off the main highway but when we got to the end we

turned east instead of west by accident as we had gotten turned around while off-roading. We

thought we were on a different alternate route. Saw a sign for Matanzas 8 km and knew then

our mistake so crossed the highway and backtracked. Added about 10 km. at least to the day.

JIBACOA

JIBACOA

Very small. Saw 2-3 casas only. Breezes or Brisas hotel was about 240.00 CAD for both of us, .

Yikes. Susan had stayed there years ago. It was nice though. The Hotel Tropica was next ...70

CUC for both of us all inclusive but it was full. It would have been good we think and we kept

hearing about it from others that it was a good deal so perhaps another year, book it in advance.

Easily reached from Habana, in fact they offer a shuttle daily to and from Havana. Ended up

staying at Campismo Coco. Not great. Typical room. But no water until 6:00 pm. Dipped in the

dirty pool, Susan tried to swim in the sea but very rocky. Dinner (fish and rice) bearable.

Mosquitos galore or sand fleas, not sure. Beyond (west of there) there were only the occasional

casas so no choice unless we trusted a locals suggestion for one place she could get us in.

We are going to try to avoid Campismos from now on.

Left at 7:00 am for Habana. Thought we might stay in Guanabacoa (just east of Habana ) but it

was small town/dumpy. Had a ton of locals directing us to that town and then to Regla (a suburb

of Havana on the east side of the bay. Shouldn't asked for el centro de la ciudad as they send

you to the centre of the city they know best, ie. Regla. Should have stayed on the main road

(the Autopista even) and read signs to El Centro Habana. Added on too many sidestreets and

ended up in in the industrial port area. Long day. About 70 km. in all....should have been 58 at

most.

HABANA

Got to Habana and fortunately found water in Habana Vieja, We were both out.

All Lonely Planet sites full but saw a nice door and knocked. German Robert, Cuban wife/family

run casa called Habana Real. He is on Air BnB and has internet. 53-7-86-27-26-5. or cell 53-53-

07-02-01. email office@hostal-virtudes.com (all capitals?) or www.hostal-virtudes.com.

Virtudes means a gift like a talent.

30 CUC per night plus 10 for a good breakfast for both of us.

Great place for sure. Very clean. Helpful too. Stayed 3 nights. Met Ashley from BC.

On Virtudes, 2 blocks from Avenue de Italia, east on Central Park in El Centro, not Habana

Vieja. Great location. 15 minutes to walk to Habana Vieja.

Met Ashley from BC (historical research grant) and Katie, her friend.

Changed almost all our money money at Cadeca and got ripped off 20 CUC. Use banks from

now on and count it before you leave.

Dinner at Castropol on the Malecon, Italian excellent and not expensive. Pizzas great.

Day two we went to Mercado nearby for 4 big jugs of water, the Hop on Off bus for 5 CUC each.

Not much commentary but met interesting lady from San Diego. 1:45 hours. Get a ticket as you

leave if you want to to get on again. They don't give you one up front...up to you to remember.

Starting to see a scam on every corner.

Ate dinner and Gavita (the gypsy) near our casa. Spanish flare, I had great Caribbean lobster

for 12CUC, lots of veggies/salad too).

Walked around a bit, Stopped by a "nun" wanting to give us loose Cuban national change for a

CUC. Holy scammers.

Day 3 walked around old town with Ashley.

Went for a drink at Cafe Paris (expensive but nice), then a great lobster dinner (10.00 CUC) at a

restaurant Europa (big and pink, right on Obispa (main street in old town). Had music and

dancers. Great value.

Great place for sure. Very clean. Helpful too. Stayed 3 nights. Met Ashley from BC.

On Virtudes, 2 blocks from Avenue de Italia, east on Central Park in El Centro, not Habana

Vieja. Great location. 15 minutes to walk to Habana Vieja.

Met Ashley from BC (historical research grant) and Katie, her friend.

Changed almost all our money money at Cadeca and got ripped off 20 CUC. Use banks from

now on and count it before you leave.

Dinner at Castropol on the Malecon, Italian excellent and not expensive. Pizzas great.

Day two we went to Mercado nearby for 4 big jugs of water, the Hop on Off bus for 5 CUC each.

Not much commentary but met interesting lady from San Diego. 1:45 hours. Get a ticket as you

leave if you want to to get on again. They don't give you one up front...up to you to remember.

Starting to see a scam on every corner.

Ate dinner and Gavita (the gypsy) near our casa. Spanish flare, I had great Caribbean lobster

for 12CUC, lots of veggies/salad too).

Walked around a bit, Stopped by a "nun" wanting to give us loose Cuban national change for a

CUC. Holy scammers.

Day 3 walked around old town with Ashley.

Went for a drink at Cafe Paris (expensive but nice), then a great lobster dinner (10.00 CUC) at a

restaurant Europa (big and pink, right on Obispa (main street in old town). Had music and

dancers. Great value.

LAS TERRAZAS (almost, not quite).

Heading west to what we thought would be Las Terrazas ( the locals say Laterraza)

Left at 6:30, road the Malecon (Sunday am so wide open!) for about 5 km., at the small bay the

road turns inland and then very quickly(less than a block) take a right turn over a metal bridge

and then you are on the right road to head west. (highway 20 or 21 but the numbers are never

on signs. Ask for Carreterra Centro said Fernando( a guide with Explore that just happened to

be there and gave us the directions). This way you avoid the Autopista.

Watch for signs that lead you to Punta Bravo, Bauto,Caimito, Guanajay. Stopped there to watch

the kids performing in the main street. Then at the west side of this main park turn left, go out of

town towards Artemisa, but after you go over train tracks (big bridge) (less than 10 minutes) turn

right immediately. That puts you on the secondary road, you actually go under the Autopista

about 10 minutes down the road) ....BUT, be aware this road is very rough, even had to walk a

couple of times), but no traffic. The sign from there ( up on the Autopista) says 22 km to Las

Terrazas. We road past many farms, a small town called Rancho de Ave Maria, then about 4

km later we arrived in a town thinking it was Las Terrazas, but a man told us we had another 10

km to go unfortunately all uphill as LT is on a mountain.

We headed out (no choice and 5 minutes later saw some cyclists we had met earlier from

Holland sitting on a veranda (left side of the road) at Villa Juanita in a small town called El

Establo, La Pastora). It is not on the map. The place fortunately had another room for us. Great

find. We were already at 69 km., 4.5 hours of biking and it was 32 degrees, some clouds

though.

A huge downpour happened just after we arrived.

Dinner good and plenty, black bean soup even.

SOROA (very small town)

Only 3 km. to Las Terrazas (which is not a town but a national park where an old coffee

plantation now houses tourists. The Hotel Moka was the plantation home, not worth staying

there). The total ride to Soroa was very hilly. We had to push our bikes up 3-4 hills. 25 km only

though but we added on 2-3 with our Hotel Moka detour.

It started out misty then soon turned to rain. We were soaked by the time we arrived at Don

Agapito Casa 51-21-59, in Soroa (Yamillita in charge). Great casa, great location, near Orchid

Garden, waterfall, hikes, etc, but unfortunately it was raining.

Changed a flat tire just before town in the rain.

The Villa Soroa hotel that Brian stayed in was only 45 CUC with breakfast included but those

there were saying it was not great. They said the food was OK but rooms (small houses) spread

out all over and wet/old. We saw 2 bigs tour groups cycling from there so no wonder they were

full (80 rooms).

Disappointing fact... our casa last night (Casa Juanita) made reservation for us at a friend's

after telling us he had called our first 2 choices and they were full. We checked in on our #1

choice to be sure and she never even got the call and did have room.

Met Mark and Lizzy from UK on Ritual Tour but alone. Take a peak at the website. Modules you

might want to copy and do. Mark just diagnosed with Hugh's disease (thick blood so on Warfarin).

SAN DIEGO de LOS BANOS

4 hours to get there but we took our time. Actual riding time was 3 hours. 55 km. Very downhill

at first and most of the way in fact so made good time. From Sonoa headed SE to join the

Autopista (very little traffic, but boring). Got off at the turn for San Cristobal and went on the

Carreterra Central the rest of the way. Road in great condition and not much traffic also.

Very pretty countryside with lots of farms, crops of all kinds (sugar, corn, potatoes, etc).

Stopped about 8 km from San Diego at the road junction and bought a small pizza at a roadside

stand, (30 cents each in Cuban National)

Just before the turn for SD met Enrique who is a mechanic for Canbicuba. He road us into town,

gave us homemade mango juice and lots of advice. He was soon to be our companion for the

next 4 days with some plusses and minuses as a result.

Do not do the mountain route, too steep and rough road, he said. True?

Only 2 casas in San Diego so call ahead. We stayed at Cary and Julio, not great but very OK.

Enrique will list his when he gets a fridge ( for the the beef and lobster that only tourists can eat)

and an air conditioner in each room is a must to get a license.

VINALES

Did not take the mountain route as we were warned by Enrique the road is bad. It may have

been shorter by a bit but rougher conditions, he said. Check this fact with Brian. So, via the

Carreterra Central  we rode 65 km 3.5 hours flat and easy good ride.

easy, wind behind us and overcast most of the day (28 degrees or so, cooler than last year

overall so far). Near Pinar del Rio we turned right( north, I think) towards Vinales. The last 20

km was steep in parts. We never had to walk our bikes but it was a good workout. some

downhill too though.

Before you arrive in Vinales there is Los Jasmines Hotel, big and pink, where Brian stayed.

That's where the view of the valley is the best. Looks like a beautiful hotel, pool etc.

Just before that we bought a fresh coconut juice with pineapple and orange in it. Excellent.

Then all downhill for about 2 km. to town.

Vinales is full of casas. More than we have seen anywhere. Supposedly they have been all full

in recent days, with people having to sleep in Cantral Park... We had a reservation with

Enrique's ex sister in law, Olga (Olgita), 2 blocks off mail street. phone 48696718 . Cell (53)

54511374 olguita.amaro@nauta.cu. Excellent. Incredible breakfasts and dinners. Casa called

Olguita Amora.

Not sure that the "always full" message is true as we saw lots of casas with "Available" signs on

them.

Incredible dinner (lobster, chicken) and fabulous breakfast/coffee. 20 CUC only a night thanks to

Enrique. GREAT value.

I lined up for 45 minutes for an internet card, got to the front of the line almost and found out I

needed ID to buy so had to wait again for another 30 minutes. Met Belgians , Marcel and

Marianne and also the German girl who warned us to buy Viazul tickets well in advance as they

are overbooked. They are over selling so even with an advance ticket there might be an issue,

but she and others had to take a collectivo from Cienfuegos even getting to the station early in

the am.

There are lots of tourists in Vinales and it is only November. The infrastructure is not prepared

for this many people for sure.

Susan rode 4-5 km. out of town to see the painted rocks while I used the internet in Central Park

(wifi in Central Parks in both Habana and here, cards cost 2 CUC if bought directly from Etecsa.

Went to a trova for and hour after dinner.

Vinales (day 2).

Made a plan and reservations for many of the next few days as there is a risk of not getting

accommodation with all the tourists in this area.

Maria La Gordo Hotel says they can accommodate us as there are no Mexican groups booked

for the next few days, so we will head further down the peninsula.

Susan tried and failed to go horseback riding (horse couldn't be controlled unless it followed

others in a group), so she gave up. I walked town.

Listened to great Cuban music at El Colonial hotel (enrique took our tips to give the musicians

as they were dissing him as he was a Cuban in a tourist venue), then home for lobster again!

Vinales (day 3)

Up with the roosters and cycled 36 km return to the Cave called Santa Marca. We decided not

to go in but heard afterward we should have (10 CUC each). Instead of the cave we visited a

relative of Enrique's, 70 years old on a farm (coffee, bananas, avocados, guava, mangoes). His

coffee was amazing. This elderly man loved what Fidel had done for them in rural

Cuba....electricity, fridges, etc. but Enrique pointed out many homes on the way there that do

not have electricity yet. Angry that some are treated better than others.

PINAR DEL RIO

Rode 25 km. only but a good hill or two to get to Pinar. Enrique was with us. Tried to buy a tire

for Susan on the black market, what a house of stuff/junk. Stayed at Pension El Moro with Maria

and hubby. OK place but Maria seemed burnt out and a bit unfriendly. Upstairs (green house)

right opposite the bus terminal. She is fluent in English. 53-48-774335 or 53-48-770777. I think

email is karla0104@nauta.ca. I think that's her daughter.

Beautiful ride, so lush here, soil red like PEI. Tobacco, yucca, mananga (made chips form these

in Vinales, BIG leaves)

Walked the town. Festival so costumes on stilts, music, dancing etc.

SANDINO

Stayed at Villa Edilia (53) 4842384.. or 48423843 I think. Not at all much choice there. Grungy

town.

Rode from Pinar del Rio 77 km. in 4 hours. Flat, good road, and less traffic than any other day.

Only sunny less than an hour so a great day for a long distance. Detoured to find a tobacco

operation but it was closed for Sunday. No accommodation in Isabel Rubio (very small and

grungy). Only 2 casas supposedly in Sandino. Our seems very good. the proprietor was lovely

as was her daughter. Lots of stray dogs. Nothing at all in the town to see/do but it was about as

far as I could go in a day especially since the next for sure casa is 50 km. away. Sparce

pickings this far out.

MARIA LA GORDO

We actually stayed 14 km, short of Maria La Gorda in a village of only 90 people called La

Bajada. Right on the coast in a casa called Costa Salvaje with Pollo. Dimitri also owns a casa

there and his Mom is waiting at the edge of town to drag you there instead of Pollo's.

The ride took 2 3/4 hours for 50 km.

Wild Coast (Salvaje)Ocean Views with Jorge Louise (El Pollo)

53-5-278-6033

At first the rooms looked incredible, big, netting over the beds, nice sitting area looking out at

the ocean. But over the 4 days we saw a few problems. No electricity from 3 am until 6 pm.

When the fan went off in the night it was hot. The bathroom was a bit grungy, frog in there twice.

No place to put clothes except on the floor in our room. bugs etc.

Sand fleas were ravenous. We had to wear long pants and sleeves (hot) and still we got a ton of

bites that itched for several days. I went through a ton of benedryl.

Susan snorkeled right out front with Dimitri (a local) and promiscuous Mary (we had met her in

Vinales with Lamar).

Then the last day we realized Susan had more than sand flea (gegenes in Spanish) bites. She

had trails of bed bugs bites all over. Itchy and now a fear that we are bringing them home with

us. Ugh. I didn't get bitten but we both need to deal with treating our things when we get home.

Took a cab (bikes on the back trunk on a rack) for 60CUC from Maria la Gorda to Pinar del Rio

so we could catch the bus from there to Varadero. Saved us retracing our steps but in the end

we probably have biked as we were bored.

MARIA LA GORDO

We actually stayed 14 km, short of Maria La Gorda in a village of only 90 people called La

Bajada. Right on the coast in a casa called Costa Salvaje with Pollo. Dimitri also owns a casa

there and his Mom is waiting at the edge of town to drag you there instead of Pollo's.

The ride took 2 3/4 hours for 50 km.

Wild Coast (Salvaje)Ocean Views with Jorge Louise (El Pollo)

53-5-278-6033

At first the rooms looked incredible, big, netting over the beds, nice sitting area looking out at

the ocean. But over the 4 days we saw a few problems. No electricity from 3 am until 6 pm.

When the fan went off in the night it was hot. The bathroom was a bit grungy, frog in there twice.

No place to put clothes except on the floor in our room. bugs etc.

Sand fleas were ravenous. We had to wear long pants and sleeves (hot) and still we got a ton of

bites that itched for several days. I went through a ton of benedryl.

Susan snorkeled right out front with Dimitri (a local) and promiscuous Mary (we had met her in

Vinales with Lamar).

Then the last day we realized Susan had more than sand flea (gegenes in Spanish) bites. She

had trails of bed bugs bites all over. Itchy and now a fear that we are bringing them home with

us. Ugh. I didn't get bitten but we both need to deal with treating our things when we get home.

Took a cab (bikes on the back trunk on a rack) for 60CUC from Maria la Gorda to Pinar del Rio

so we could catch the bus from there to Varadero. Saved us retracing our steps but in the end

we probably should have biked as we were bored.

Did a nature tour with Abelito for 3 hours one day almost to San Antonio, biked to the main hotel

(not outstanding), got 2 flats, jellyfish in the water and some sand fleas.

also). Third full day was damp and rainy, everything was damp.Met a couple from Paris and

drove with them back to the hotel just for an outing.

Pollo our host was a nice guy, honest but not a great cook when it came to breakfast we did our

own (crackers instead of bread). His sister was living in Miami and had given him the 40-

50,000(he said) to start the casa. His son (24) was now in the US and this made him sad. Pollo

had been injured in the Angola war and had a deformed arm/hand as a result.

Must be hard to run a casa and get food etc, so far from a store (25km to Manuel Las). The kids

go to school there after Grade6.

Took several calls to make a reservation for Varadero from there and in the end when we got

there the place looked grungy so we biked around to find another.

Near Maria la Gordo

14 km. before.... La Bajada

Casa Costa Salvaje el Pollo

52-78-60-33 Moblie #)

Abelito gave us the info...a tour guide at the parque we met in Pinar.

also). Third full day was damp and rainy, everything was damp.Met a couple from Paris and

drove with them back to the hotel just for an outing.

Pollo our host was a nice guy, honest but not a great cook when it came to breakfast we did our

own (crackers instead of bread). His sister was living in Miami and had given him the 40-

50,000(he said) to start the casa. His son (24) was now in the US and this made him sad. Pollo

had been injured in the Angola war and had a deformed arm/hand as a result.

Must be hard to run a casa and get food etc, so far from a store (25km to Manuel Las). The kids

go to school there after Grade6.

Took several calls to make a reservation for Varadero from there and in the end when we got

there the place looked grungy so we biked around to find another.

Near Maria la Gordo

14 km. before.... La Bajada

Casa Costa Salvaje el Pollo

52-78-60-33 Moblie #)

Abelito gave us the info...a tour guide at the parque we met in Pinar.

PINAR DEL RIO (again)

for the afternoon.

This time stayed at:

Casa Colonial Gladys

Pinar del Rio 53-48-779698

Interesting lady (very devout Christian as she "had been saved from a fatal illness by a miracle".

OK place. The town was not so exciting this time as there was no weekend festival going on.

Went for a drink at the main hotel and ate both lunch and dinner at a new small restaurant that

supposedly had hamburgers (made of chorizo) and pizza. Great pizza and cheap as the prices

were in Cuban Nationals.

Next day Viazul bus from Pinar to Habana and Habana to Varadero. Bought the ticket in

advance in Vinales to be safe. The guy there told Susan to pay him extra for the bikes and she

did only to find out that he had no right to charge us from Habana to Varadero. So there was a

bit of confusion in Habana and we in the end had to pay again. Hard to trust them sometimes for

sure.

VARADERO, the town.

 

Small and quiet but comfortable. Rode the bikes around for an hour or so as many casas were

full. Our reservation didn't look great. Found another that was one small room but very new and

clean (Ana's) on 2nd Ave. Calle 15/16.

Daughter Brenda fluent in English works at Iberostar Hotel in the complaints department.

Learning German too. Ana and hubby both waiters in hotels.

Other room in this casa bigger, kitchen and lovely sitting room. It would have cost 40CUC. WE

paid 35 but the 5 extra would have been worth it.

35 is the going rate in Varadero versus 20-25 elsewhere.

Ate dinner at Nonna Tina (Italian). Good tortellini but a long wait.

Rode to the end of the peninsula the next day 16-17 km to the big fancy Marina Hotel. Met guys

from there who had paid 125.00 for an apartment but the all inclusive prices were very

expensive. What would you do there if not sail (big catamarans to rent.

Next checked out the Iberstar (met some Canadian from north of Edmonton) who really liked it.

Shows great, Food good. Lots of activities as there was rain for several days.

Next went into Brisas del Caribe where Ruth and I stayed. Canadians there not too happy.

Had pizza at local small place (Casa de Miel). Good. Ate there 3 times.

Second day woke up to torrential rain, power went out for an hour or so.

Late breakfast. Late am we were able to ride around the rest of Varadero (west part) towards

Punta Arena hotel . People disappointed in it. Food especially.

Started to ride to Cardenas but the rode was busy and puddly and the area was industrial so we

turned back.

Ate lunch then went to the beach. Overcast but not raining.

Last day, road to the airport (18km to the turnoff then another 2-3). Flight at 2:30. It did rain in

the night but we rode in overcast conditions. The rain started just as we boarded the plane. 

Careful at airport: The gal that checks you in wants to exchange a 20.00 Canadian bill for a

20.00 CUC. At 1.37 % exchange rate she made 7-8 CUC on that IF you go for it. Watched her

celebrate after the couple in front of us went for it.

Rum costs 5.20 CUC for large white bottle and 6.90 for large light gold 3 years aged.

The, the gal at the Duty Free magically adds wrong on her adding machine not once but twice

until I told her, then she wanted 1 CUC for the plastic bag. Eventually she took what I had and

let me pay less for the bag.

But, the guy that made cortados let me pay in Cuban Nationals and even charged less than he

should have.

DID not have to pay 25CUC exit fee this year. It has been discontinued

SUMMARY: Susan calculated we did just over 800 km in all. It felt like less than last year but

last year we didn't have an odometer.

More locals trying to cheat you on this side of the island, we guess because they are so

accustomed to tourists.

Be careful of CADECA money exchange. They counted out the money but shorted us 20 CUC.

Good at slight of hand. Go to a bank next time.

More rain and humidity this time for sure. The locals said there had been more rain than usual.

Perhaps try December next time.

Prices everywhere 20-25 CUC except Habana (30) and Varadero(35).

20CUC is about 27-28.00CUC so still a cheap holiday.

We changed 1000.00CAD each this time thinking it would be more expensive on this side of the

island. (last year 950.00). In the end we had 100CUC leftover, so still the holiday costs about

300.00CAD per week per person. Amazing.

Facts

 

Enrique said the cost of a CP per month is 150CUC to the gov't no matter where located so you

have to get several clients to even consider it.

The monthly fee to run a casa seems to change by province. We have heard 70-150CUC per

month.

Fridge for beef and lobster a must as only tourists can eat it. AC and hot water in every room

also a must.

The passport number must be recorded within 10 minutes of arriving or your license can be

terminated. 1500 CUC fine if you have s/o in your home w/o a license.

A mistake on the receipt can also cost you a fine.

Locals are not to befriend tourists too much/fine line.

Enrique runs a business of making mango, tomato or pineapple pulp but all the profits are

turned over to the gov't except 2%. He has a degree in food chemistry.

Mark said he was told the restorations in Habana were being paid for by China and the contract

went to a German company. Putin visited the country right after the US started lifting the

embargo.

Also he was told, that the Americans have block booked hotels for months in advance, though it

HAS been reconfirmed for us few times that they can't just come on their own yet. Cubans

though can go to US now IF they can afford it. But they cannot go elsewhere ( or at least not

anywhere yet as Enrique was invited to Spain to help out on a tour with a German group. He

could not get a visa. He blames his government but also the other governments.

Chinese made tour busses everywhere, cars too I think. There certainly are some new vehicles

on the road.

Tourism has gone up 50% in the last year and is expected to continue to rise. 2 million is usual,

this year 3 million supposedly.

The prostitutes in Habana were rounded up several years ago by Castro's orders, put in jail.

Enrique went with German man who wanted a girl and saw how it now worked (several years

later). The police (who are in bed with the government/corrupt, now get a street to control, they

are given, a gun, a motorcycle, a house and 2-3 girls to manage. He was a driver when he took

the German to the Lincoln Hotel area. He summoned a policeman over and the cop showed

him 3 photos of girl's, and booked a time for one of them to go to his hotel room.

Enrique's wife has worked for 35 years for a rice company as an "economist". Bet that's an

accountant because at the month's end, their balancing of numbers takes forever. She makes

sometimes 40 CUC a month (which is a lot) when the rice crop is doing well. Her salary and the

others in the business is dependent on the profits. She should retire in 4 years and will get a

pension of about 10 CUC a month.

The fridge they need for the casa to open it costs 600 CUC.

After the revolution electricity became the mode of power and every house was given a fridge.

The one they took away from him though was actually better but he wasn't allowed to keep it.

Enrique volunteered for years to build the Hotel we sat at, the hospital and the central park as

did others, btu they have never received anything in return for this work. In fact he could only

enter the hotel grounds because  could only enter the hotel grounds because